CB 350 Steering Damper

[cgguy09]

Hey there Luchas Libres,
So I wanted to put a seat belt on my 71 CB350 k3, but it messed up the look. So I decided to move ahead with the steering damper instead.
I did the measurements, it can't be more than 300mm (it'll bump into the engine) and it needs to reach atleast 80 mm for the full reach.
My bike has the stock holes for the item so I intend to use the transverse hole through the frame and the vertical hole in the lower triple tree.
I intend to purchase this bad boy:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270mm-Steering-Damper-Stabilizer-Honda-cb125-cb750-cb550-cb500-cb750-cb350-/270934151098?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D5228096724851723906%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D270934151098%26
or this one:
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-suspension-steering-parts-universal-steering-damper-32-0082.html

The Ebay one is alot cheaper but I didn't see any reviews on it. I trust DCC, but it'll be $50.00 more (with shipping) all said & done.

I've seen alot of threads on this but didn't find a straight answer.

Thanks in advance, Champions.

 

[DrJ]

The ebay damper is probably Chinese so quality won't be top shelf. The DCC damper is a Japanese NHK steel body, good quality but the body mount is welded, it isn't slideable so mounting is not as versatile as the ebay damper.

 

[cgguy09]

Actually the website notes "This is good quality product. Not is HONG KONG/CHINA item." That's right folks, made in Thiland...so its way way better.
No, good point DrJ. you get what you pay for...
I put a call into DCC if the part fits a stock cb350 triple tree and frame. No word back yet, but their pretty good at getting back.
I'll let you guys know which way I go.

 

[cgguy09]

I think Wu Tang Clan said it best "Cash rules everything around me." I went wit the ebay item. I'll post up a review when I get it and install it.

 

[blueandy]

what i did was buy a hyabusa damper. i know it might be a little bigger than what a 360 may need, but if it goes on a hyabusa from the factory it surely must be decent. ive actually had it up for sale, id have to dig around to see if i can find it . it was polished . must have been off a hyabusa with a gator seat, stretched swingarm , 100 dollar bills painted on the tank, and the rider wears a skullet helmet with a point. you know, one of thooose types of bikes.

 

[cgguy09]

Champions I received the part from the Far East. It arrived intact and in good condition.
It seems like a pretty sturdy part, has a good weight to it (and when things are heavier they are better...right?)

The only problem is the Eyebolt to attach to the frame is short, approximately 5 cm long. The bike requires about 8cm to all the way through.
-sad face-

The eye bolt as can be seen in the next post has a nifty little bearing in the middle that would be good to have. I'm wrote the company to see if they had a longer one. We'll see what they say.

Otherwise I guess I'll just go to the store and get a longer eye bolt. Does anyone know where I can get one with a bearing in it like this one?

I'll let you know how the install goes.

 

[cgguy09]

The first one is a picture of the eye bolt.
The second is of me installing the part on the bike

 

[Scruffy]

Little toy rod ends? Tractor Supply Company. John Deere. Kubota. Better quality hardware stores. Higher end auto parts stores. They aren't hard to find. Unless it is reverse thread... you can find them easily enough, but you'd best grease up your rear end before the counter totals up the price, you're gonna get screwed...

Just kidding on the grease, reverse thread is usually only a buck or 2 more.

 

[cgguy09]

Little toy rod ends? Tractor Supply Company. John Deere. Kubota. Better quality hardware stores. Higher end auto parts stores. They aren't hard to find. Unless it is reverse thread... you can find them easily enough, but you'd best grease up your rear end before the counter totals up the price, you're gonna get screwed...

Just kidding on the grease, reverse thread is usually only a buck or 2 more.

Thanks for the info, I'll do a little searching today & see what I can pull up. I'm willing to be bet NAPA and the HomeDepot wouldn't have them in supply...online might the way to go.

 

[cgguy09]

Do those things have a proper name? I took it to my local NAPA & Homedepot & they didn't have it & they didn't know the name. I've been doing some research online for "eyebolt and bearing" "eyebolt with bearing" eyebolt bearing assembly" nothing turned up...

Not trying to ask anyone to do my homework for me, just trying to get on the proper fotting.

 

[Moa]

I believe they are called rod end bearings.

 

[Sonreir]

Rose joints or Heim joints, depending on where you come from.

 

[cgguy09]

Hey homies,
I felt I owed this thread an update because I'm sure there are those who can benefit. As mentioned I went with the ebay version which was about half the price of other dampers. I'm not normally one to shed price, but I figured this would be worth a shot.

After 300 miles the damper works great. I can really notice a difference when riding, especially on the highway. I ussually keep the damper on the greatest resistance (7). Admittedly, I wouldn't mind a little more resistance and that's likely where the name brand damper's offered by DCC and other sites would be better.

Overall I give it an 8 out of 10...and a would recomend it to others.

Some notes:
As mentioned in the thread, the rod end bearing is about ~2cm short from fitting in the cb350 stock damper hole. This is a quick $12.00 fix that doesn't require any modification to the part. Simply pick up a cupler nut from Granger or a similar store and pair it up with the same size bolt. Measure the length of the hole ( I think the length varies by model year), buy the appropriate bolt, run the bolt through the hole, attach the coupler nut, and screw in the damper's rod end bearing. This kicks the damper out about about 4 cm, but the product works all the same.

I can't remember the exact bolt couple specifications, but I'm pretty sure it was a M10 or M12 with a standard pitch. The coupler nut is about $10.00.

I'll slap on some pics, because I know everyone likes those.

Again, after 300 miles I'm happy.

Hugs & kisses,
cFogs

 

[phaetn]

Based on your experience, I tried this product and installation.

I had a tough time getting an M8 coupler nut; frankly, I wasn't that thrilled with the idea of using it as I knew if would be a stressed point.

So I ended up looking at the mounting point more closely and discovered in between the two tabs (R and L side of the frame) it's just a narrow tube, with some clearance above it before the frame's own down tube. I figured if I got rid of it, then I could attach the eyebolt itself directly.

It took some work with a dremel (really not enough cutting force) an angle grinder (too big for the space) and a trial with a reciprocating saw (not enough space for the blade to go back and forth) and finally back to the dremel to get the tube sufficiently cut out to fit a nut in there.

At the end of the day it worked with no long bolt or coupler required. That said. it's a very tight fit for the damper at that location. The clamp on the damper has to be riiiight at the end of it or there's not enough travel to turn the handlebars to the right very much.

I think I put it too close to the end (even overhanging the housing a bit), so this was stressing the whole unit - effectively squeezing a weak point -- and I ruined the seal on that end. Now at setting 4 or above oil leaks outs and makes a horrible squelching sound. It might be the cheap product, or it may be the way I mounted it put too much stress on it.

I'll see if they'll replace it or I might go with a Japanese better quality product like the ODM500 and -- since it's mounting point is fixed -- just use a clamp on the down tube like Barty did:

Ah jeez sorry it took so long to get this posted, been super busy. This is how I finally installed mine. The bracket holds very well and is super stable. I'm not worried about it snapping off or twisting at all. Another option I thought about was to drill and tap the frame tube right where that bracket is and just screw the damper right into the tapped hole. I still may, but I like how this turned out.

Now

 

[cgguy09]

Based on your experience, I tried this product and installation.

I had a tough time getting an M8 coupler nut; frankly, I wasn't that thrilled with the idea of using it as I knew if would be a stressed point.

So I ended up looking at the mounting point more closely and discovered in between the two tabs (R and L side of the frame) it's just a narrow tube, with some clearance above it before the frame's own down tube. I figured if I got rid of it, then I could attach the eyebolt itself directly.

It took some work with a dremel (really not enough cutting force) an angle grinder (too big for the space) and a trial with a reciprocating saw (not enough space for the blade to go back and forth) and finally back to the dremel to get the tube sufficiently cut out to fit a nut in there.

At the end of the day it worked with no long bolt or coupler required. That said. it's a very tight fit for the damper at that location. The clamp on the damper has to be riiiight at the end of it or there's not enough travel to turn the handlebars to the right very much.

I think I put it too close to the end (even overhanging the housing a bit), so this was stressing the whole unit - effectively squeezing a weak point -- and I ruined the seal on that end. Now at setting 4 or above oil leaks outs and makes a horrible squelching sound. It might be the cheap product, or it may be the way I mounted it put too much stress on it.

I'll see if they'll replace it or I might go with a Japanese better quality product like the ODM500 and -- since it's mounting point is fixed -- just use a clamp on the down tube like Barty did:



Now

I'm sorry to hear that, brother. I'm sure these products are either good or shit. Mine's been god up to this point. I'm especially sorry to hear it failed after you went to all that trouble.

I know DCC has a product that's about $90.00 (NKG I think) it's a good product I know a few people have it.

 

[phaetn]

The good news is I'm getting a replacement gratis. I think I might have caused the fault based on where I squeezed the cylinder with the clamp.

When the new one comes in I'll try mounting it as Barty did on his images, above, with the new clamp I've since ordered. That will hopefully have the additional benefit of allowing more travel so I'll actually be able to go lock-to-lock with the handlebars. Right now it's very limited to the right because the mounting point is so far forward.

If the new clamp doesn't work for some reason then I'll go back to my current attachment points, seen here:

Thanks for being the inspiration for me to try this!

Cheers,
phaetn

 

[Bert Jan]

the clamp around the frame is way to small/thin/weak to help you in any case the damper would be handy. Any wobble would be just as bad as without the damper and that clamp thingy would break in no time.

 

[Bert Jan]

i once welded a bracket to the frame out of 6mm steel.

 

[cgguy09]

i once welded a bracket to the frame out of 6mm steel.

Welding is definitely the best way to go as far as positioning and stability. But you need to be in the right spot as far as the bike rebuild and you need the requisite tools, equipment, and training.

But going through the manufactured hole has definitely been the best for me. The coupler nut from granger is pretty hard-core, It's way way thicker than I would have thought, and when I ratchet everything thing down, there is no play at all.

I need to get a pic up...damn my laziness

 

[cgguy09]

I also notice the dual disc brake calibers.......(Jealous)