Cable building?? Any one??
- Thread starter diesel450
- Start date
Ethanol
Coast to Coast
Well some people might cringe but I've found if you get the correct snip/splicer tool it's not too hard to cut cables and crimp on new end caps.
Then cut your cable to length and use a solderless nipple. I've never had a problem with them but some people get freaked out by the idea.
I might be hesitant to use it on a brake cable but other than that I don't see any problem.
Then cut your cable to length and use a solderless nipple. I've never had a problem with them but some people get freaked out by the idea.
I might be hesitant to use it on a brake cable but other than that I don't see any problem.
Ethanol
Coast to Coast
They use them on Vespas for everything. They come in a ton of different sizes and I've never had one fail.
http://www.sip-scootershop.com/Products/94230000/Details.aspx
Also man I don't think solder will hold very well at all. I'd be super careful about that. Solder's meant for wiring not to be pulled on etc..
http://www.sip-scootershop.com/Products/94230000/Details.aspx
Also man I don't think solder will hold very well at all. I'd be super careful about that. Solder's meant for wiring not to be pulled on etc..
pawn
Over 1,000 Posts
there is various types of solder, not all meant for wiring. However, the solder used on cable ends, is. If you leave some extra cable through the end, the untwist and spread out, then heat the solder through the cable till you just see it through the other side, then grind a bit down you will be fine. That is how my cable were shortened. Unfortunately for me the cable end on the throttle did not fail, but the split into two did, which was stock.Ethanol said:
Ethanol said:
Bicycle brake cable and motorbike throttle cables are the same gauge. Same as PJ, I've been using these for years (cost me $8 for my dual throttle set up on the XT500 ;D)
Motorbike brake and clutch cables are heavier gauge - you can buy generic cable kits from a lot of bike dealers.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
That makes sense
I forgot some people would be dumb enough to try and use bicycle cables for clutch and brake (scary thought
)
1/16" cable I use has sustained load of 80lbs and breaks around 220lbs (never tested it to find out)
forget numbers for 1/8" aircraft cable, somewhere around 800~1200lbs I think?
I forgot some people would be dumb enough to try and use bicycle cables for clutch and brake (scary thought
)1/16" cable I use has sustained load of 80lbs and breaks around 220lbs (never tested it to find out)
forget numbers for 1/8" aircraft cable, somewhere around 800~1200lbs I think?
crazypj said:That makes sense
I forgot some people would be dumb enough to try and use bicycle cables for clutch and brake (scary thought
1/16" cable I use has sustained load of 80lbs and breaks around 220lbs (never tested it to find out)
forget numbers for 1/8" aircraft cable, somewhere around 800~1200lbs I think?
yerp, fine for throttle cable. ive seen people use them on clutch; they will break. hell, ive snapped cables on my bicycles, even ones in relatively good condition. for throttle its fine though.
i mean really... dont skimp on any part of a bike thats functional. its fucking stupid and will end up costing you more in the end.
VonYinzer
Over 10,000 Posts
crazypj said:That makes sense
I forgot some people would be dumb enough to try and use bicycle cables for clutch and brake (scary thought
1/16" cable I use has sustained load of 80lbs and breaks around 220lbs (never tested it to find out)
forget numbers for 1/8" aircraft cable, somewhere around 800~1200lbs I think?
Always need to rmember the lowest common denominator...
I only meant that if I went in to a shop with the the stuff they might save me buying a cutter etc.
Since you all have such great ideas heres the situation. I need a new brake cable for the 200. its an odd set up with a spring mounted on the cable inside the adjuster nipple at the end that goes into the caliper. I ordered what appeared to be the right cable pictures looked good and the description said it would fit the 200. what arrived is a cable that says its for the 175. It looks exactly the same with the same nipples etc. except it does not have this spring on it. So, my thought was that instead of sending it back and searching for the right one losing time and money I would cut one end off and put the spring on and resolder an end on. sound reasonable?
Since you all have such great ideas heres the situation. I need a new brake cable for the 200. its an odd set up with a spring mounted on the cable inside the adjuster nipple at the end that goes into the caliper. I ordered what appeared to be the right cable pictures looked good and the description said it would fit the 200. what arrived is a cable that says its for the 175. It looks exactly the same with the same nipples etc. except it does not have this spring on it. So, my thought was that instead of sending it back and searching for the right one losing time and money I would cut one end off and put the spring on and resolder an end on. sound reasonable?
It's good to see old techniques and skills coming back.
Go to http://www.flanderscables.com/ and check out which new cable and end fittings you need. The trick as mentioned earlier is to splay the end of the cable out so it makes a ball in the outer side of the nipple. That way the solder doesn't so much stick the nipple on but makes a wedge that can't pull through.
Go to http://www.flanderscables.com/ and check out which new cable and end fittings you need. The trick as mentioned earlier is to splay the end of the cable out so it makes a ball in the outer side of the nipple. That way the solder doesn't so much stick the nipple on but makes a wedge that can't pull through.
