Another first timer on another CB360

Slow Steve

New Member
Hey all, new guy saying hey. I've lurked for a bit, and thought it was time I started a thread on my first CB or cafe for that matter. I usually work on old VWs, but wanted to get on a bike again. I picked up the bike of off CL for $500. PO bought a bunch of new parts... BONUS! The PO started striping the wiring harness and gave up for one reason or another. Anyway, the plan is to just get it going and back on two wheels, worry about making it all pretty later.

Here's some pics (sorry for the crappy cell phone pics):

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Started sorting the wiring

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Had the idea to tuck everything under the seat.. that I will make later

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Obligatory tab removal

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AND THERE WAS LIGHT!

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Just a test light to see if the rear was working

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The tank was jacked with holes and super thin metal, so ordered this one off of fleabay

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Ad said it was rusty on the inside, so this wasn't a surprise.

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After first overnight soak

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After second soak... looking better

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This is what came out of the tank...

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Final after some POR15 love

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This is where I stopped yesterday. More to come as I get it done. Glad to be on this site and cranking on a bike.
 
trek97 said:
things are looking great. Welcome to DTT and the Blue cb360 club!

Another blue one... where the hell are these things coming from? Black is faster... :)

Just kidding... good on you to revive another 360 from the ashes. Watching...
 
trek97 said:
things are looking great. Welcome to DTT and the Blue cb360 club!

If you dont already have em...heres the free manuals.
http://www.hondabrat.com/2013/04/manuals.html

Thanks! This site is pretty cool, and very motivating. Lots of cool people and ideas. I'll take a look at the manuals. I've been using the Clymer manual, but was wondering about the carb section; they don't match up. Thanks again!
 
3DogNate said:
Another blue one... where the hell are these things coming from? Black is faster... :)

Just kidding... good on you to revive another 360 from the ashes. Watching...

Thanks! I think there is some magical garden gnome planting blue tanks and distributing them on the world wide interwebs. ???
 
Slow Steve said:
Thanks! This site is pretty cool, and very motivating. Lots of cool people and ideas. I'll take a look at the manuals. I've been using the Clymer manual, but was wondering about the carb section; they don't match up. Thanks again!

The Clymer manual is shit. Its the Official Honda 360 workshop manual you want.
 
drummingpariah said:
What did you soak in the tank? That looks awesome, I'd love to go through the same process.

Thanks! I'm really happy how the tank came out. I was pretty worried when the tank was delivered. I soaked it overnight with 3 gallons of apple cider vinegar (ACV) (filled to the top and cap closed) it does expand a bit (I wasn't worried because my gasket was torn and the cap is vented). I topped it off on purpose so it will clean the cap area too. I then poured out half of the ACV shook the tank and poured the rest out while shaking it. I then poured another 3 gallons in and soaked it for about 2 hours. Poured out half and shook it again while pouring it out. I then rinsed the tank out several times with water to get the loose stuff out. I then went through the steps with the POR15 gas tank repair kit (Amazon $44 bucks), making sure I dried the tank out completely before pouring in the sealer. I used my girlfriends hair dryer :) Good luck and let me know how it goes.
 
trek97 said:
The Clymer manual is shit. Its the Official Honda 360 workshop manual you want.

Sounds good man, I appreciate it. I'll check it out. I have one of my carbs apart already and was scratching my head when the diagrams didn't match. I got the bike started a couple of days ago, but it was only running on on cylinder. I got spark, but no gas. I found a sticking float needle. Any tips on where to get carb kits? Thanks again!
 
the kits ive got are expensive and only available from Japan. Because theres something wrong w me. And I have some sort of carb sickness.
But most of the kits you will find have the new float needles in them. Probably ebay, amazon, dcc, motorcycle superstore...I think everyone has em.
 
Hey thanks for leaving a comment on the blog!

If you do get a pair of kits, be sure to re-use the stock air/fuel needle springs. Dont install the new ones.
Heres a post I made about the springs...so you can see if they have already been replaced by the previous owner. and need "fixed"

http://www.hondabrat.com/2012/05/kehein-754-carbsso-close.html
 
Slow Steve said:
Thanks! I'm really happy how the tank came out. I was pretty worried when the tank was delivered. I soaked it overnight with 3 gallons of apple cider vinegar (ACV) (filled to the top and cap closed) it does expand a bit (I wasn't worried because my gasket was torn and the cap is vented). I topped it off on purpose so it will clean the cap area too. I then poured out half of the ACV shook the tank and poured the rest out while shaking it. I then poured another 3 gallons in and soaked it for about 2 hours. Poured out half and shook it again while pouring it out. I then rinsed the tank out several times with water to get the loose stuff out. I then went through the steps with the POR15 gas tank repair kit (Amazon $44 bucks), making sure I dried the tank out completely before pouring in the sealer. I used my girlfriends hair dryer :) Good luck and let me know how it goes.

I have a few gallons of white vinegar, is apple cider vinegar significantly different? Is there a specific reason you chose it?
 
drummingpariah said:
I have a few gallons of white vinegar, is apple cider vinegar significantly different? Is there a specific reason you chose it?

Yup, I believe ACV has a higher acidity percentage (4%). I haven't tried white vinegar.... if you're not doing anything with it, give it a shot and let us know how it worked for you. You may have found something that would work perfectly fine in tanks. Post up some pictures of your tank.
 
Lemon juice and cola have a slightly lower pH value and may work better than vinegar, though both are likely to be more expensive and I'm not entirely certain citric acid will be good at dissolving rust. Cola, on the other had, contains Phosphoric acid which is the active ingredient in most commercial rust removers. Use Pepsi as it contains more acid than Coke.
 
Sonreir said:
Lemon juice and cola have a slightly lower pH value and may work better than vinegar, though both are likely to be more expensive and I'm not entirely certain citric acid will be good at dissolving rust. Cola, on the other had, contains Phosphoric acid which is the active ingredient in most commercial rust removers. Use Pepsi as it contains more acid than Coke.

Lemon juice and cola.... sounds like a good start to a drink ;) So I have been steadily chipping away at the bike and getting it together. I got it started and it was only running on one cylinder.. so I thought it was time to rebuild the carbs, completed those put them on the bike... started the bike up and it was backfiring through the carbs, so I thought it was time to check the timing and gaps.

I gaped the points at .014.
I then put a test light on the left point and got it to light up right at "FT"
I then put the test light on the right point and got it to light up right at the "F".

Started it back up and still had a lot of popping out the carbs.... I know it's a timing issue, but I followed the manual to a tee; but it's still off. Any tips on what I'm doing wrong? Any help would be great... I'm right at the point to get to drive this thing.
 
I find it's always best to verify static timing with a strobe light after the bike is up and running. Static timing is good enough to get the thing to start and hopefully run, but timing with a strobe light is "doing it right".

That said, popping from the carbs is more likely to be a fueling issue. It's a common symptom for running lean. Have the carbs been cleaned since you got the bike? Checked the float levels? Stuff like that?
 
Sonreir said:
I find it's always best to verify static timing with a strobe light after the bike is up and running. Static timing is good enough to get the thing to start and hopefully run, but timing with a strobe light is "doing it right".

That said, popping from the carbs is more likely to be a fueling issue. It's a common symptom for running lean. Have the carbs been cleaned since you got the bike? Checked the float levels? Stuff like that?

I have just taken both carbs apart, soaked them in chem clean for about an hour and a half to 2 hours, rinsed them and blew air through all the nooks/crannies/ etc... then put in the kits. I'm new to motorcycle tuning... well everything, but will check the air fuel mixture tomorrow. Thanks!
 
Slow Steve said:
I have just taken both carbs apart, soaked them in chem clean for about an hour and a half to 2 hours, rinsed them and blew air through all the nooks/crannies/ etc... then put in the kits. I'm new to motorcycle tuning... well everything, but will check the air fuel mixture tomorrow. Thanks!

No love.. I backed the air fuel mixture screws out until they were ready to come out.... still spitting through the carbs and backfiring out the exhaust.... I regapped the points, set the timing (static).. it does start but snap crackles and pops. The higher the rpm the more it does it. I made sure all the jets and holes were clean and clear when I took them apart for a cleaning.. any ideas?
 
I would normally say some kind of air leak, but usually that goes away at higher RPMs.

What mods are you running right now?
 
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