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first,I though I knew what I was doing when i tried to adjust my clutch today... I was wrong.
basically i cracked/shattered the clip that goes over the "clutch shaft thing" while tightening it down.
second, what is the proper way to adjust my clutch on my 1972 cb175 since this obviously did nothing but stall my bike out and then i broke the clutch adjuster piece while re-assembling.... must be working out too much.
The reason for adjusting the clutch: when i have the clutch fully pulled in and put it into gear, the gear engages and the wheel starts to spin before i let the clutch back out.
I was turning this big screw after loosining the upper bolt holding the piece that i eventually broke...
should I do this while its in gear? or should it be in neutral?
I was doing in first gear, when i started to turn the screw clockwise, the chain seemed to start comming loose... any reason that would happen, or did I just go too far?
should I do this while its in gear? or should it be in neutral?
I was doing in first gear, when i started to turn the screw clockwise, the chain seemed to start comming loose... any reason that would happen, or did I just go too far?
It doesn't matter if it's in gear or not. You are not doing anything to the gears or gear change.
BUT - what did you mean when you mentioned the chain moved? Did you mean that as you adjust it, the chain modes towards the motor - as if teh sprocket were being pushed in from the outside, or something else?
The push rod, which teh adjuster pushes on is in the front shaft, not the rear one. Something is wrong if the chain becomes loose. I'd pop that cover off and have a look inside. Just remove trh shift lever and the screws and see what's going on in there.
Yep, like teazer says, if chain is moving you have something serious wrong
your going to have to pull the cover.
Need to get the clamp piece replaced before you can go any further
I n the pic it looks like the operating arm where cable connects is way too high in it's travel
Thanks guys, The little clip should be in the mail mid week so I'll be able to check it out.
Teazer, the chain looked like it was moving to me because i had the bike on and as i adjusted it, it started to stall out and changed speeds... But I'll try it with the bike off this time... I though I was supposed to watch for engagement while it was idling so I had it up off the ground, running.
Crazypj, if i loosen the bolts/cable at the top of the case, will that lower the arm position or is there a different way to go about that?
I'll try to take a few more pictures next time i work on it.
No need to loosen cover bolts, just the adjuster at top of case.
Set bar end adjuster about 1.5~2 turns out from fully bottomed, set motor end adjuster all the way down.
Then adjust the large center screw to just touch clutch pushrod, back off about 1/16 turn to get slight clearance and lock up the thing you broke when you get 'new' one.
You then re-adjust cable at motor end
The spring looks pretty stretched because arm is too high.
Arm moves through about 30~50 degree arc
The cable should be at 90 degrees to arm halfway through travel which means arm should start a little below center and move to a little above center when its properly adjusted (handlebar lever is pulled all the way in to bar)
awesome, I'm expecting to have that part tomorrow or wednesday. I can't wait to get this thing up and running 100% You guys are extremely helpful! I'll post again when I do it right this time.
well, I only spent an hour messing around with the adjustment, but I still can't get my clutch to fully disengage... when I pull the clutch lever all the way in to shift, it shifts hard and its obvious the clutch is still engaged. i even set the bike off the ground and put it in first and instantly the tire starts to spin before I let the clutch lever back out.
Is this more of a problem than just adjusting as stated in above posts? I really hope I'm not needing a new clutch :-\
With the bike on the center stand (i dont recommended it btw - try at your own risk) get the motor running, squeeze the clutch, put it in first gear. With the clutch squeezed, press the rear brake til the wheel stops. If. The motor doesnt stall, you're good.
I don't recommend that way either. Pull the clutch cover after you drain the oil.
Pull on teh clutch lever and observe the clutch assembly. Two possibilities.
A/ The pressure plate doesn't lift because the adjustment is all wrong/ the ball is missing. If that is the case, go back to PJ's technique and adjust it correctly.
B/ The pressure plate lifts but all the plates stay firmly stuck together from years of sitting. If so, undo teh 4 6mm bolts (10mm heads) and remove the outer pressure plate and springs and all the plates. Separate the plates and clean off rust and old sticky oil/goop residue. Re oil. Reassemble. refill engine with oil and have fun.
Thanks again for being pros at this! The bike does not stall when i'm sitting on it (on the ground, not the stand) and it is in first gear with the clutch in. Just took it for a spin around the block and it seems to be good!
as far as oil goes, do you know off the top of your head how many quarts a 175 takes... I saw online that it takes 3, but that seems like a ton of oil for such a small motor... I mean, my car takes 4 so...
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