Bad noise after rebuild

[Flugtechnik]

Then once I can get the sweet moola for a compression tester I will test that and report back.

You can borrow a compression tester from Autozone or another auto parts store if you don't plan on using it much.

 

[Mr-Wolf]

You can borrow a compression tester from Autozone or another auto parts store if you don't plan on using it much.

I don't know why that never occurred to me....

 

[Mr-Wolf]

So this maybe a dumb question, but is the piston actually supposed to be at TDC when the 1.4 t mark lines up with the tooth? Because mine doesn't. The picture below show the Piston at TDC.

 

[crazypj]

1 and 4 pistons should be at TDC when the line for 1.4 lines up with mark on crankcase.
Remove the center bolt on advance unit and check the drive pin in end of crank hasn't broken off as that is way out. Do you have spark plugs out so you can see piston top? (or use a dowel down plug hole)

 

[Mr-Wolf]

1 and 4 pistons should be at TDC when the line for 1.4 lines up with mark on crankcase.
Remove the center bolt on advance unit and check the drive pin in end of crank hasn't broken off as that is way out. Do you have spark plugs out so you can see piston top? (or use a dowel down plug hole)

I'm betting that's it. I will check as soon as I can. This has probably bent my valves I'm guessing it's way off, is there any easy way to test to see if they are bent while the valve cover is off?

 

[crazypj]

Airline down plug hole at TDCC on each cylinder. Not 100% but will show if you have intake or exhaust valves leaking

 

[Mr-Wolf]

Airline down plug hole at TDCC on each cylinder. Not 100% but will show if you have intake or exhaust valves leaking

I will do that tomorrow then, it will be my luck with this bike that all the valves are bent!

 

[Tune-A-Fish]

You can see the key behind the bolt. That advancer does not look healthy tho


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[Mr-Wolf]

You can see the key behind the bolt. That advancer does not look healthy tho


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I beg a little wd40 will clean that surface rust off and it'll be good to go!

 

[crazypj]

You can see the key behind the bolt. That advancer does not look healthy tho


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON

That 'key' only locks the nut to the advancer. The pin is on the crank end so bolt has to come out and advancer removed

 

[Tune-A-Fish]

Yep

 

[Mr-Wolf]

Alright so here it is...
That little pin broke, which in turn made the timing way off.
So when I went to time the motor I was very very off... and now I have bent intake valves. I did a leak down with brake clean on the exhaust valves and they didn't drip any liquid, one or two may have had the slightest moist spot around the seal but nothing close to a drip. I guess I shouldn't expect them to be perfectly sealed as the motor set for a very long time unprotected. I had touched them up in the first rebuild with some lapping compound (don't yell, I said touched not used a drill, it was all by hand)
and they have around 30mi on them so that is probably not a bad seal for that.

So now questions,
do I need to buy new? or can I get used? and in ether case of new or used how do I go about seating them? (please don't say machine shop, please don't say machine shop).
Is the very light moistness around the exhaust valves ok?
Do I have to replace my band new head gasket? I mean I just got it, its only had 1 very quick heat cycle to it, that really wasn't ever brought up to full temp...
Am I at an acceptable limit to shoot myself after all the problems I have had?

 

[adventurco]

You can search eBay for used valves, I had a really hard time finding a straight valve for the XL when I did the head - it took me 3-4 valves to find a straight one (they were known for bending). Its going to cost you some coin, but I would just pony up and buy all new valves. Bring them to a machine shop (yup) and just have em grind the seats. I had all 4 valves on the XL done for under $100 at a local machine shop, and they were BAD. You may be able to find a place that can source the valves for you as well and maybe get a good deal. I would call around.

 

[Mr-Wolf]

You can search eBay for used valves, I had a really hard time finding a straight valve for the XL when I did the head - it took me 3-4 valves to find a straight one (they were known for bending). Its going to cost you some coin, but I would just pony up and buy all new valves. Bring them to a machine shop (yup) and just have em grind the seats. I had all 4 valves on the XL done for under $100 at a local machine shop, and they were BAD. You may be able to find a place that can source the valves for you as well and maybe get a good deal. I would call around.

All new, as in exhaust too?
WHY DID YOU HAVE TO SAY THAT!!! I honestly don't know if there is a local machine shop that has the right bit to do the 3 bevel cut needed.

 

[adventurco]

If you can find a machine shop they can put a dial indicator on them and tell you which ones are to spec. Call around, most of the time shops can recommend you guys they know that do what you're looking for. Used valves are just a crapshoot most of the time. You're at the sellers mercy.

You could always buy a parts bike, lol.

 

[Mr-Wolf]

If you can find a machine shop they can put a dial indicator on them and tell you which ones are to spec. Call around, most of the time shops can recommend you guys they know that do what you're looking for. Used valves are just a crapshoot most of the time. You're at the sellers mercy.

You could always buy a parts bike, lol.

I happen to know a machinist who could indicate the stems...as for cutting seats I am SOL.
True, I guess $60 plus shipping isn't the worst price for all new intake valves.

THIS WAS A PARTS BIKE!!! I guess I should have probably bought a running bike instead of buying a basket case and trying to make it a running bike.

 

[adventurco]

I happen to know a machinist who could indicate the stems...as for cutting seats I am SOL.
True, I guess $60 plus shipping isn't the worst price for all new intake valves.

THIS WAS A PARTS BIKE!!! I guess I should have probably bought a running bike instead of buying a basket case and trying to make it a running bike.

This is what happens, though. $60 is a great price. The XL valves are $200+ for a nice set (4 valves). I only had one bent so I was able to replace that one and slap it together. You'll want to look for an engine building shop, you can always call some motorcycle builder shops/repair shops and ask who they use.

 

[Tune-A-Fish]

Some bikes are possessed :-X

 

[Mr-Wolf]

So the plan is, buy new valves and get seats cut. And slap it back together with the current head gasket?

 

[Mr-Wolf]

This is what happens, though. $60 is a great price. The XL valves are $200+ for a nice set (4 valves). I only had one bent so I was able to replace that one and slap it together. You'll want to look for an engine building shop, you can always call some motorcycle builder shops/repair shops and ask who they use.

I lied! Those were out of stock.
I am having a damn hard time finding any new valves. What if I either bought used valves and had them reground or bought a used head from a salvage yard?