CB350 : Clutch Issues

[boomshakalaka]

My cb350 build is finally nearing completion, but now Ive run into trouble with the clutch. At first it wasnt engaging at all, VonYinzer suggested that I check to be sure the ball bearing is in there. Well as I thought, it was... but the little ball bearing plate with the 3 balls was not! Thinking I had solved my clutch issues I triumphantly reinstalled the rear crankcase cover, but my problems were far from over. After a bit of adjusting I managed to get the clutch to actually engage, however the plates are still gripping each other. The rear wheel can be turned by hand but its very very hard.

Another thing that Von said, is to make sure the clutch plates are facing the right way. So I pulled the clutch cover, took the front of the basket off, and pulled out the discs/plates. Bot the plates and disc look identical on either side to me.. is there some distinguishing mark that lets me know which side faces out? While I had the cover off I tried to engage the clutch and the plates were only pushed about 3-4mm tops. Is this the normal amount of travel?

And finally, while messing around with the clutch it started to make this kinda loud popping sound (as if a spring were snapping back into place or something similar) when I engaged the clutch sometimes. This would be followed by the clutch going completely slack. Then if I jiggled the clutch cable where it goes into the rear crackcase cover it would normally snap back to normal, all the slack in the line suddenly being taken up. When I pulled the rear cover to inspect I saw nothing out of the ordinary. What the hells going on here?

Sorry if this is all really basic stuff, but Clymers can be extremely brief on some subjects.. clutch assembly and tuning being one of them. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

 

[crazypj]

I've heard about this but never experienced it until 2 weeks ago when I had same problem with CB360.
Clutch had been 're-built' recently by local back street mechanic :
The adjustment is 'off' and needs careful set up after it's 'popped' a few times
It's now working perfect, I don't know what settled in but something did?
There are 3 ball bearings in lift mechanism and a fourth inside center hole (where pushrod fits)
The plates have a sharp edge and a rounded edge (because of the way they are made, stamped out from sheet )
Theory is,
rounded edge 'out' clutch is easier to lift but may engage more abruptly.
rounded edge 'in' clutch has smoother engagement but slightly more drag when lifting.
Personally I've never noticed any difference, even when I radiused 'sharp' edge or alternated sharp/round

PJ

 

[dirtbag]

Just keep at it. Mine did the same too. I musta had that cover off 10 times. The wheel was sticking as well but I ran it anyway. Seemed to solve itself.

 

[boomshakalaka]

ok, so Ill keep tweaking it, and try to get the wheel to be as lose and possible while in gear but clutch engaged. Then when I get the bike running, maybe things will free up a bit?

Any clue what exactly the popping is? It would seem that whatever is slipping out of place (allowing the clutch to suddenly snap back) is in the mechanism right behind the rear left crankcase cover, but when I look I cant see anything. Is the cyl just rotating too far and popping over the 3 ball bearings maybe?

Anyways, Ill get to adjusting some more... knowing that its just and adjustment issue Im starting to think that trying to use the stock cable with clipons could be the entirety of the problem.

 

[djelliott]

I too had the same problem. I also just kept working on the adjustments until I got as free as possible and then rode it. Did you by chance use kevlar friction disks? I was thinking maybe that was my issue and they just needed to work in a little.

The popping is the worm gear being adjusted out to far. It gets to a point where the plate with the 3 ball bearings rolls over the top and pops back down into the next groove. Man that was pissing me off. Good luck boom. You'll get it and probably be a pro at clutch adjusting by the time you do. ;D

 

[boomshakalaka]

I too had the same problem. I also just kept working on the adjustments until I got as free as possible and then rode it. Did you by chance use kevlar friction disks? I was thinking maybe that was my issue and they just needed to work in a little.

The popping is the worm gear being adjusted out to far. It gets to a point where the plate with the 3 ball bearings rolls over the top and pops back down into the next groove. Man that was pissing me off. Good luck boom. You'll get it and probably be a pro at clutch adjusting by the time you do. ;D

nah, I just have the stock plates in there, probably going to look to replace them asap. And thanks for the popping explanation. Definitely a relief to know that nothing is fubared and that I just need to keep adjusting .

 

[boomshakalaka]

ok, Ive got it to where it no longer pops, yet it does engage the clutch and with a ton of effort I can move the rear wheel by hand. I figure when I get the bike off the center stand its weight alone will make rolling it easier and help to free up the plates when the clutch is engaged.

Now I just need to solve some electrical issues..