Bondo like material to create/form trim pieces?

w8lifter21

Active Member
Let me preface that I am taking a break from working on my bikes and this is for getting my stereo into my 300zx. I know it's car related but there are a lot of you out there with fab experience based on some of the builds I see 8)

Factory set up is like this. Two split bays, one for the radio and one for a pocket/cubby.
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The JDM 300zx/Fairlady Z has an OEM piece that accomodates a double din(2 bay) sized stereo. However I am not willing to fork over $400 for the OEM piece, or $300 for the piece that a small US based company makes. I have more time than money :).
2din_cover_nomal.jpg


I have two options that I am considering, but that would require two different types of materials I believe.

Option 1: Mount the radio the way it comes OEM which would mean removing the pocket, and using the metal factory brackets, then cutting out the center "bar" of the black plastic trip piece to allow the radio to pass through, resulting in a temporary look like this:
2qlcu9t.jpg


With the end result looking something like this:
2din_cover_nomal.jpg


Option 2: Take the same plastic trim piece as at the very top, cut the same ceter piece out, only instead of making the radio "recessed" using the OEM mounting brackets and filling in the sides of the trim piece, use a stronger bondo type material to make the trim piece completely flat, and use the supplied mounting cage and make the radio flush mount on the trim piece.
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Resulting in a final product something like this:
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Personally I like the look of Option 1 better, but while I am a very experienced car audio installer, I am noobish when it comes to using bondo, fiberglass, etc to make custom pieces, molds, etc. Thoughts, opinions on what materials I could/should use or look into and or how to tackle this project?
 
I think I would go "option 1."

Cut the center bar flush with the angle of the trim piece, then use fiberglass cloth on the back side (2 or 3 layers should be more than enough). Don't use the polyester resin you will find at most automotive stores however. Instead, use the epoxy resin like you can get at your local West Marine store. The product is called "West Systems," and, though expensive, it is good stuff.

Make sure you sand the back of the trim piece where you are going to fiberglass. Pretty much nothing sticks to smooth plastic!

Once you have created a backing with the fiberglass, sand the front of the trim, beveling the edges down to the fiberglass layer. For the first and thickest coat, I would use Duraglass, or some other fiberglass reenforced body filler. Sand that down, then fill any remaining spots with regular body filler.
 
Great info and thanks for the reply!

Do I have to worry about either type of resin making a chemical reaction with the plastic? I know it gets warm when you're adding hardener to the resin.
 
w8lifter21 said:
Great info and thanks for the reply!

Do I have to worry about either type of resin making a chemical reaction with the plastic? I know it gets warm when you're adding hardener to the resin.

As long as you don't over catalyze it, you shouldn't have any trouble. The polyester probably gets hotter when curing, but I don't think either will hurt the trim piece.

If you go to you local West Marine, West Systems sells a small book on using their system. It's a great little book (I buy one every few years due to loss or having destroyed the old one).
 
Buy the "sampler" kit from West Marine, will be about double the required material, and has components that take the place of messy, stinky, shrink happy body fillers. Haven't used that kit in better than a decade, but, it is GOOD STUFF. Probably has to be special ordered, mine was.
 
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