CB360 help.....open for full details

[born2expire]

it has spark, new cam chain, compression is good, cleaned oil centrifuge, cleaned screen, valves lapped, new seals, valve lash within spec, found an original set of stock filters. this is where its gets shitty....FUEL/CARBS


this thing is driving me up the wall. it has the 747A stamped carbs, ive bought a carb rebuild kit with new jets and all that but i cant find out what the ORIGINAL jet sizes need to be or what everyone is using now. it came with a 2 into 1 exhaust.

when it idles it wants to high idle and i dont know how to sync carbs to save my life and finding anyone to show me in person isnt working out either. the carb diaphragms are good and i dont see any air leaks around the carb boots. if anyone could give me any insight if they have this same setup? i'm in florida so no elevation to worry about here. ive had this thing now for 3 years and want to actually ride it!

 

[raptormeat]

Well the stock sizes are68 main 110 secondary jets38 pilot jet. And to sync if you want to make a vacuum sync you just need a meter stick vinyl tubing and 6 mm adapters made by crazypj bout 13 bucks. Or you can guesstimate by exhaust pressure from both mufflers

 

[raptormeat]

You can always lower the idle with the screw first put yr air mixture screws so it idles as high as it can then lower the idle with idle adjustment screw

 

[born2expire]

thanks for the details ive followed the clymer and i have a digital honda version of the manual im going to go through it one more time. i have the emgo vacuum gauges and they just go nuts and i feel like im doing something wrong. i watched some videos of bench syncing them as a good start and go from there. im going to try that and see where it goes.

also having a problem with a motion pro clutch cable for this bike as well, cant find that sweet spot of the clutch to be able to shift and let it spring back to the normal position it is delayed, im wonder if that steel ball is beyond its wear point and wouldnt hurt to have a new one, i still have the old cable as well and will try that one. i wonder if anyone else's is a PITA!

 

[jungalist]

if the gauges go nuts, doesn't that mean the carbs suck if false air? It could also explain why it wants to idle high... also check your throttle needle hight if you have a feeling it's running too rich... and what do the spark plugs say?

 

[trek97]

if the gauges go nuts, doesn't that mean the carbs suck if false air? It could also explain why it wants to idle high... also check your throttle needle hight if you have a feeling it's running too rich... and what do the spark plugs say?

In these carbs the needle heights are not adjustable.

The clymer manual is a completely useless piece of crap. If you look at the carb section, they are showing mikuni (cable operated slides) style carbs, not keihin (vacuum operated slides) that came on the 360s. Even though I really dont recall...about 10 minutes after I received a copy of clymer, it went into the trash. Then I found the honda manual.

the carb diaphragms are good and i dont see any air leaks around the carb boots.

Are your gauges installed correctly w the 6mm adapters from PJ? The 5mm adapters that are included w the gauges wont work.

If the gauge needles bounce...you need to adjust the inline valves on the gauges themselves. slowly close the valves, and they will stop bouncing yet still give correct reads, but not so far as to close them entirely. The needles should move smoothly as you increase / decrease throttle.

 

[born2expire]

i have crazypj's attachments for the gauges, i will look at my gauges and see if they have a valve but i dont think so. i will look sunday when i get off work and try and dig into it a bit in between some football

 

[born2expire]

for jets i have a 68, 35, and a 100.....ive read soem other posts about how the 360 stock was lean and i bought these carb rebuild kits and this is what it came with.....is this better then the stock and will i be able to get this thing running right?