CB 360 ign. switch/fuse pop/running lights/wiring question...s... = )

T

timdhawk

Been Around the Block
Hi guys,
Looking for help/guidance with an electrical issue on my cb360 café. Im using the ignition switch below... fairly common. After getting my build done and going to test the electrical system before start up, with the key in the first position past "off" I would have lights and blinkers like I would expect. BUT...when I went to the next position - where I should just have power to the tail light ... I would pop my main fuse. I began isolating the ignition system from everything else to trouble shoot. I am/was trying to run the solid brown as a running lights while driving - that's my intention any way. SO... I thought there might be an issue with the ignition switch so I started looking at that... (See 2nd pic) here's one of my head scratchers: in the 1st position on, I have power to the red and black wires as expected.. in the 2nd position, I get power to the brown wire -but the main fuse pops. AND... there is never any power to the brown white wire on the switch in any position!!!

When I unplug the brown wire from everything - no fuse pop.

did these bikes have running lights originally? How would I run it for running lights? All my brake and turn signals are 3 wire for using running lights.

Am I missing any other needed info to help diagnose?


 
Yes, these bikes have running lights. In the stock setup, the brown wire in the first switch position powers just the tail light. When the switch is in the second (run) position, the brown/white and black get connected within the harness and the power comes in through the brown/white and back out the brown.

If you're getting full power in the first position, I think something might be up with the way the switch is connected to the harness or you might have other issues.
 
Sonreir said:
Yes, these bikes have running lights. In the stock setup, the brown wire in the first switch position powers just the tail light. When the switch is in the second (run) position, the brown/white and black get connected within the harness and the power comes in through the brown/white and back out the brown.

If you're getting full power in the first position, I think something might be up with the way the switch is connected to the harness or you might have other issues.
Click to expand...

I'm leaning towards the switch being assembled wonky... I took it apart to see where the contact inside lined up and its definitely 1st position gets power to red and black, and in second position only brown is hot, which sounds like the opposite of how its supposed to be. Brown/white never sees power at the switch at all...

This is "off"


This is "first position": contacts line up with red and black.


this is "second position": contacts line up with red and brown. While brown jumps to the second contact on the right of the switch, the upper "nipple" on that contact nevers touches the BR/W wire.


this is showing how the contacts never hit the brown/white wire in the second position.


The switch and harness is wire color to wire color matched. As it sits, as long as I don't have the brown wire connected to anything, I have all my normal lights and functions save for running lights.
 
Brown/white never will see power from the switch. Brown and brown/white should be connected to one another in the run position of the switch.
Brown gets power in the parking position and black get power in the run position.
 
so, looking at those pics does it look like the switch is assembled wrong? As best I can tell the contact bump never hits the BR/W wire contact at all in any position...
 
Sonreir said:
Were you having any problems before you changes the switch?
Click to expand...

I'd have to say no. But its been years since I started this project and my interest in it has waxed and waned in that time and I don't remember the factory switch. But I think no is a safe bet.
I'm starting to make myself crazy with this...

Looking at this schematic and the "main switch arraignment" box on the bottom.. Tell me if i'm reading this right:
TL1 = Brown/White, TL2 = Brown, Ign = black, B = red/hot. In the first position, TL!, TL2 and B get power, in the second position B only energizes TL2. Is that correct?


FWIW - On my cb750, I have the solid brown and brown/white wires joined together at the ignition and all works fine, however that's only a 3 wire ign. switch whereas my 360 is a 4 wire. Should I replicate my 750 or try my luck and get a another switch?
 
Plus, its no wonder I can't get this dialed in... I cant seem to find an accurate diagram for a 74 cb360 to save my life...

this one is different from the color one above at the fuse block and regarding the brown wire. in the color one above the brown wire is connected to black, in this one... its not.
 
timdhawk said:
TL1 = Brown/White, TL2 = Brown, Ign = black, B = red/hot. In the first position, TL!, TL2 and B get power, in the second position B only energizes TL2. Is that correct?
Click to expand...

Sort of. Brown/white will never get power from the switch. Brown/white gets power within the harness when the headlight is switched on (in later models, without and on/of switch for the headlight, it has power all the time, but from the fuse box) and the ignition switch connects the brown/white and brown so that power flow through the switch back to the tail light.
 
In PARK the red should connect to brown.
If your blowing fuse something is assembled wrong in your wiring.
Check switch body isn't grounding red or brown wire
 
crazypj said:
In PARK the red should connect to brown.
If your blowing fuse something is assembled wrong in your wiring.
Check switch body isn't grounding red or brown wire
Click to expand...

Which position are we calling PARK? 1st or 2nd? Sorry for some of the asinine questions...


EDIT: okay, well, oddly enough I think I have everything the way its supposed to be now. Brake lights have running light brightness when HL is on or when key is in 2nd position. (they do get brighter when brake applied) Here is one last question about that... My blinkers are 3 wire and are supposed to have running light ability just like brake lights BUT when I plug them into the same connector as the brake light running light wires are connedcted to... the main blows. Why would it work for the brakes just fine, but not with the blinkers?
 
The running lights are same colour as indicator wires but they have a white stripe on them (orange/white tracer and light blue/white tracer)
Shouldn't have an issue fitting into green/yellow brake light wire as it's a separate circuit until it grounds
You haven't got a ground wire crossed somewhere?
All greens are ground, except indicators where they are black with a short tube of orange, green or light blue on a black wire
The coloured tube is only about 5mm long, usually next to the bullet connector
Oh, ignition switch has OFF, Ignition, Park, (OFF - I - P)
They used to be marked at one time with OFF being the only full word then they used OFF and two dots
 
Also, generally speaking, you only get running lights in the front. No blue/white or orange/white wires in the rear.
 
+1 although I think some of the European models had rear running lights (probably German models?)
 
Thanks guys for all the input. I appreciate the help. I think my mistake was that i was trying to use the brown wire for front and rear running lights using brake and signal lights. I can live with just having running lights on the brake light at this point. My end goal is just to finish this bike and sell it off.
 
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