buffing recommendations

[msimm43]

I have yet to try my hand at buffing, but I have just about convinced myself that I should be able to see my reflection in all the shiny bits on my project bike. I have seen a few posts that recommend using a high speed drill with buffing wheel attachments, and I was wondering what the general feeling is on this. Is it better to get a bench grinder, or a more maneuverable drill? Keep in mind that I do not own either at the moment, so usefulness over the long run is a consideration.

Thanks
Matt

 

[Shooter]

You need a grunty bench Grinder with at least 8" cloth wheels. ( Too small and they wont get the job done)

Get some buffing sticks, some eye protection and get to it.

Its very easy and satisfying.

 

[msimm43]

Thanks for the advice. Now I just need to find the right grinder. Any advice on brand and HP?

 

[rockcitycafe]

Thanks for the advice. Now I just need to find the right grinder. Any advice on brand and HP?

anything american, and 3/4 is good for 8" wheels. I'd stay away from china, I bought one because it was soooooo damn cheap and i already have a sears model... big mistake, a year in and the bearings failed.

oh and check this place out: www.caswellplating.com

and my tips for doing aluminum-first you have to get the clearcoat off, because all the bike makers coated their aluminum, and that stuff will just melt to your wheel if you just try to buff it... start with some blue 3m abrasive wheels, that will get the clear off, and go gentle with it so you don't dig too deep in the metal, next use some 400 grit sandpaper, either by hand and wet, or if you have a padded wheel for your grinder or polisher, sticky spray a circle of paper to that and sand the aluminum until it's all a dull flat finish, now either hit it with some 1000 grit, or you can just start buffing with black compound and a hard wheel, but honestly hit with 1000 and you'll save a lot of buffing time. another nice tool is a "scuffing" wheel from caswell, it's really good for getting stuff out of contoured spaces and will give a good flat finish ready for buffing. and once you're done wiht the black compound, get another wheel and go with white compound to get a really crazy finish

 

[msimm43]

Thanks for the tips. It will be a big help.

One question for you. Instead of taking the clear coat off with an abrasive wheel, could I just use a paint stripper? Once the stripper is washed off, then I would use the sandpaper and go to the buffer.

Again, thanks for all the help everybody.

Matt

 

[mysta2]

It's normally anodized which paint stripper wont work on... Oven cleaner will decimate it though. I'm on the fence on weather or not it pits the aluminum too though.

 

[Tim]

I had my XS650 alloy rims stripped of the anodizing before polishing. I paid to have it done, but there are DIY descriptions on the web on how to strip anodizing.

 

[zixxerboy]

i posted earlier a pic of the simple buffer i made from an old furnace motor - works great!!

 

[msimm43]

rockcitycafe, when I do a search for "blue 3m abrasive wheels" I get about a million different results. Rather then getting the wrong item and making a rather unpleasant mistake, is it possible you could give me a link to the wheel you are referring to?

Thanks,
Matt

 

[Tim]

Another handy tool is known as a 'sanding mop'. Google that and you'll see what is meant. Good for odd shaped bits (like almost everything).

 

[msimm43]

Thanks for the sanding mop lead. Just to be clear, I would use that for taking off the clearcoat? Also, if I am just taking off the clear coat would I want to use higher grit (180-220) ?

Sorry for all of the questions. This will be my first attempt at the buffing process. All of your help is greatly appreciated.

Matt

 

[killerdwarf]

I polished the wheel edges on my 2000 Honda VTR. They were clear coated, and definately NOT anodized. Strip the clear with paint remover. You may have to do it a couple of times, or even wear good rubber gloves and scrub the clearcoat and remover with scotchbrite to remove some of the real stubborn left over clear. DO NOT use sand paper!!!! I did that to try and rush things. It took me more time to remove the fine scratches from the sandpaper than anything!! The shinier the aluminum got, the more the scratches appeared, and I used a very fine grit. Test your parts first with some stripper (not the stripper from the bar down the street either, but I am sure some of them could remove any coating from any metel with just a simple dip!) If clear coat is removed, your'e good to go. If no stripper is removed, and polishing does not improve the shine, it is more than likely anodized. Oven cleaner does remove some of the anodizing but not all of it. Emery cloth, and elbow polish is needed. I have seen either clear, or clear anodizing used, but in my experiences never both together from the factory.