Boil yer nutz!!!!?

Hey force! I have the same problem with that site as Fastenal! I have to order in Qty of 25! What the fuck will I do with the other 21 that I don't need in that pack! Some of these I would be ok ordering a lot of 25 so I could just stock the overages for the next build, but some I may never use again! I can't see buying 25 when I need 4! That gets way too expensive! I will use the site for some stuff and thanks for your help.
 
Just built my entire order and it would have cost me around $60 not counting shipping, and I would have tons of left over shit!

You were right though, some were sold in 5 or 10 qty. the buttons are in packs of 25!

Still good pricing and a great sight!
 
hillsy said:
Build some more bikes ;D
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+1

Couldn't you and Alex split the cost on this? Seems like you guys aren't quitting building anytime soon.....

Either way, let us know how your oily nuts turn out!
 
I don't know about splitting the cost... but I'd gladly take the extras for free. :p
And seasoning nuts?!?! I have to agree with Amy. That's insane.
Seriously though if you are going to get some stainless and have lots left over I would be game to help subsidize your costs. SS hardware is always nice to have around.
 
All you did was lower the rating of the bolts. Your grade 8s are now somewhere between an 8 and a 5. Anytime you heat a bolt you affect the factory heat treating to some degree.

Fastenal? Why? You can get most of what you are looking for from the specialty bins at Lowes, Home Depot, Ace and True Value. Add in some side trips to Auto Zone, DAP, CSK, NAPA or CarQuest and you will have it all, in stainless, to and including brake bleeder screws. Most available single or 4 piece blister packs.

The only place you need hardened bolts is the shock mounting and in the engine. Shock bolts should be grade 5, not grade 8, you need torsional strength, and 8s can snap pretty quick under side loading. Even fullsize truck IFS systems mount with grade 5 from the factory.

Push come to shove, check out the online catalog for A.R.P., they sell stainless fasteners in the 190,000 psi break/stretch strength range. That is there standard, you can get stronger if you want to spend the extra change.
 
thanatos said:
Just out of curiousity, what are you using the SS for? And furthermore, why?
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Because I live on the Gulf Coast! Humitiy is at or above 70% year round, we get almost five ft. of rain per year ( only a few mile as the crow flies from Mobile, AL which recieves more rainfall per year than any city in the US), our average temps in the summer is in the low 90's F day time and low 70's F night. Winters are very mild and still humid! All of this and not to mention you can throw a rock from my shop and hit the gulf (salt water)! What does all this mean, I need something that resist rust well! So, SS it is! Or pull some tricks out of my hat!
Scruffy said:
All you did was lower the rating of the bolts. Your grade 8s are now somewhere between an 8 and a 5. Anytime you heat a bolt you affect the factory heat treating to some degree.
Fastenal? Why? You can get most of what you are looking for from the specialty bins at Lowes, Home Depot, Ace and True Value. Add in some side trips to Auto Zone, DAP, CSK, NAPA or CarQuest and you will have it all, in stainless, to and including brake bleeder screws. Most available single or 4 piece blister packs.
The only place you need hardened bolts is the shock mounting and in the engine. Shock bolts should be grade 5, not grade 8, you need torsional strength, and 8s can snap pretty quick under side loading. Even fullsize truck IFS systems mount with grade 5 from the factory.
Push come to shove, check out the online catalog for A.R.P., they sell stainless fasteners in the 190,000 psi break/stretch strength range. That is there standard, you can get stronger if you want to spend the extra change.
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I don't really care about changing the strength first of all, for the reasons you mentioned, I don't need it that strong, I am trying to get something that will resist rusting that is available and cheap. Second, by raising the temp to 500*F, I doubt I changed its strength at all, in some heavy equiptment these type of bolts would regularlly reach these temps and cool again! Why Fastenal, because they carry tons more than your big box stores, they are just as close to me, and they are cheaper by far! Why would I run all over town to find what I need and pay more!

Now, to those who are interested, the "seasoning apears to have worked for now. I won't know for sure until the long term testing of them in use takes place, but they do repell water when you run water on them. They also have a wet look to them much like my well seasoned casrt iron skillet. What I am doing is an experiment! I hope it works, but it may not. I seem to be getting grilled on it. Why does it seem that when someone thinks outside the box on here lately, a mob tries to destroy the actions! Nay-saying only fuels me to try again. I actually think it will work, but I still want to use stainless and will probably just spend the extra cash to get it.

“If you don’t try you may never know! If you don’t like it FUCK OFF!” tWistedWheelz
middle-finger-1.jpg
 
the deepfried nuts thing isnt as crazy as it sounds - my materials engineering shop class, we quenched our high speed steel pieces in oil. as far as i know, it was just cutting fluid.
that shit (a vice i made top to bottom) took ages to rust, but it was kept indoors and did eventually rust anyway.
anyone done any home nickel plating? :)
 
so use stainless on the parts that you want to be pretty. use grade 8 black uglies on the parts that you dont. they come in packs that are too big for your needs, just means youll have extras when they rust or oxidize.

my belief with the trying to season the bolts is that cast iron skillets retain the oil because thats basically how theyre designed. they heat up, the oil comes out of the metal, they cool down, the oil goes back in. thats why you dont wash a cast iron skillet, or you gotta start all over again. seems like if you heat the bolt or get it wet the oil will be gone and then youre hosed. maybe with the tighter pores on the steel it wont be as easy to release. hell i dunno.
 
roadrage41 said:
so use stainless on the parts that you want to be pretty. use grade 8 black uglies on the parts that you dont. they come in packs that are too big for your needs, just means youll have extras when they rust or oxidize.

my belief with the trying to season the bolts is that cast iron skillets retain the oil because thats basically how theyre designed. they heat up, the oil comes out of the metal, they cool down, the oil goes back in. thats why you dont wash a cast iron skillet, or you gotta start all over again. seems like if you heat the bolt or get it wet the oil will be gone and then youre hosed. maybe with the tighter pores on the steel it wont be as easy to release. hell i dunno.
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Well I donno either, thats why I had to give it a whirl! As far as stainless goes, I will most likely use SS everywhere. My plan as of now is just use whatever I can and record the sizes. Then for final asymbly I am just going to order all the SS that I need before I start and use them!
 
http://www.boeshield.com/

this stuff seems to get good reviews from the bicycle crowd. never used it personally, but the small bottle is cheap enough.
 
I know the thread is old now but...

Do you ever get over to Gulfport or Biloxi? A couple of the old time boat suppliers had metric marine grade stainless and silicone-bronze hardware. Maybe the shops out toward Dauphine Island will have them as well. If it is good enough for the shrimpers...

We left Long Beach MS in July 99 for the wife's family farm outside Memphis. While still at the coast I pulled the fender rails from my 98 Savage (kept outside 1 and 1/2 blocks off the beach) and they were rotted almost all the way through already. Gotta love salt air and high humidity on cheap ass soft chrome.

Side note, if the micro-rally still happens at the fort, and you see Southern Coast Riders MS chapter, find Jimbo and kick him for me. Hard.
 
Sure thing scruffy! good advise!

Just to update you guys, I have had the hardware out in the elements for over a week. One new un-treated grade 8, one new standard grade 5, and my treated grade 8; grade 5 already has nice surface rust all over it almost, the untreated has some rust color residue in small spots on it, treat has no noticable change! Too early to take praise, but it is looking better than un-treated already!
 
Twisted--do you still need some fasteners? My uncle owns a bolt shop and stocks alot of SS metric fasteners. What do you need specifically? If it is not a ton of items, I can grab some and send em to ya. Hope this helps.
 
rizzlo34 said:
Twisted--do you still need some fasteners? My uncle owns a bolt shop and stocks alot of SS metric fasteners. What do you need specifically? If it is not a ton of items, I can grab some and send em to ya. Hope this helps.
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Fuckin right on! I will get you the short list of SS stuff that is hard for me to find in small qty! If you can help that would be great man! I will PM you tonight!
 
The oil bake is an old machinist's thing. I actually ran into it in a couple of old machinist textbooks. I've done it on random hardware on old machines around my workshop. I've got a scavenged toaster oven for doing it. If you want a really black look, get some used diesel engine oil. I haven't done it, but it probably stinks to high Hell.

I used clean straight-weight non-detergent oil last time and got a semi-transparent oily sheen that looks pretty cool.
 
One word: acf-50.

One application, once a year, never deal with corrosion ever again.
 
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