cb350 battery options

[boomshakalaka]

Ive done quite a bit of searching and cant find a very solid answer. I know that burried in someones build thread theres a good rundown of what batteries can be used and with what setups, but alas the search function on this forum is a bit shabby. Im pretty set on running a sealed battery as I probably will lay it down on its side, but I cant figure out what I need beyond it being 12volts.



-Besides the voltage and the amphours is anything else important?

-How many amphours will I need to retain the e-start, and how many if I decide to ditch it?

-If Im splicing multiple batteries together how do I do the math? Do I simple make sure that the amphours per battery * number of batteries = required amphours?

-Again if Im splicing multiple batteries in what pattern do I run the bridges?

 

[muskrat]

if your running more than one battery thats 12 volt you run them pos to pos, neg to neg, ending up with however many amp hrs x however many batteries. this is called parallel.
if you're running say, two 6 volt batts you run pos to neg getting the same results, amp hrs x 2. this is called series and is similar to how a flashlight works. you can use any combination of like batteries to get the correct voltage in series, two 6 volt, three 4 volt, four 3 volt...
as far as how many amp hrs you need, that is probably going to be different for every bike and require some trial and error. ive seen some pretty small bat setups work perfectly fine on one bike but not another of the same make. mysta2 and chrisf are perfect examples of this.
find a battery distributer and pick there brains for creative alternatives, i saw a setup with 10 1.2volt batteries, which are about the same size as D batteries, wired under the seat.
one more thing to consider is cranking amps which may not be enough with any of the multi battery setups.
hope this helps

 

[boomshakalaka]

That is about as much as I could ask for as far as theory goes, thanks a lot man! I feel like I have a grasp on this now. I know you said that it can be different for every bike but still it would be good if anyone, that has run a battery other than the stock setup, would post up their anecdotal experience.

oh and what are cranking amps? And why exactly would a multi battery setup supply any less cranking amps than a singular setup?

 

[boomshakalaka]

google answered my question about what cranking amps are:

Cranking amps are the numbers of amperes a lead-acid battery at 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12 volt battery). In other words, CA/cranking amps determine how much power you have to start your car in most climates. The basic job of a battery is to start an engine; it must crank, or rotate the crankshaft while at the same time maintain sufficient voltage to activate the ignition system until the engine fires and maintains rotation. This requirement involves a high discharge rate in amperes for a short period of time. Since it is more difficult for a battery to deliver power when it is cold, and since the engine requires more power to turn over when it is cold, the Cold Cranking rating is defined as: The number of amperes a lead-acid battery at 0 degrees F (-17.8 degrees C) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt battery). In other words, CCA/cold cranking amps determine how much power you have to start your car on cold winter mornings.

so how many cranking amps should I be looking for, and again why might multi battery setups not provide the CA I need?

 

[muskrat]

And why exactly would a multi battery setup supply any less cranking amps than a singular setup?

i don't know that it would or would not, i only know battery basics and figured it was another facet to the challenge that should be further researched.
i'll see if i can find any info from the local battery gurus.

 

[chrisf]

If you're using the push button start, I have no idea. Maybe 4-5 amp/hours?

On my kickstart bikes, I run 2.4 amp/hr worth of batteries. I did this on my CB350 and the CB360. I run no signals on these bikes and use LED in the taillights. The headlight is stock, and there is a small light in the clocks.

The important thing to remember is you'll fry the wires and likely the batteries if you try to push-button start off these little guys.

--Chris

 

[boomshakalaka]

woah, that is low. Im really leaning towards removing the starter and just running the minimum. Ive found some sick bar end led signals that flash on the front and back, so Id probably run those, an led tail, a light for the clocks and the stock headlamp. So it wouldnt be much more than what youre running. This also gives me free reign on the cowl design instead of having to make it work with whatever size battery I get.

 

[boomshakalaka]

So even if I dont use the starter but it is installed (dont have the funds for a plug from mg right now) it will be a burden on the system? I guess I can gut it but still install the empty housing and just take the chain off the crank?

btw, thanks for the breakdown, that was very helpful.