Blinkers on the Cheap.

Redbird

Redbird

Dolor est Magister Optimus
DTT BOTM WINNER
I had been eyeballin' a set like this, only in LED's, for a while now. I spotted these at a local Pilot Truck Stop for $10... about half the price of the LED version. Honestly, when I saw the price, I grabbed them up and bought them before I realized they weren't the LED's. But I figured, what the hell, I'll do a test run with these and if I like them I can always swap over to the LED's later.
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I used existing holes in the headlight ears, but did have to clearance the headlight bucket some.
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The rears were used in their intended location.
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They're not the brightest, but they do catch enough of your attention. And since "legally" the bike is supposed to have them, they should be enough to keep the LEO's happy as well.
 
Are they dual filaments? As in running lights and blinkers?

My new lights turned out to be only single filament, so my signals don't work :(
 
silverstonepgt said:
Are they dual filaments? As in running lights and blinkers?
Click to expand...
Nah, single element. They function as a turn signal only.
Although, I suppose with a little ingenuity, one could graft in a dual function LED into the housing.
 
they should ground out to the material you mount them to. you can also ground them with a wire to the base of the nut
 
Ok Dammit! If EVERYBODY is gonna do it, I want some kind of royalties!!!


:D ;D :D ;D :D ;D
 
They look good, but how visible are they? I'd buy them (and maybe think about giving you your royalties ;) ) if they were easy for the people piloting death on four wheels to see.
 
They're not nearly as visible as the stockers are. And I find that even those aren't enough for the brain dead drivers out there. If you want bright, go with something bigger.
These are merely "just enough to be legal" ;)
 
You can easily make a one wire light into a dual function light. You have two power sources going to it, one directly from your blinker switch for full power, and one from your light circuit with a few resisters wired inline. The resisters will keep the light dim untill you hit the switch, then it gets full power. Radio shack sells 1K ohm resisters cheap. You can do the same thing for a brake light, full power from the brake light switch but limited from the running light circuit.
Something else you can do, but only with a light that has a ground wire, is run the power wire to voltage so the light is on all the time, but run the ground wire to your blinker switch, when you hit the switch it applies voltage and takes away the ground and turns off the light, the flasher turns off and the light turns back on. This way it will work backwards, but still blinks the light.
 
Aight bought the lights.

Now does it matter which wire i hook up to the light and which i ground?

if so how can i tell which on is which?

Ill post pics up when I'm all done.
 
Okay hooked em up.. got the lights running, but they don't blink.. They just stay lit when i put down the button.. Not a big deal because i can just keep pushing the button but its a pain while I'm turning.

any advice.. will take some pics later
 
you need to add a blinker switch in there bud to give and remove power,,, hitting the button over and over is just a bit ghetto
 
It definitely sucks..

Was the old blinker switch held in the blinker itself that i removed or in the controls?

All i did was cut the wire and wire in my new blinkers.
 
Were the lights you bought LED's? If so, you'll need to replace the stock analog flasher relay wth a digital flasher relay. If they're not LED's and are incandescant bulbs like the stockers, it could be that you have a bad flasher relay. Were the previous turnsignals working properly?
 
Yea they were working fine.. I put the back blinker on first and they were blinking. They only stopped when i took off its counterpart up front..

But good news. My tach light is now working after i made the switch. Weird?
 
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