Another Epoxy Paint Question (Tank and Seat)

[JPanichella]

I've searched and read the threads on epoxy rattlecan paint, but I have a few questions about my particular scenario when it comes to painting my tank and cowl.

The tank has a lot of bondo, and I saw a lot of people recommend no primer, just shoot it on, wait a week, wetsand, shoot again, wait a week and buff. With all this bondo, should I do a primer or just go at it? The other reason I wanted to do a primer is to see if I can catch any imperfections in the tank that'd be otherwise hard to see with all that bondo. So, any particular primer that works real well? Something to inhibit rust? Also, before primering I should rub her down with denatured alcohol, but will that hurt the bondo at all?

Also, it's getting real damn cold out here, so I was going to spray it in my schools spray booth, inside where it's warm. How long before I could transfer the tank back to my house for it to cure? I don't want to damage it, but I can't leave it in the spray booth for a week. So after a few hours could I bring it back without damaging the finish?

And I assume I won't have any problems shooting onto a fiberglass cowl without a primer.

Any thoughts/advice? I appreciate it everybody.

 

[JRK5892]

you can still shoot the epoxy over a primer without a problem... just use a rustoleum sandable primer, shoot theprimer, sand, then wipe down with denautred alchole, then shoot the epoxy. after about 3 hrs you can touch it and bring it home, but keep it inside so it can dry hard

 

[haw801]

do you know of any colored epoxy spray paint outside of the black, white, brown and gray. I am looking for a blue or light blue. Thanks

 

[JRK5892]

not of a primer.. but there are a bunch of dif colors for epoxy paint

 

[tWistedWheelz]

Yep, Joe hit it right man, he know this stuff well! And yes on the denatured alcohol, it will not harm the bondo or the paint as long as it is fully cured before you wipe it down. I always wipe my stuff down with a lint free cloth and denatured alcohol be for spraying. Make sure there are no particles of dust or anything on it before you spray, as this will effect the finish of the paint. As for moving it, well you will have to be real carefull with it, but after about 4 hours you can gently touch it with no ill effect, so you could move it. Just move it into a nice climate controled space to finish curing as cold will cause the gas out time to be longer.

 

[2_DONE_THE_TON]

sorry for hijacking this post but i´m about to do the same to my bodywork.

i start with bare metal and will hit it with a 2K epoxy primer.would you let the primer fully cure then sand it then hit with color?
colors will be nitro based-silver then blue metallic rattle can paints.

 

[J-Rod10]

Let it dry, block it, and catch all your high and low spots.

 

[jpmobius]

As a generality, epoxy is by far the most preferable first coating on bare steel due to its unrivaled adhesion characteristics and friendly, inert compatibility with whatever goes over it. So epoxy should be the first thing before any body filler is used. In an ideal world, you would re-epoxy anyplace you cut through to bare metal during the body working process, but a nick here and there pretty much can be tolerated. In your case if you wish to retain existing bodywork, after advising what a really bad idea this is, you will still be best served getting things as ready as possible, bare steel and body filler, and starting with epoxy as again, as a generality it is usually a good sealer, though I would not myself use it with that intent. Epoxies vary quite a bit, but if it is intended by the manufacturer as a primer you should do well. I have never used epoxy primer from a spray bomb, but as long as it is two part and intended as a primer you should have a pretty good start. So epoxy, then bodywork, then touch up epoxy, then surfacing primer, then paint. Generally there is not a lot of benefit to shoot epoxy over some other primer. What would be the purpose? It isn't cheap, generally not especially high build, and its primary benefit of adhesion is lost as you are limited to what's under it.

You really will be well served to start with completely bare metal or plastic (or fiberglass/gelcoat) with absolutely no trace whatsoever of anything else. You will end up doing a very great amount of work and endure significant expense no matter how many shortcuts you take. Ask any pro - the best way to double up on the expense and labor is a single shortcut - and most often you won't see the problem it created until some time after you are completely finished!

 

[2_DONE_THE_TON]

Thank you mobius!i will start from the plain material definitely.
My tank will be bare steel,aswell as the oil tank and the side panela of the stock seat.
My epoxied cafe seat will be sanded down to fiberglass/putty.
Please be so kind and let me know answers on my 'paint thread'.
Thank you!!