CB200: want to bring electronics to modern age

Keogan

CB200T, MB5
Ok, I'm fed up with trying to figure out whats wrong with the charging system on my bike so I just want to toss it all and bring it to the new age. I want DYNA coils to fix my current coil problems and a voltage regulator/rectifier to fix my voltage regulator problem (purchased three from ebay but all seem to not work, no voltage coming out of the regulator)


I need to figure out what kind of electronics will bring me to a happy place, and i need your help. Sick of constantly worrying about battery life.
 
Before you spend any more cash, do you know what unregulated voltage the alternator is creating and know if it's within spec? Have you tested the stator with a multimeter to be sure there are no cracked wires or dead shorts?

If/when you know for sure they are OK I'd contact Anthony Weeks at Oregon Motorcycle parts and ask him to sell you a new regulator/rectifier.
 
is there any go to guides on how to test the stator and alternator? I have my shop manual with the req. specs and I'll test with my multimeter tomorrow but I'd like to make sure i'm doing it correctly, not just shoving the red end here and black and there and getting a number.

Thanks for the reference to Oregon Motorcycle Parts, I'll for sure use them if I can't get this sorted.
 
The manual probably has a picture that sows you what to do. You're testing resistance between the coils and ground and between each coil.
 
I believe your bike is using a permanent magnet, single phase regulator, if so the rectifier/regulator must match the type of system you have,

You might want to try over at www.hondatwins.net theres alot of smart people over there that can help you out
 
You don't get any power out of regulator, you only get power going in and to ground when there's 'too much'
You have no basic understanding of system, that's the main problem.
If you don't understand what you have ,how will spending a bunch of cash help you ?
If all you want to do is ride, just make it completely stock and ride it. When you know it's working properly, then do mods.
I'm running stock points and coils on modified 360, (as in 1974 stock, 37yrs old)
I only swapped regulator/rectifier so I could re-mount a 'nicer looking' one, the old parts are working fine and I was using them until I rebuilt bike as 'Cafe'
There really isn't anything wrong with stock parts, as long as you know how they should work.
Honda are not stupid and didn't make unreliable electrical systems, 30+ yrs of repair and abuse is the main problem
 
Your Alternator is made of a stationary Stator (set of coils) and a spinning permanent magnet (rotor).

To test your alternators condition, disconnect it at the plug. There are four wires in the 6-place plug: Red, White, Yellow and Light Green with a Red stripe. Using a multimeter on OHMS, check between the Red-White wires, Red-Yellow wires and, White-Yellow wires. The OHM reading should be very low (.5 to 10 OHMS), a virtual short.

Then test resistance of each of these wires to ground. The readings should be very high or open.

If all of these tests are good then your alternator is physically good. If any of the readings between the wires is high or open, or there is anything other than very high resistance to ground, one or more of the windings in the stator is broken or grounded and you're going to have to replace the stator.

To test the operation of the alternator, crank the bike and turn on the headlight and shine it on a wall. notice how bright the light shines. Then turn off the engine. If the headlight gets dimmer then the alternator is charging. DO NOT disconnect the positive lead from the battery with the engine running. If the alternator is working properly this will cause the regulator to drive the alternator to maximum output and might fry your rectifier, regulator, lamps and/or any other electronic devices and then troubleshooting will turn into a nightmare!!!

My $.02.

FMTL
 
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