Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
I did get the pulser generator cover off. The timing light isn't firing fast enough for me to see the markings. It's only firing like once every 2 seconds. Does the bike have to be running? The manual says so, idling around 1000rpm.
I did get the pulser generator cover off. The timing light isn't firing fast enough for me to see the markings. It's only firing like once every 2 seconds. Does the bike have to be running? The manual says so, idling around 1000rpm.
it took a bit of elbow grease to get the head cover off. the guy before me had overcoated it in some kind of sticky black/grey substance. i'm guessing because he didn't want to buy a new gasket..
anyways, even upon first inspection, some of the measurements of the valve lash are certainly off. (did i word that sentence properly?)
time to get my spreadsheet out and the micrometer and start measuring. gosh i hope i can tell the difference when she finally fires up and lets me take her for a ride. she was running 'perfectly' right before i put her away for the winter..
a 30lb reading low compression is not caused by a typical valve lash issue, that is a loose valve clearance or a slightly tight one
it could be caused by a stuck/bent valve or a horribly tight valve but you gotta have a helluva leak...... good luck i hope it is not serious....
if you do have a very large clearance on that low cylinder then it is stuck or bent
a 30lb reading low compression is not caused by a typical valve lash issue, that is a loose valve clearance or a slightly tight one
it could be caused by a stuck/bent valve or a horribly tight valve but you gotta have a helluva leak...... good luck i hope it is not serious....
if you do have a very large clearance on that low cylinder then it is stuck or bent
you don't even need any marks just measure the clearance when the lobe is opposite the shim bucket and it doesn't need to be exactly opposite anywhere on the heel/base circle of the cam
that is what is nice and easy about this type of motor you can really see what you are doing
right, so you measure the gap when the lobes of the cams are perpendicular to the bucket and shims? when the center of the heel is against the bucket and shim?
anywhere on the heel just have the lobes pointing away from the shim it is called the base "circle" because it is a concentric partial circle hence the clearance is the same anywhere on that heel until the ramps come into play
it is not necceasary to be in an EXACT position
anywhere on the heel just have the lobes pointing away from the shim it is called the base "circle" because it is a concentric partial circle hence the clearance is the same anywhere on that heel
it is not necceasary to be in an EXACT position
Back to square 1. Timing looks great. Valve clearance all done. I actually forgot to check compression which I'll do next.
It just won't start..
It makes sounds like when you try and start it and don't realize you still have the kill switch in the 'OFF' position. It sounds perfect all the way around, it just won't kick.
Tiny tiny little gas leak on one of the float bowl gaskets which I've tried to fix twice already. I just wanted to hear her fire up before I take the carb off for the 3 time today..
Since last time I checked compression, I have done valve clearance. Does the manual say that low compression could be a leaky cylinder head gasket?
The gasket that was one there was absolutely covered in gasket sealer. I mean its everywhere. Ugly and everywhere. Also, when taking the head off, the Tach cable screw is completely stripped. It moves all the way in and out with my fingers. This was also covered in gasket sealer.
Can the tach screw being loose completely eliminate the seal on the cylinder head cover? I'm guessing yes.
Wtf do I do about it being completely stripped?
Take the head cover off again and tread the hole one more size up and get a new screw?
Also the cylinder head screw on Intake 4 is not totally stripped, but when it gets screwed all the way down, it slips and pops, and won't allow me to give that last little bit of tight that I feel like it needs.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.