I'm not positive on this but I don't think any Honda spoked wheel is offset at all. Very few bike wheels are because from a designer's point of view its a lot less expensive to manufacture it using spacers to move the sprocket out than it is to offset a wheel - which is only done to gain clearance.
The two different spokes you have are different in that their ends are bent differently. The longer ones with the steeper bend go through the hub flange from the inside to the outside. They are the last spokes you put in the hub after you have laced the other set of spokes.
Lacing is actually pretty easy if you can count to 4. To start you put a spoke through the flange of the hub (outside to inside, these are the inside spokes) in any hole and then put its nipple end through the hole immediately to the left of the air-valve-hole. Turn the nipple down a couple of turns. Then put your next spoke in the hub; you skip over one blank hole and use the next. Put this spoke through the rim in the 4th hole up from the first one you did. Then follow that pattern all the way around the wheel - every other hole on one side of the hub and every 4th hole on the rim.
Now the truth of the matter is you have to put all of the outside-to-inside spokes through the hub on both sides before you begin because they will become tangled if you don't. Also, the ones that are on the underside of your hub as you lace the first side have to be pointing in the opposite direction of the upperside that you are working on.
OK, with one side done flip the wheel over (carefully) and begin doing the same thing on the opposite side. Here you first take you hub and rotate it so that the spokes you already have in place are pulled to approximately their finished position. Then take one of your remaining inside spokes and hold it to the rim hole on one end and to the hub at the other and see which hub hole it ends at - this is the one you will start with. Same thing as the other side, first spoke goes in the hole immediately the left of the air-valve-hole and then its every other hole in the hub and every 4th hole on the rim.
This second set will be enough spokes to hold the wheel it its rough shape. Now you begin with the outside spokes. These you have to pass across the hub to insert them through the holes so that the little blob at the end of the spoke is on the inside of the flange. Same thing here as with the other spokes, every other hole in the flange, every 4th hole in the rim. Do half, flip the wheel over and do the remaining half in the only holes left in the rim to fill.
If you're lucky you should be able to get one done in about a half hour, add one hour for every two beers drunk while attempting it.
Truing is, as has been noted, not difficult at all. Let me tell you why. All of your spokes are exactly the same length. Your hub is drilled to a true circle centered on the axle. Your rim is round and the holes evenly spaced. What that means is that if you start off by screwing all of the nipples down evenly the wheel will be very close to perfectly true to start with.
So here's what you do. Put the axle through you hub and put it in a stand so the wheel can spin. Starting at the air-valve-hole loosen the first nipple completely and then screw it back down counting turns. Give it 8 turns to start. Move to the next one and do the same thing, 8 turns. Go all around the wheel doing this. When you're done take the wheel off your stand and shake it hard. Put it back in the stand and start again, at the air hole, but now tighten the spoke 1 turn - go all the way around. If this doesn't get them all snug, do it again. Keep doing this until the nipples are just snug, not real tight. They just need to be tight enough that when you pick the wheel up and shake it there is no loosness in it.
Now go to the truing stand (which you can make out of a couple of tables and c-clamps). Set up your dial indicator to first read for out of round, don't concern yourself at all with side wobble yet.
Spin the wheel and find the highest spot. Be careful not to confuse the rim's weld with the circle's high. So when you spin it you may find a little lump in the wheel - ignore it, look for the actual high point. Mark the center of the high point on the wheel using masking tape. Next take the spoke in the center of the high and screw its nipple down 1 turn, the two spokes to each side of it 1 turn as well, then move out two more spokes and turn them both down 1/2 turn. Spin the wheel and check it. After the first two or three attempts start doing it 1/2 turn in the center of the high and 1/4th turn on the 2nd and 3rd spokes out to each side Repeat as necessary to get your runout to less than 0.010".
Then set your indicator up for lateral runout (wobble to the sides). Sit on the side and spin the wheel and find the point where it wobbles as far away from you. Mark it with your tape and then begin by tightening the spoke on your side of the wheel 1/2 turn and loosening the spokes on each side of it by the same amount. Spin and try it again. Repeat as necessary until you have the runout to 0.010" or less.
On Edit: Sorry to have left this last part out. After you get it true take your spoke wrench and as your slowly spin the wheel around give each spoke a tap. You know how it will go; "ping, ping, ping, thump". If you have more than 4 or 5 thumpers go around the entire wheel one time and give each spoke a half a turn. Then try it again. If there are only one or two thumpers left go ahead and tighten them a little bit at a time until they ping like the others. Then you're done. Another thing I should have added is that every now and then during the process take the wheel and give it a good bounce on something that won't hurt it. I bounce them a couple of times on a carpeted floor. All you're doing is shaking wayward parts into place, getting stuck stuff unstuck. It only takes a couple of minutes to get your dial indicator set up again, so its worth doing often. Oh, and if you haven't got a dial indicator just go to E-Bay, there are hundreds of them there. Buy a good used one and make sure you can see all the clamping apparatus that will come with it - don't just buy the dial indicator by itself, get a kit with clamps and bars and stuff. Many come with magnetic bases too, and if you have the ability to make use of one they are great. They can be had in the US dirt cheap because of all the closed down industry and laid off machinists.
And that's about all there is to it. Here is one with its lateral runout true to 0.007" in a homemade stand made out of 2x4's.
