jas134
New Member
So I have almost completed my entire build of my 1973 CB350F but ran into a couple things while tuning the motorcycle after I had it wired and running.
I started with the valves, set them to the correct gap, adjusted the cam chain, then moved to the points.
Points:
Following my repair manual I turned the crank to the F position for 1-4, and adjusted the 1-4 point to the correct gap. Next I moved the crank to F position for 2-3, and the 2-3 point had no gap at all.....
I assumed the 2-3 point should have same gap tolerance as the 1-4 point as stated in the manual, so I opened it to the .016in gap. So now both points are open when I have either in 1-4 in F or 2-3 in F. Is this normal? if so how did the bike run with no gap at the 2-3 firing position?
Carbs:
I had rebuilt the carbs with new keyster kits, but took the carbs off to replace the main jet with an 85 instead of an 75 because I am running pods and homemade baffled drag pipes (anticipating lean mixture).
When I was replacing the main i figured to check the float bowl height. It looks like the keyster float needle is longer than the OEM and the floats were all at ~26mm instead of OEM 21mm when the float first contacts the needle.
I tried bending the float tabs to make it floats sit at 21mm but it seemed like the float had very little travel inside the carb body and was worried it wouldn't close the float needle completely. Does the float needle need to travel very far to close?
Oh and I ran into the stupid bowl O-ring expanding issue, hopefully cleaning and drying them with heat gun will evaporate the gas and shrink them down to fit back in the bowl groove.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated
I started with the valves, set them to the correct gap, adjusted the cam chain, then moved to the points.
Points:
Following my repair manual I turned the crank to the F position for 1-4, and adjusted the 1-4 point to the correct gap. Next I moved the crank to F position for 2-3, and the 2-3 point had no gap at all.....
I assumed the 2-3 point should have same gap tolerance as the 1-4 point as stated in the manual, so I opened it to the .016in gap. So now both points are open when I have either in 1-4 in F or 2-3 in F. Is this normal? if so how did the bike run with no gap at the 2-3 firing position?
Carbs:
I had rebuilt the carbs with new keyster kits, but took the carbs off to replace the main jet with an 85 instead of an 75 because I am running pods and homemade baffled drag pipes (anticipating lean mixture).
When I was replacing the main i figured to check the float bowl height. It looks like the keyster float needle is longer than the OEM and the floats were all at ~26mm instead of OEM 21mm when the float first contacts the needle.
I tried bending the float tabs to make it floats sit at 21mm but it seemed like the float had very little travel inside the carb body and was worried it wouldn't close the float needle completely. Does the float needle need to travel very far to close?
Oh and I ran into the stupid bowl O-ring expanding issue, hopefully cleaning and drying them with heat gun will evaporate the gas and shrink them down to fit back in the bowl groove.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated
