CB360 Battery Question with Electric Start

bydgoszcz

Active Member
Hey guys, I've been digging through the forums and I'm starting to get lost among all the battery answers, so I figured I would ask here.

As the subject says I would 'like' to run the electric start on my CB360, its on the bike isn't it.... I'm upgrading the regulator/rectifier so that should help. Now I'm limited in space as I'm thinking about running the battery underneath the swingarm.

So what am I looking as the smallest battery I can run? I was looking at this http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-custom-motorcycle-electronics-parts-medium-12v-sealed-trugel-battery-78-0551.html (The Size is 5.1"x3.5"x4.5") I'm guessing this should fit under the swingarm but is 8A enough for the electric start?

I also thought about this battery - http://shoraipower.com/lfx09a2-bs12-p50 but again I'm on the fence when it comes to the Lithium batteries, (should I update the stator too if running a lithium battery?, will I kill this battery?) and again is 9A enough for the electric start?

Thanks for all the help guys!
 
I'd go with the shorai. It's smaller and more powerful than the gel battery and it's completely dry technology. The 8 amps are plenty for that size bike. I've got a 14amp in my cb550 but it's rated to start up to 1100cc bikes. The only reason I went with that much power is because my alternator needs juice to operate. I'm pretty sure the cb360 has a permanent magnet style alternator instead of an electromagnet. Lithium iron phosphate batteries were developed specifically for the auto/powersport applications. The other options out there, such as ballistic batteries, evolved from cordless powertool tech.
 
bydgoszcz said:
As the subject says I would 'like' to run the electric start on my CB360, its on the bike isn't it....

You are making changes to the electrical system on your bike and your asking us if it has ELECTRIC START?!?!

Yes 8 ah is enough. I have 8ah, I wouldnt go any less.

Are you joking !?!? Hang it under the swing arm ?!?! WTF ?!?!

Im sure all 28,292 members here will be most impressed if you can make a lion battery work on a cb360 for more than a few short rides. A stock battery or gel is what you need.
 
Personally from all the grief and dead battery stories from people using shorai or ballistix batteries I'd say unless your 100% sure your charging system is up to don't spend the money on it.

Looking into a sealed agm battery in the 7-8mAh range.
 
trek97 said:
You are making changes to the electrical system on your bike and your asking us if it has ELECTRIC START?!?!

Sorry, should have phrased that better, what I meant to say is, it's on the bike so why not use it!

trek97 said:
Are you joking !?!? Hang it under the swing arm ?!?! WTF ?!?!

As for under the swing arm, theres plenty of space. If I could find a small enough AGM battery to go under the seat I would use that instead.

Thanks for the info.

Below you can see the build.
 

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trek97 said:
Im sure all 28,292 members here will be most impressed if you can make a lion battery work on a cb360 for more than a few short rides. A stock battery or gel is what you need.

I think you've got lithium ion confused with lithium iron phosphate. Two completely different things. I agree that lithium ion batteries are a bad idea for any vehicle, lithium iron phosphate, on the other hand, are completely stable and designed to take a charge from a regular lead acid charger or stock charging system. Here's an article explaining the differences between the three lithium battery technologies.

http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/lithium-battery-overview.html




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You got a pretty cool and clean build going there.
Im afraid you may discover, at 60-70mph the front tire may start rubbing the lowered fender. and you should probably raise the whole bike back up an inch or so, to get her closer to its stock height. Especially if those rear shocks have any squish to them. You may find she bottoms out.

Ive seen guys mount a battery box above the swing, using the tool box brackets.
 
Above the swing arm, IMHO, is a better place, though I don't like all the vibration it would occur....the stock box is in the best place to avoid vibration, and is rubber mounted....As isolated from vibration you can get on the bike....

But above is better than below....hate to drop off a curb and crush the battery....

And what Sonreir said too +1
 
trek97 said:
You got a pretty cool and clean build going there.
Im afraid you may discover, at 60-70mph the front tire may start rubbing the lowered fender. and you should probably raise the whole bike back up an inch or so, to get her closer to its stock height. Especially if those rear shocks have any squish to them. You may find she bottoms out.

Ive seen guys mount a battery box above the swing, using the tool box brackets.

That front fender isn't bolted on, just sitting there for placement, it will be at stock height so I'll be good there.

As for the rear, its lowered for the stance, I know higher would be better for cornering, but to each his own.
 
bydgoszcz said:
That front fender isn't bolted on, just sitting there for placement, it will be at stock height so I'll be good there.

As for the rear, its lowered for the stance, I know higher would be better for cornering, but to each his own.

Its more than just stance. Its steering and suspension that take a toll as well. But like you said to each his own.
 
I will say it again...shes pretty darn neat looking.
And yes, I couldnt agree more. I am all about "to each his own"
Start your build thread and post what pics you have accumulated. Im interested to see her progress.
 
bydgoszcz said:
That front fender isn't bolted on, just sitting there for placement, it will be at stock height so I'll be good there.

As for the rear, its lowered for the stance, I know higher would be better for cornering, but to each his own.

when you corner, the suspension compresses....Cornering will be better, because the rear wheel may rub the fender, creating excitement....Excitement in a curve is always better than dull...

Hope you appreciate the sarcasm....

Remember, the motorcycle is NOT a car...cars benefit from lowering (assuming reasonable suspension travel). Motorcycles lean over, a different handling proposition. The suspension height does not affect cornering directly as in a car. The other issue is grounding hard pieces...A lower bike often has less cornering ability...

Lower doesn't always = better handling on a motorcycle. Changes in rake and trail can have a negative or positive effect....Do you know what your rake and trail are?

If not, you hunches about stance are just that...they may improve the bike, or make it worse....

I suspect the "Stance" is more about an aggressive look, rather than aggressive handling....

Your bike, your project, so I am cool with whatever you do, but saying it WILL handle better with a lowered rear is probably wrong....You hit a bump in a curve and the suspension bottoms out, the handling goes away real fast...
 
mydlyfkryzis said:
I suspect the "Stance" is more about an aggressive look, rather than aggressive handling....

For me, the stance is exactly that, all about the way she looks, trust me I know lowering this thing to where it's at will negatively affect everything on the bike. This bike is 40 years old, if I want to be doing 100mph and flying around the curves I think I'll stick to my modern bike, I'm building this thing to cruise around town and enjoy what I built.

But, I do appreciate all the input and help.
 
That's where we part company...you are taking a relatively poor handling bike (never did 100 MPH stock, BTW) and lowering it's potential. Not conderned about top speed, but safety. You may not intend to take corners fast, but the moment someone pulls in front of you, or a deer runs across your bow, you want every inch of handling you have....

Good luck with it, drive slowly so people can see it... Really don;t want you getting hurt....
 
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