muskywhisperr
Active Member
Just wondering if it is possible to run my 1975 Honda cl360 with out a battery and make it a kick only bike, Thanks.
Can a cl360 run without a battery?
- Thread starter muskywhisperr
- Start date
rabbit_CL350K4
New Member
Yes it can. you will want to turn all of the lights off and i would recommend push starting it in 2nd gear if you know how to. Kick starting mine is not nearly as easy as my XL185. you Should Not ride it on main roads! it will be more likely to stall due to the stators lack of muscle. You definitely want a fresh battery
Fox
I've still got those patches...
It's possible yes, but I can't say I'd recommend it. You're better off just getting a small closed cell batter and stashing it under your seat. You can get something pretty darn small these days.
The better question is, Why are you wanting to run it without a battery, and what other electrical components do you want to run?
The better question is, Why are you wanting to run it without a battery, and what other electrical components do you want to run?
muskywhisperr
Active Member
I wanted the bike to have as few components as possible, but it sounds as though its not worth it. Im not familiar with what a closed cell battery is so i will check into that. Oh well, my shins will thank me ;D
rollinsolo said:
Even if you remove the battery and replace with a capacitor, you'd still need all the other electrical components from the charging system to keep the bike running properly. The battery only really exists to provide a jolt to the ignition and starter motor when starting the bike (even if kick only you still need that jolt - your stock rotor/stator do not provide enough to fire up the bike - that's why you'd need a capacitor in the battery's place). At low RPM also the battery serves to keep the lights lit when the engine isn't producing enough voltage to both light the bike and charge the battery.
The best option - not the cheapest but the best - is a Lithium battery from the likes of Shorai. You can get one that matches or bests your stock battery capacity in a much much smaller lighter package. I run one on my kick-only XS650 and have it hidden under the bump of my seat. Weighs like 1 pound and is very small.
Creative types delve into all sorts of other types of small batteries not originally designed for motorcycles.
Really the only reason to do all of this is if you're going to re-wire the bike and relocate all the electrical components to clean up the area under the seat and run without side covers etc. If you're not doing that, stick with the battery in the stock location. Otherwise, do what I did, and re-wire the bike from scratch and hide all the electrical components. In my kick-only case that's a combined regulator/rectifier under the seat, ignition switch under the seat, battery under the seat hump. No starter solenoid of course, no starter motor, coils and horn up under the tank, flasher relay in the headlight bucket.
muskywhisperr
Active Member
Thanks much tim, and any additional info on what exactly i would need and or a wiring diagrahm is helpful cuz this is my first bike build and am learning as I go.This is the most recent pic I have but will be going no side covers and pod air filters. The bow with the maltese cross is the battery box i built out of aluminum at work and it doesnt look bad. However it is so much cleaner looking without it. Found a guy on here last night that specializes in jetting and rebuilding 360 carbs so those are on there way to florida tomorrow. Wish i was riding it instead of researching but the wait and work will be worth it.
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Oh - and FWIW for the last couple of years I've run the bike on a single 10A fuse, but this season I've blown it 2x. I added turn signals, and a Shorai Lithium battery. Not sure if I had a bit of a short, but something isn't right somewhere. I am currently blaming the signal switch, as now the left side won't power on, so I'm thinking there's a problem in the switch shorting out and blowing the fuse. So I'm not using the signals at the moment and need to open up the switch and see if I can rebuild it or might replace it.
In the meantime I've put a 20A fuse in it, just in case it was just drawing a tad more amps than it used to. If you can swing a Shorai battery, they're pretty slick and small and light. But there are smaller options like I say before.
In the meantime I've put a 20A fuse in it, just in case it was just drawing a tad more amps than it used to. If you can swing a Shorai battery, they're pretty slick and small and light. But there are smaller options like I say before.
muskywhisperr
Active Member
Thanks tim for all the info, its much appreciated. And yes i will be putting springs under the seat in a couple weeks along with 4 gussets to strengthen the frame.
