Battery Eliminator
- Thread starter 77cb750f
- Start date
They work, but you need to have a good charging system. If you have a multimeter, set it to read the DC voltage across your battery terminals. Start up the bike and let it idle. If you're getting 13V or better, then you can probably use one without any issues.
I bought one for my CJ360 and wasn't able to use it. Not enough voltage being generated at idle.
I bought one for my CJ360 and wasn't able to use it. Not enough voltage being generated at idle.
56_oval
Active Member
So, what's the consensus on this? I have a '64 superhawk, I'd like to go batteryless with. I know that the ignition system on the bike originally had to have the battery to make spark, but it's in pieces and I was thinking about trying a different ignition setup and possibly another stator....
PancakeShake
Been Around the Block
Not trying to thread jack, but is there a way you can just put a "smaller" battery in a bike and still have everything work alright?
I have no kick start, so i=I cant do a capacitor.
My stock battery is 12v 11AH, could I put a 12V 5AH battery in it? The amps are just there to turn the bike over right? once its going is uses minimal amperage.
Correct? Incorrect?
I have no kick start, so i=I cant do a capacitor.
My stock battery is 12v 11AH, could I put a 12V 5AH battery in it? The amps are just there to turn the bike over right? once its going is uses minimal amperage.
Correct? Incorrect?
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
PancakeShake said:
Not quite.
The charging system is designed for a certain output.
If battery is too small it will overcharge and can explode or catch fire (exploding batteries are not fun, even when it's someone else's bike)
5A/hr will probably work but if you use a sealed battery you won't know when it's boiled dry.
The A/hr rating tells you the reserve capacity, you need to know CCA to find out if it will turn bike over.
Lower CCA, less chance you have of starting if it doesn't fire up first time
If your not racing, there is absolutely no good reason to use a cap instead of a battery on a streetbike
Wolfie
Live to Ride, an all dat stuff!
Actually...
The 750 has an excited rotor, you have to have a battery to initiate charge.
As far as the size of the battery,
I created my own charging system long ago, and have done it again on my latest 750.
Using diodes from Chevy Delco, and regulator from an old retro-refit Chrysler.
I also ran 8 Sub-C Cell Ni-cads for the battery on the last bike for years with no problems,
as long as the voltage does not go over 13.7 you would be ok.
The 750 has an excited rotor, you have to have a battery to initiate charge.
As far as the size of the battery,
I created my own charging system long ago, and have done it again on my latest 750.
Using diodes from Chevy Delco, and regulator from an old retro-refit Chrysler.
I also ran 8 Sub-C Cell Ni-cads for the battery on the last bike for years with no problems,
as long as the voltage does not go over 13.7 you would be ok.
56_oval
Active Member
crazypj said:
Here's some info on the battery.
Dimensions (Metric): 52MM(L) x 52MM(W) x 84MM(H)
Dimensions (Standard): 2" (L) x 2" (W) x 3.25" (H)
Negative Terminal Location: Right
Weight: 246 grams (.543 lb.)
Voltage (Charged): 13.6V
Amperage: 4Pb-eq/Ah
Pulse Cranking Amps: 80 CCA
Operating Environment: -18°C (0°F) to 60°C (140°F)
Typical Applications: 50cc and under motorcycles, scooters, and ATVs
The EVO2 50 is the smallest battery in our lineup and is intended for us in small scooters, motorcycles, and ATVs with a displacement of 50cc and under. The primary advantage of the EVO2 50 Battery is that it doesn’t discharge over extended periods of occasional use. This means you can leave your scooter or small ATV in the garage for months and as long as nothing is drawing from the battery during static use then your scooter will still start every time. This could potentially save hundreds of dollars in replacement battery costs over the life of a scooter. At a retail price of less than $50 it is usually cheaper than the lead acid equivalent.
Up to 80% smaller than the stock battery
Up to 10lbs Lighter than the stock battery
Service life of over twice a lead acid in similar conditions
Industry leading 3 year warranty
Designed, developed, and assembled in the USA
Completely “dry” technology so batteries can be mounted in any direction
Non-toxic, recyclable, and can be air shipped
Applications for powersports vehicles from 50cc - 2300cc
Tested extensively by professional race teams
Impact and water resistant
Works with the original equipment charging system
No trickle charger required, loses only 10% of charge over a year of static use
Your powersports vehicle is the pinnacle of modern technology. It is made with the latest lightweight, high tech materials to be the most high performance vehicle on the road, lake, track or trail. You have modified your powersports vehicle with the best in carbon fiber, titanium, and magnesium in an effort to gain every last ounce of performance. Yet, under your seat is a heavy hunk of lead that was designed in the mid 1800’s.
Ballistic Performance Component Batteries use the latest, state of the art lithium ferrous energy storage technology available to provide you with a smaller, lighter, higher energy battery. Each Ballistic Performance Component Battery is assembled by hand in the USA using computer designed custom cells, cases, and hardware. As a result, Ballistic Performance Component Batteries will provide more energy out of a smaller package while requiring almost no regular maintenance and under most conditions a longer service life than existing lead acid batteries.
CROSS REFERENCE FOR 4 CELL SMALL THE FOLLOWING YUASA WILL WORK WITH THIS BATTERY:
YUASA # YB3L-A
YUASA # YB3L-B
YUASA # YB4L-A
YUASA # YB4L-B
YUASA # YB5L-B
The 3 Year Limited Warranty is on a pro-rated
basis based on the original date of purchase.
noexit
Been Around the Block
From what I've heard (I've not used a LiFePO4 battery myself, but have a friend who has fried one) that one the of biggest factors in your charging system that determines if you can use these batteries is your regulator. A stock CB77 regulator may not be able to control spikes in the charge rate well enough to not fry the battery. I'm guessing, but haven't been able to verify, that if you replace your stock regulator and rectifier with a modern regulator/rectifier, it will be able to use a LiFePO4 battery with no problem.
That's what I hope to do with my CB400F anyway.
That's what I hope to do with my CB400F anyway.
56_oval
Active Member
I was planning on using a more modern regulator on the bike but I'm not sure which one to go with. There's one offered for the CB77 from a guy in Oregon. I used one of his solid state regulators on my last CB77 and it worked fine, but I don't know if it's good for this setup. I'm trying to make sure cause a fire or exploding battery is the last thing I want.
I don't know much about the Ballistic line of lithiums, but I'm running a 7ah Shorai on my XS650 (kick only) and so far so good. Now, in the same case size, you can go all the way to 14ah and 210cca. I'm considering upgrading to that one as I might install the electric starter again to help my tired right leg deal with the motor.
Case size #2 from Shorai is 2.3" x 4.5" x 3.5" and the 14ah version weighs 1.7 pounds (my 7ah one weighs 1 pound). With batteries this small and of high capacity, there's rarely a reason to run a capacitor IMHO, aside from their high cost ($150 for the 14ah version).
I can only imagine that they are not so sensitive and prone to being killed that less than perfect regulation would destroy them any more than it would kill a standard battery. I could be wrong, but they're intended to drop in as direct replacements. I do believe they don't like battery tenders with desulfation modes.
Shorai has a nice FAQ listing many key questions.
http://www.shoraipower.com/t-faq.aspx
Case size #2 from Shorai is 2.3" x 4.5" x 3.5" and the 14ah version weighs 1.7 pounds (my 7ah one weighs 1 pound). With batteries this small and of high capacity, there's rarely a reason to run a capacitor IMHO, aside from their high cost ($150 for the 14ah version).
I can only imagine that they are not so sensitive and prone to being killed that less than perfect regulation would destroy them any more than it would kill a standard battery. I could be wrong, but they're intended to drop in as direct replacements. I do believe they don't like battery tenders with desulfation modes.
Shorai has a nice FAQ listing many key questions.
http://www.shoraipower.com/t-faq.aspx
Lithium Ion batteries are not fond of extreme environments and are particularly sensitive to over or under charging.
I did a lot of research on them before deciding to stick with Lead Acid on my own build. The weight is a real bonus on the LIs, but the disadvantages just don't do it for me (especially considering the price of most of them).
I did a lot of research on them before deciding to stick with Lead Acid on my own build. The weight is a real bonus on the LIs, but the disadvantages just don't do it for me (especially considering the price of most of them).
noexit
Been Around the Block
My own research suggests that the LiFePO4 batteries are much more tolerant of abuse than traditional Lion batteries. Still not as tolerant as Lead Acid, but it seems like with a good charging system, they'll do fine, and possibly better than lead acid. No battery will last long with a bad charging system, but traditional Lion can explode or catch fire. LiFePO4 can over heat and melt their casings, but when they fail, it's not going to be catastrophic. Lead acid will just boil generally, or fail quietly.
