Rocan said:
no way man! you work for them?
No I don't "work" for them, but I have been riding my whole life... a couple buddies started it a few years ago and I have worked with them giving pointers, testing, and throwin my .02 around. I used to mountain board semi-competitively so the theories and physics are the same for the most part.
As far as boards go, The camber between the trucks is a large part of the locomotion of the board. (high rebound bushings or springs in the trucks, as well as the side to side movement of high rebound wheels contribute as well and should be used in conjunction for maximum effect).
Pre-cambering the board results in a specific amount of potential energy embedded in the board. Flattening out the camber when standing on the board implies that pressure equal to rider weight is pressing back up. In technical terms, the board at this point is 'dynamically loaded'.
So what the heck am I talking about? Picture this, bombing a hill and going fast (normally faster than you should ;D
) you are into your first turn, and bending your knees, using the g-force in addition to your weight to push down on the deck so that it’s negatively cambered. As you come outta the turn you will straighten your legs and the board will rebound back at you with most of the energy you pushed down with.
I am sure you know this already but a softer flex pattern will give you more control and tighter turns at a wide range of speeds, but tends to lose stability slightly at higher speeds. Stiffer flex means more energy potential and more stability at higher speeds, but will not be as forgiving and lively when cruising.
So where am I going with all this... ??? basically concave cambers: makes the board more responsive with increased control. Compound contours: stiffen the board for higher energy potential.
Alright i will finish up saying that, while you can build a fun board, and the built not bought thing is definitely worth trying, there is a reason why I do not ride boards that I make anymore. Also when building a good carving board think snowboard, not skateboard.
You really want to use bamboo for the core. It is strong as crap and offers good flex, but most importantly has excellent 'memory' but you need vertical laminates to keep rigidity. You want to sandwich your core with heavyweight glass (a combo of Diagonal and longitudinal axis glass fiber weave for best results) this wil give you good length and torsional stiffness (hahaha, that made me laugh ;D ;D) Carbon fiber also works great as a stringer as it is super light and can add lots of stiffness ( there it is again, and again I am giggling ;D, i guess I have a dirty mind.) It also ensures that you will not break the board under load. You might think that that would be impossible, but at 30+ mph tons of forces are at play and poorly made boards can shatter which is no fun.
Shit I just realized I have been typing for 40 min... This really was not meant to stray you away from building, just to give you some info. I know you backed out of the snowboard thing ( I have built those too) but a good skate is very similar to a snowboard. ok you get the idea, now go build away... Like I said, let me know if you have questions... I have done this once or twice ;D the main thing is to approach it safely.
PS Anything that you ride that sees speeds in excess of 50+mph really needs to be approached with caution, skates are no exception.