CB350 front right side vibration. Need advice or help!!

[plyzo]

I have a CB350 that has been producing a ton of vibration on the right side clip ons. This is a complete bike done from ground up. I started off with the original front end with drum brake and had the vibration. I then upgraded to disc brake and changed up forks, wheels, steering stem and triple and have the same results. The only thing that is the same on the front end is the Clip Ons everything else is brand new.

Anyone have an idea what this could be, it only vibrates on the right side ( throttle ) and its very hard to ride long distance. I have tried putting bar weight at the end which helped but just can't diagnose what it could be. I have checked shock oil and the only thing I can think of is that it might be wheel balance but weird that this would be happening even after a different RIM was placed on it.

Any thoughts?

 

[crazypj]

Check all the engine mounts are in place and torqued correctly.
Check REAR wheel balance it can set up some weird vibrations.
Check drive chain isn't too tight (or too loose, rusty, worn, etc)
It's worth having front weheel dynamically balanced, if you can find a shop that knows how.
How far oversize are the tyres?
Is right bar at a different angle or length compared to left?
Did you run wiring through bars or cut side of switch?

 

[plyzo]

Check all the engine mounts are in place and torqued correctly.
Check REAR wheel balance it can set up some weird vibrations.
Check drive chain isn't too tight (or too loose, rusty, worn, etc)
It's worth having front weheel dynamically balanced, if you can find a shop that knows how.
How far oversize are the tyres?
Is right bar at a different angle or length compared to left?
Did you run wiring through bars or cut side of switch?

Thanks PJ. Here is some more info.

Drive Chain is good.
Right and Left bars are the same in length, angle and height on tubes.
No wires through tubes.

Here is some pictures of the bike:

http://diadelosmotos.tumblr.com

As far as balancing goes I can try and see if there is some shops around here that can offer dynamic balancing.

 

[crazypj]

You may not want it but you NEED a fork brace.

You also need wider rims or narrower tyres
I would also chop inch or more off bars, they are wide enough for a Goldwing, 350 only needs around 24"~28" wide set up
I usually use 27" but current set up on 360 is 25-1/2"
Wiider just loks dumb in my opinion with too much space between controls and top yoke.
Slide master cylinder in as far as possible, move throttle in and cut off the bit sticking out.
Trim left side to same length.
It will look better and probably be more comfortable, I used to regularly do 100+ mile club runs on my 360 withut any problems except a bit of wrist ache (my Katana does the same to me and it has higher bars)
Oh, you may want to find or make some fine wire 'springs' to fit over fuel lines, it helps prevent them kinking, you can see they are starting to 'flatten' on the bends
If you can get away without a speedometer (or have electronic one) I make a nifty speedo removal spacer ;D (You can just about see it in first pic, thats a 350 with 360 front end)
This is for Neevo's 400f but it's on a CB360 disc hub with special spacer for CBR600 rotor

Original hub for mock up/sizing

Just found the pic I was really looking for 8)

 

[plyzo]

I have been trying to find a nice fork brace but have had no luck. On my previous front setup that had drum I ran the original fender and still had the vibration. I would love to try a brace out and see if that removes the vibration. Do you think the wider RIM would really get rid of vibration?


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[crazypj]

The oversize tyre can flex in unexpected ways
What tyre pressure are you running?
I found modern tyres need a minimum of 32psi and prefer 36~40 psi.
You may be getting a resonance from tyre flex if your using the service manual 24~26 psi?
The narrow rim makes tyre higher rather than wider so there is even more sidewall movement than usual compared to correct rim/tyre combination
Oh, I make fork brace as well, played with my radius cutters on the lower one, the original (top pic) was made a few years ago.

One of the other things I like to do on my bikes is remove the visible seams on bottom yoke, I think it just looks better

 

[hillsy]

How much play is there between your throttle tube and the bar? If you can "rattle" it, then that could be the problem.

 

[plyzo]

There is a lot of play between throttle tube and clip on right now.


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[plyzo]

I have some very cheap clip ons which makes me really think it's that now cause like I said this whole front end is new and having the same results as before questions the only thing that is the same which is the clip ons.

 

[crazypj]

Slide the clip on further inboard so you can hold onto bar as well as throttle.
That should give you a better idea if they are the problem

 

[plyzo]

Slide the clip on further inboard so you can hold onto bar as well as throttle.
That should give you a better idea if they are the problem

Alright will try that this weekend and see. Does anyone have a recommendation on good clip ons to purchase? I believe these ones are not true 7/8 bars but slightly smaller.

 

[crazypj]

Post a picture of the handlebar/fork area, it may be possible to make them better?
I made clamps and cut up new handlebars to get more adjustability (I like bars tilted down further than the 'stock' 10 degrees)

 

[plyzo]

Will post a pic once I get home. I did upgrade from the Plastic throttle to an aluminum one but still is a lot larger than clip on bar.


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[crazypj]

The nylon throttle tube may be a better fit. I have an 'upgraded' MX aluminium throttle tube still in packaging, never used it

 

[plyzo]

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[plyzo]

crazyPJ - How much for a fork brace?


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[crazypj]

Around $125.00, when I eventually get them finished.
Mydlyfkryzis has been very patient
There's a lot of work in the clamps on fork legs, not so much on the cross piece unless you wanted some sort of pattern
I bought some thicker stock to make them 'taller' so shouldn't need the spacer to clear tyre.
They are single pinch bolt so forks have to be removed to fit clamp piece.
No, I won't make dual bolt ones again, last set were a bit of a nightmare and took way too long to make

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

I am sure CrazyPJ will finish mine as soon as his wallet gets a little dry....I have the money waiting for him

So far, with even the little products he machines up, they are always worth the wait. Even the throttle shaft caps he made are beautiful....

 

[crazypj]

I am sure CrazyPJ will finish mine as soon as his wallet gets a little dry....I have the money waiting for him

So far, with even the little products he machines up, they are always worth the wait. Even the throttle shaft caps he made are beautiful....

It's always dry, barely had any work since I was laid off in 2011.
The insurance agent jod this year didn't work, all it did was cost me money (plus I was told to resign from a 1099 job that had a 90 day 'contract' after only 34 days ;D )
I keep moving the part made clamps around, going to have to finish them off because I'm tired of moving them around different benches

 

[plyzo]

So PJ I did move clip on bars in more which does look better and also minimized vibration a bit.


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