Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
I'll probably split the cases open just to have a look and make sure everything looks in good working order... I have spare oil seals and gaskets for the whole engine if I need it.
I figure it's a good chance to get in there and learn something even if I don't strip and rebuild everything.
After having a few issues getting the screws loose on the case covers, I finally got around to impacting them loose (after using a hammer and old screw driver to create a flathead groove for the impact driver to sit in as the philips head of the screw was way messed up...
Tomorrow I should fit the motobits rearsets and make any necessary frame modifications - then take the frame apart to prep it for painting...
I double checked the cylinders today - and although there is a small amount of scoring in the cylinders, I can hardly feel anything at all. A friend suggested simply softening the scoring with some wet and dry paper (It looks to me like the scoring is just some caked on gunk from the pistons sitting in the same place for too long...) has anyone got any ideas on this?
Oh, and any ideas as to the best way to clean gunked up piston heads? Soak them in degreaser or something stronger?
I can't tell if its gunk or burnt carbon on those pistons, but keep soaking them with the strongest stuff you have. Keep as much of the cleaner out of the case as possible and after a while (no explosive fumes) maybe try to get a dremel with a steel brush on them?
Be delicate around the walls, it doesn't take much to REQUIRE a hone job, ya know?
Kinda a rule of thumb is if you cant feel the "score" with your fingernail its probably very safe to say it wont cause a problem. If you rering or put in new pistons and rings you will need to break the glaze on the cylinders anyway. This glaze forms over an engines life and polishes the cylinders to the point new rings will not form a good seal (They will form a seal but its not the optimal way of doing it) and oil retention on the cylinders is lost. Ball hones are cheep but your local service shop may do this for you, for less than the cost of a hone. Scotchbrite pads and solvent should clean your combustion chambers up.
Something the lower link does not tell you is hone cross-hatch pattern angle on the cylinder (usually 45 degrees, so the cross-hatches are at 90 to one another) and it does not tell you what grit to use (if I remember right 360 sounds like the grit but I am unsure). Its been a long time since I honed a cylinder.
All your trying to do is break the glaze not go up a size, so don't work it like a prom queen.
I finally managed to get those damn screws out using the impact driver, all except 2 which were so stripped out that I was seriously concerned. I eventually just put some thought into it and using a screwdriver and hammer gently created a couple of new slots for the impact driver flathead to sit in... spent about 10 mins on each screw creating the new slots, and after 2 hits with the impact driver the buggers came out.
Out of interest, I realised that I've been stripping the engine down to get to the kickstart spline which is worn flat on the outside... Has anyone seen a way of repairing these things without either replacing the whole spline assembly, and without stripping the whole engine down? It looks like the previous owner has started cutting a groove into the spline... anyone have any ideas?
All in all, the internals look pretty good to me... and by pretty good I mean there wasn't anything broken or rolling around when I took the covers off...
Also thought I'd throw a couple of pics of the piston heads up too... I'll start soaking them this weekend...
I've always wondered the easiest way to fix damaged splines but haven't had to do it yet. And I'm sure there's a better way but what about drilling a hole in the base of the lever, going into the the splines, and out the other side of the lever? Then find a quick release pin (like a small hitch pin) to put in the drilled hole.
Surly somebody has a better idea than this though.
I think that is the easiest option... and considering the bike has electric start as well, It might be the way I end up doing it... I want to keep the kickstart for old times sake. I wonder if a jagged ring of metal wrapped around the spline might work, that essentially cuts into the spline and kickstart as you tighten the kickstart lever... or cutting a groove in the spline and kickstart lever and forcing a square pin in between under pressure...
If I'm reading the manual right, the only way to get that out is to split the cases. You could always weld the lever on. ;D (kidding).
If that spline became unusable and your starter failed as well you could always bump start. many guys just do that anyway with these little bikes, racers etc.
Did you decide against splitting cases? I'm going to split mine because I want to inspect the transmission.
If you go the "quick relase pin" rout be sure that the pin fits VERY snugly in the hole you drill... There is a lot of force put on the kick arm and you dont want that pin getiing bent and stuck in there.
Cheapest and easiest fix for the kickstart is to bolt it back on and tack weld at the end of the shaft. You wont need much weld at all - just enough to "tack" it. And only on the end - that way you can grind it off to take the kick back off.
How bad are those splines? They didn't look too bad. You may be able to take some material out of the pinch point of the kicker that will allow it to close further and be tighter on the shaft. Welding would work kind of a pita when yo just need to take the kicker off though. I would try my way first if it doesn't work then you can weld it or pin it.
Peace Travis
The Woodruff key idea and taking material out of the pinch point of the kick-starter are both really good ideas. If you do decide to just tack weld it on the end, PUT THE GROUND OF THE WELDER ON THE KICK STARTER ARM. Grounding the welder anywhere else but what you are welding to will cause arcs of electricity to go through what it has to in order to get to the weld. These tiny arcs cause slight imperfections in the bearings the electricity has to run through and the affected bearings WILL FAIL.
The Woodruff key idea and taking material out of the pinch point of the kick-starter are both really good ideas. If you do decide to just tack weld it on the end, PUT THE GROUND OF THE WELDER ON THE KICK STARTER ARM. Grounding the welder anywhere else but what you are welding to will cause arcs of electricity to go through what it has to in order to get to the weld. These tiny arcs cause slight imperfections in the bearings the electricity has to run through and the affected bearings WILL FAIL.
Weld a shallow 1/2" drive socket (socket end to match your shaft) to your kick start, drive end facing out. With that on, make your very own kick start lever from an old welded ratchet that just clicks on off. When its running, toss the lever in your back pack or a bag on the bike somewhere.
@diesel450 - I may still split the bottom end open, firstly just to say that I have, and because I have spare gaskets and seals and I'd at least know it is all ok in there, and secondly because I have split the rest of it, might as well go the whole way now... but the more I split it, the less I know what I'm doing! A big part of me wants to get onto the more fun stuff like painting, creating a custom seat etc etc... Still, I know I need to learn the basics and should at least finish the motor completely... So once the old man gets back from holidays I'm putting him in the shed with the tools. ;D
@ the rest..
Not sure about using a socket and ratchet set, allthough I think it would be pretty hillarious. I'm leaning towards either a pin or key (id rather not tack weld it if possible - even though it probably means less damage in the long term...)
Good work so far man. As for wanting to move onto painting and fabbing, when you take her out for that first spin you sure won't regret spending time on the engine! I'd rather have a goer not a looker, you know what I mean?
Anywho, I'm with the socket idea for your kickstart - how many people would have a removable and handy kickstart? Just think about it for a second... Your anti-theft? Kickstart. Dark alley protection? Kickstart. Wanna knock off that idiot cagers mirror? Kickstart. Your toolkit? Sockets & kickstart, wrenches apply elsewhere.
Dude, this could be the mother of all modifications! I'm totally for it.
Hmm... I'm not sure that a socket kickstart classifies as "anti theft"...
But I HAVE been thinking about making a custom little travel compartment out of some pvc (sprayed black) with chrome end caps attached where the tool kit used to be...
So long as the kickstart doesn't interfere with my rearsets...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
