Adjusting Valves - CL175 !?!?!

J

Jfishsolevibe

Coast to Coast
Hey guys -

So, my Honda is having some valve issues... Im inclined to believe that an intermitent sticking of a valve, or the like has been my problem all along - so after having it running, and experience certain compression loss (rings have been replaced, compression is excellent when valves are closed) I am thinking I need to adjust all of my valves?

Ive gone in with a feeler and noted that they seem to be out of sync, and one of my exhaust valves is staying slightly open all the time... no good.

I have never done this kind of adjustment before, and my clymer manual SUCKS when it comes to the important details a first timer must know! ;)

Any advice? I considered taking her to a mechanic for time and agrevations sake, but I just couldnt do that now could I!!!??

Thanks as always guys!!

Fish
 
What size shim are you using? That caused me a little frustration at first. Do you have a tappet wrench?
 
What kind of valves does it have? Just the regular tappet and locknut? If so, get a tappet adjuster tool, set the engine to TDC (the clymer manual should tell you how to do this) start on the left cylinder, loosen the locknut around the tappet, and use the feeler gauge to get the clearance as you turn the tappet adjuster. Easiest way is to insert the feeler gauge, twist the tappet adjuster until you cant pull the gauge out anymore, back it off a bit, and then try the next biggest size gauge. It shouldnt want to go in. Use the tappet adjuster tool to hold the tappet while you tighten the locknut (ratcheting wrenches are awesome here, but a normal box wrench works fine). Recheck the clearance to make sure the adjuster didnt move while you tightened the locknut. Then move on to the next valve. Turn the engine 180 degrees, do the other valves.

The hardest parts are getting a feel for the clearances, and holding the tappet adjuster while you tighten up the locknut. The tappet adjuster tool is a BIG help. Before i got one, it used to take me about 30 minutes to an hour to do my valves, because id have to hold the tappet adjuster with pliers and it was hard to keep it steady. Now i can do the whole thing in 10-15 minutes, from valve cover off, to valve cover back on. I dont have a 175 but i have a 125 twin which is basically the same engine layout if i remember right.

You can order the tappet tools from motionpro, or, if you cant wait, do what i did and drive around to your local mechanics and beg them to sell you one out of their toolbox ;D I got 3 for 5 bucks from a local bike mechanic.
 
bobjohnson said:
What kind of valves does it have? Just the regular tappet and locknut? If so, get a tappet adjuster tool, set the engine to TDC (the clymer manual should tell you how to do this) start on the left cylinder, loosen the locknut around the tappet, and use the feeler gauge to get the clearance as you turn the tappet adjuster. Easiest way is to insert the feeler gauge, twist the tappet adjuster until you cant pull the gauge out anymore, back it off a bit, and then try the next biggest size gauge. It shouldnt want to go in. Use the tappet adjuster tool to hold the tappet while you tighten the locknut (ratcheting wrenches are awesome here, but a normal box wrench works fine). Recheck the clearance to make sure the adjuster didnt move while you tightened the locknut. Then move on to the next valve. Turn the engine 180 degrees, do the other valves.

The hardest parts are getting a feel for the clearances, and holding the tappet adjuster while you tighten up the locknut. The tappet adjuster tool is a BIG help. Before i got one, it used to take me about 30 minutes to an hour to do my valves, because id have to hold the tappet adjuster with pliers and it was hard to keep it steady. Now i can do the whole thing in 10-15 minutes, from valve cover off, to valve cover back on. I dont have a 175 but i have a 125 twin which is basically the same engine layout if i remember right.

You can order the tappet tools from motionpro, or, if you cant wait, do what i did and drive around to your local mechanics and beg them to sell you one out of their toolbox ;D I got 3 for 5 bucks from a local bike mechanic.
Click to expand...

That's all good and well but if you suspect that a valve is sticking open adjusting the tappets is not going to solve the problem. You need to do a compression / leak down test to check all is OK in the top end first of all.
 
as mountainsy says..do a compression test,,,,,,,as for a leak down,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,if you have the gauge.......go
 
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