battery

[fugue]

Anyone know what Gel-type (AGM) batteries fit into the stock battery tray of a typical honda (I believe they are all the same size)? I want to get away from the spillable type, particularly since the battery I have for the 350 is toast anyway.

 

[Tripler]

AGM batteries are usually the same size as the stock lead-acid

 

[fugue]

Usually, but all the ones I've been able to find so far are bigger in width/length... and none of the 'recommended' batteries from the manufacturers web sites are AGM.

Any pointers on where to look?

 

[Tripler]

Have a look at this- http://www.cycledepot.net/wholesaleMotorcycleParts/fromLps/brand/Y/Yuasa.htm page 1039
Check for the charging rate you require

 

[rudy]

Check out a real battery store (or battery truck like Interstate). There's a store just down the road from work here that carries a number of different lines, and can get every size and type of battery. Just take your old battery in and it should match up to something.

 

[fugue]

Okay, another, probably more pertinent question: battery sizing. The bike runs a 12Ah battery now - do I have to choose a new battery with the same Ah rating, or can I pick a different rating? Who knows about electrical stuff?

 

[Scarcat]

Okay, another, probably more pertinent question: battery sizing. The bike runs a 12Ah battery now - do I have to choose a new battery with the same Ah rating, or can I pick a different rating? Who knows about electrical stuff?

ok ... here's what I understand ...
All motorcycle batteries are categorized in the following way:
1) Their dimensions (H X W X D)
2) 6 volt or 12 volt
3) Gel or Acid
4) Their AH rating. AH is short for Amps per Hour ratiing.

Thus when finding a battery the following IS important:
1) The battery fits the size of the opening you have
2) The battery is rated in volts for the motorcycle you have
3) The AH rating is correct for your bike. (Most motorcycle batteries have a 12ah rating, so you should be safe).

I talk from experience when I say that running out of electricity when going for a ride sincerely sucks.
Too much amperage and you could fry your starter
Too little amperage and you may not have enough to start your bike or pre-feed the coils, or ... in specific case of new bikes ... may not have enough juice to power up your circuit boards, electronic ignition, etc.

 

[fugue]

Hmm, thanks Scarcat... that pretty much confirms my gut and the reading I've been doing over the last 30 min. It looks like I am going to have to do some calculations and figure out exactly how much the current draw is for the bike, and see the minimum battery capacity required. Considering that I have tons of electrical debugging to do, it shouldn't be too much extra to figure it all out. I spent a couple hours working on it this evening and discovered that the electrical is a total disaster on this bike ATM. No starter, no lights, no nothing. But on the good side, I replaced the old fuse with an automotive type ATO, so now that wont short itself on the frame! (Again!)

 

[xander450]

IMHO, the best option is SLA (sealed lead-acid) type batteries. They're cheap, mountable in any position, and come in a wide variety of dimensions. The downsides: prices go up exponentially as you increase in AH ratings, and they're not significantly smaller than standard batteries of the same amperage.

I run a CB450 with an 8 AH battery (original was 12) without problems. It cost my about 20 bucks and is about 1.5" thick, making it very easy to hide beneath the seat.

Something to consider, however: most vintage alternators don't generate significant power until you get up in the revs to 4-5k or so. That's not a problem most of the time, as you should be riding in the 5-8k range anyway (if you're dragging your bike around at 2k, you won't have long before batteries are the least of your worries), but it does pose some problems if you're stuck in traffic for an hour at night.

One more thing: if that's a Honda 350 you're working with, it's got three separate charging circuits coming off of the alternator. Two are on at all times - the third only comes on when your headlight's on to compensate for the increased power draw. You can rewire there (basically just involves splicing the extra wire into a live circuit) to get that power at all times, thus decreasing draw from your battery.

A