Black and Gold Cafe - 71 CB350

ducatiboy said:
THIS is OUTSTANDING!! :) :) :) :)

Great work and documentation! I have yet to figure out what I'll do for my rear brake lever and I might have a go at this solution. If you can document the rest of your rear brake as you you finish it off that would be awesome 8)

SeekingZero said:
Great! Thanks for coming up with this brake idea, now I have to go buy a welder. ;)

Can't wait to see the finished product!

Wow thanks guys! I'm glad you like it :)

First things first, Ducatiboy, here's a quick shot of how the bike currently sits with how I have the kickstand mounted.
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Ok, back to the rear brakes.

Next task was to start the tab that the linkage from the rearset will connect to. I decided to use fairly heavy 1/4" steel as that is what the other tab is that pulls on the actual brake rod. I didn't want any undue flex in the brake system, so I decided to copy that thickness.

Don't the rusty chunk of metal, I don't use 1/4" very often so the piece I had in my scrap bucket had been there for quite a while. A few minutes with the flap wheel on my angle grinder and it was cleaned up. I drew out the shape I wanted with about a 2.25" lever arm center-to-center, cut it out with the angle grinder, and then with a combination of the grinder, files, and elbow grease cleaned it up.
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Then I wanted to make sure that this tab wouldn't hit the engine, so I set up the brake contraption so that the actual brake rod tab was touching the engine, set the new tab on it and marked the position.
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I marked the position of the tab so that I new where to weld it, then started figuring out my holes. I wanted to have a little adjustability, so I decided I on 3 holes. I don't have the correct tap, so I was going to use weldnuts (tapped holes in the 1/4" tab probably would be better). I laid out the weldnuts to make sure I would be able to fit them all, and center punched the holes.
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Then I drilled my three mounting holes for the linkage, and also a couple lightening holes.
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Next step was to tack it on and bring it back over to the bike and check the fit and pedal travel.
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the linkage gets really close to the tab, I might need to do a little clearanceing later
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I also checked the travel in the shortest lever setting.
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I decided I was happy with it, and welded it up!
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More soon!
 
Great progress Korsch! We will have to meet up and ride when our bikes get done.

Rear sets look great, nice job with the brass insert for the shifter.
 
Good job Korsch. Vey nicely done and well explained. Thanks for taking the time to do it. I will definitely give this solution a try. BTW where did you get your rearsets/levers from? Did you make them yourself?
 
really cool tank and colors

what brand did you prime / paint the frame with? you still want to get it powdercoated after painting it?
 
blkgsx90 said:
Great progress Korsch! We will have to meet up and ride when our bikes get done.

Rear sets look great, nice job with the brass insert for the shifter.

Yes we definitely will! I'm hoping for having a rideable bike by the end of april, but I think that is very optimistic :/

ducatiboy said:
Good job Korsch. Vey nicely done and well explained. Thanks for taking the time to do it. I will definitely give this solution a try. BTW where did you get your rearsets/levers from? Did you make them yourself?

Thanks! I am thinking about doing a separate write up in the rearsets section. And yes the rearsets are Loaded Gun from DCC. I'm also using the DCC linkage kit.

marla_do said:
really cool tank and colors

what brand did you prime / paint the frame with? you still want to get it powdercoated after painting it?

Thanks! It's just a stock 40 yr old tank and paint job. Frame was painted with rustoleum "professional series" and rustoleum primer as well. I am still planning on powerdercoat next winter. I wanted to make sure I was 100% happy with the frame before PC, so decided to start with paint, ride it for a while, then take it all back apart for the final work and PC when I know it's all just how I want.
 
Just a few little things done last night. I got a few electrical components in the mail yesterday, fuse/power distribution block, electronic flasher, power relay (to switch on the fuse block), and I got my battery a few days ago.

Word to the wise, figure out how big your components are before you buy them! both the battery and fuse block were bigger than I imagined and barely fit into my electrics tray. Don't make the same mistake, get dimensions and measure out the space you have!

Here's all the stuff located in the pan under the seat
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I had to drill a couple holes to mount the fuse block
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And I also started working on the rear taillight/blinker mount (just a little, bent up one piece for it)
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And did some painting. Both need at least one more coat.
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More soon!
 
I spent yesterday afternoon doing your rear brake actuation trick on my bike. It's worked out well but I don't weld as nicely as you do :) I just need to weld the tab that connects to the rear set, paint and then i'm done. I find welding thick chunky steel onto thin tube difficult :p :p Any tips?
 
ducatiboy said:
I spent yesterday afternoon doing your rear brake actuation trick on my bike. It's worked out well but I don't weld as nicely as you do :) I just need to weld the tab that connects to the rear set, paint and then i'm done. I find welding thick chunky steel onto thin tube difficult :p :p Any tips?

You should post some pics on your build thread! Only tips I have are to try and concentrate the heat more on the thicker piece of steel (which works great for TIG which is how I used to weld in school) but it's more difficult to use that trick on MIG. What kind of welding are you doing?

I'm interested to see how it works out for you with the rearset travel. I haven't had a chance to hook up the linkage on mine yet, so I don't know for sure how much the rearset will move before applying the brake :( I had to spend last night fixing an exhaust leak on my car, darn rust...
 
Wish I could see more pics photo bucket says the bandwidth is tapped out...

How many guys here are in Metro Detroit? I started a bike here in 2007 (see it in links http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=401.msg10673#msg10673 and http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=1380.msg10576#msg10576

Lost a little interest as I never met up with anyone else locally into this stuff. I'm in Royal Oak and spend a lot of time in Auburn Hills (Law School).

My ride hasn't been out of the garage in 2 years.. need to do the rectifier mod, sync the carbs, and address an oil leak, left side (shifter shaft I believe)...

Anyone want to meet up or get greasy?

Magikphun
 
I'm a novice with a cheap MIG Korsch! I'm not TOO worried what the weld looks like, I just don't want the welded arm to snap off when I apply the rear brake! I'll post a photo on my thread when I can take one...been a bit busy with work etc
 
Been way too long since I updated this! Had to go out of the country for a couple weeks for work, but I'm back now and getting back to work on the bike. I still need to find a new place to host my photos so they don't exceed my bandwidth at photobucket again. Anyone know if Picasa or Flickr have bandwidth restrictions?

magikphun, I know there are at least a couple others around the area. I'm currently in Belleville but moving to Plymouth soon. We should definitely have a meet up or ride sometime!
 
Finally got some work done. Just a little here and a little there. Painted and installed my new RR (still needs to be wired), hooked up my brake lever and linkage, and also got some work done on my handlebars and controls.

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More soon!
 
I'm not entirely sure. It's gonna be an underslung system of some sort, but I'm torn between a 2-1 vs. a 2-2. Most race bikes i've been looking at use a 2-2. Does anybody know the performance difference between the two?

I would think the 2-1 would cause uneven scavenging between the two cylinders due to the 180* crank, making one cylinder always fire significantly stronger than the other.

Also, i was originally thinking 1.25" headers, but I think that 1.375" might be better for a built motor (that this will eventually be), any input?

Any input is greatly appreciated!
 
Theres a bunch of info on 350 exhaust design on here. Should be easy to find.

This build is really killer man. At this pace it may be one of the nicest on DTT when finished.
 
VonYinzer said:
This build is really killer man. At this pace it may be one of the nicest on DTT when finished.

teazer said:
Nice work on those rear sets. That's exactly how they should be done.

Wow high praise! Thank you!

Made some really good progress this weekend on the wiring harness. Unfortunately it doesn't make for exciting pictures, but I took some anyway. I got the front half of the harness that runs up to the steering stem all finished and wrapped up nice, and then realized I forgot one wire. Doh, had to take it all back out but now that wire is there (it was the one to power the gauge illumination). I got the harness basically complete, except for connectors. They're awfully expensive so I wanted to make sure I knew exactly what I needed before I ordered them. Fortunately McMaster ships everything overnight so they'll be here Tuesday at the latest.

I also have a gold 530 chain in the mail, a PAMCO ignition, carb parts (rebuild kits, 115 jets, and pod filters!) so hopefully it should be running next weekend! The only unknown is the ignition, I haven't received a tracking number so I'm not 100% when it's supposed to arrive, but if I have to I can find the condensers I cut off (never throw anything away until the project is complete!) and run the points for a little bit while I wait for the PAMCO. Exciting!

Pics:

Laying out the wires
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Mess of wires
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I'm using this wire sleeving on the harness to protect it
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And the only non-electrical thing I did all weekend, welding some brackets onto my ebay taillight bracket for the blinkers, and then mounting it to the fender
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More soon!
 
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