Aces North
New Member
Hi everyone,
I have been reading the forum for some time, there is a lot to get through and some great advice. I have seen a few threads that touch on my problems but none that combine all of them.
Being mechanically inept, but keen to have a go, I ordered and installed th OORacing kit of blue CDI box, emissions blanking plate, straight through pipe and slip on "silencer", carby jets, rear cog etc I replaced the exhaust, jets and CDI, blanked off the emissions port and put a screw in the carb tube etc.Now I have real trouble starting the bike.
The idle mixture screw needs to be almost completely wound out for it to start and I have found it easier to start if I cover the end of the exhaust with my hand, then if ridden like that (without the hand of course) there is a lot of popping from the exhaust on deceleration (due to the overly rich mixture?) The screw eventually fell out and the spring was lost. I used the spring from a pen cut in half to give some tension to the screw. It has proved impossible to start in a standard 1-2 turns out idle mixture screw setting.
After starting, if I lean the idle mixture to peak rpm and adjust the idle speed it runs nicely, but bloody loud, and then it will start ok if hot, but if it cools down it won't start and the whole screwing around process has to start again.
It was so reliable albeit underpowered in its stock form, but now it is just a pain. I don't know why it works when covering the exhaust but I would like to be able to take it out without a screwdriver in my pocket.
I have read some Briggs and Stratton info on tuning a PZ-26 carb, but it is the starting that has me stumped. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I believe the FNQ road racing championships are on at the end of August. (I will only be spectating unless they have an all Ace class). Thanks again.
I have been reading the forum for some time, there is a lot to get through and some great advice. I have seen a few threads that touch on my problems but none that combine all of them.
Being mechanically inept, but keen to have a go, I ordered and installed th OORacing kit of blue CDI box, emissions blanking plate, straight through pipe and slip on "silencer", carby jets, rear cog etc I replaced the exhaust, jets and CDI, blanked off the emissions port and put a screw in the carb tube etc.Now I have real trouble starting the bike.
The idle mixture screw needs to be almost completely wound out for it to start and I have found it easier to start if I cover the end of the exhaust with my hand, then if ridden like that (without the hand of course) there is a lot of popping from the exhaust on deceleration (due to the overly rich mixture?) The screw eventually fell out and the spring was lost. I used the spring from a pen cut in half to give some tension to the screw. It has proved impossible to start in a standard 1-2 turns out idle mixture screw setting.
After starting, if I lean the idle mixture to peak rpm and adjust the idle speed it runs nicely, but bloody loud, and then it will start ok if hot, but if it cools down it won't start and the whole screwing around process has to start again.
It was so reliable albeit underpowered in its stock form, but now it is just a pain. I don't know why it works when covering the exhaust but I would like to be able to take it out without a screwdriver in my pocket.
I have read some Briggs and Stratton info on tuning a PZ-26 carb, but it is the starting that has me stumped. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I believe the FNQ road racing championships are on at the end of August. (I will only be spectating unless they have an all Ace class). Thanks again.
