ARGHHH Rear Sets giving me fits!

[03rangerxlt]

Again, I cry out for HEEEEELLLLLLLLP!!!

The shifter side was actually easy and if it needs adjusting, that will be no problem.

The brake side is giving me hell though. Here it is in a pretty comfortable position:

The problem is, I have to push down on it pretty far to engage the brake.

Here is the drum and the lever arm with the brake disenaged:

and with the brake engaged:

Also the stock return spring doesn't seem to have enough umph to return the spring that well.

Any suggestions guys? My dumb ass decided to coast down the driveway, and stopping was a bi-otch! The brake engages, so the insides of the drum works are working fine. Any suggestions? I'm going to double post in my build thread also.

 

[Tim]

Couple of things.

First, how worn out are your brake shoes? Shouldn't need much travel on the drum arm to get the brakes engaging.

Second, consider flipping the rearsets so the arms are on the bottoms. On the brake side this will eliminate the push on the rod and rather have you pulling on the rod. It is straight, so it's not going to flex, but you're better off pulling on the rod especially with that kind of load applying the brake.

Third, because the arm on the rearset is shorter than the arm on the brake spindle, you're having to rotate the rearset pedal further to move the brake. If you drill a hole lower on the brake spindle arm and mount the rod-end to it, it will rotate further with the pedal movement. You'll lose mechanical advantage, but again, you shouldn't need much to get the rear wheel slowing down.

You're using the stock brake arm spindle (where the old pedal used to mount) and I see the return spring there, so chances are either its worn out and didn't work before or you have something mounted wrong. If it returned the old brake pedal then it should return this setup.

Could also suggest worn out springs on your brake shoes inside the drum. Get new brake shoes and springs.

 

[03rangerxlt]

Thanks! I'll pull it apart on Monday and try out the things you've suggested.

 

[HerrDeacon]

Third, because the arm on the rearset is shorter than the arm on the brake spindle, you're having to rotate the rearset pedal further to move the brake. If you drill a hole lower on the brake spindle arm and mount the rod-end to it, it will rotate further with the pedal movement. You'll lose mechanical advantage, but again, you shouldn't need much to get the rear wheel slowing down.

Definitely this is the main issue causing the long travel.

 

[Ringo]

Yep, definitely what Tim said. Drill it lower until you get proper braking, then trim it, repaint.

 

[03rangerxlt]

Awww damnit! So Lingo came over this week and we got the rear sets all squared away. Well last night, I stick my exhaust on the bike, and the brake hits the exhaust just before the rear brake engages. Damnit! LOL

 

[teddpage]

I had a similar issue with my 450. You need a stop for the brake lever on the backside of the lever. The stock lever should have had some sort of stop or adjuster at the lever. This way, the lever rests against the stop when the brakes are not engaged, (spring tension should hold it there) and you can essentially "preload" the brake rod via the adjuster at the drum.

This may be a little hard to understand...i can try to get pix up later this week if need be.

 

[03rangerxlt]

yes, pics please whenever you get a chance!

 

[DrJ]

I would not trust a cable actuated rear drum brake for the street. One good panic stomp and snap!

 

[Innamorata 750]

I would not trust a cable actuated rear drum brake for the street. One good panic stomp and snap!

If your stomping the rear brake in any sort of stop, you're doing something very wrong.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

 

[teddpage]

Here's the pix as promised. This may not be the "correct" way, but it worked for me. I had the same issue where pedal travel was excessive before the brakes would grab. So what i did was fab up a stop like this (the bracket with the small bolt installed, on the left side of the lever):

This way, the spring tension of the brake rests the brake lever against the stop...then you can dial in the adjuster at the drum.
At rest, this is where my rearset sits

And fully engaged, the lever sits here

Its about an inch of travel before i can practically lock up the rear brake.

I hope this gives you a slightly better understanding of what i mean......feel free to email or pm me for further questions

 

[03rangerxlt]

so, I am not supposed to push down on the lever with my toe to apply the rear brake?

I feel like this is a stupid question, but when you've never ridden a motorcycle (one time, in a parking lot, back in 1998, doesn't count to me, because I ended up laying in the parking lot...), its an important question.

 

[03rangerxlt]

GET PRO RIDER TRAINING,guy!

Before I EVER mount this bike to take it on a ride! Thats been the plan since day one. I'm thinking some knowledge of how to actually ride would have gone a long way in helping me assemble this thing.

 

[woolsac]

we got the rear sets all squared away.

What did you do to get them squared away? I am having the same issue you mentioned above with having very long travel until the brake engages. Please help! Thanks. BTW I have new drum brakes so its not an issue with having them be wore out.

 

[03rangerxlt]

we drilled a hole lower on the pivot arm, and it changed the geometry just the right way. i'll get a picture up soon.

 

[woolsac]

we drilled a hole lower on the pivot arm, and it changed the geometry just the right way. i'll get a picture up soon.

Thank you for the help. A picture would be great when you have the chance.

 

[03rangerxlt]

here is the pic...

you can see towards the left of the picture, above the yellow wire, is where the original hole was for the linkage, and the one we drilled is just below he wire.