CB360 hitting the ton...? bike pic too pls

popssss

Active Member
How many of you with the CB360 have been able to take it to the ton?

I just can't get there with mine. at about 85 mph the front end gets a slow wiggle, so I stop.

Today I got to 90, but that's all she has. I tried open pipes, and while it has more pickup in the lower RPM, it dies off up higher.

So what mods have you made to your bike to get there? sprocket changes? carb jets? exhaust?

hook a brother up.
 

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I only got a meager 85 out of mine to, i'm trying a new gear ratio pod filters add open exhaust so I'll let you know once I get it put back together
 
As already pointed out, get handling sorted before anything else
What set up do you have?
tyre sizes, type, age? (I've done 90+ on original tyres, gets a bit 'interesting' ::) )
Tyre pressures?
Rear shocks (stock or aftermarket)
Good wheel bearings, steering bearings and swing arm bearings?
Stock, the bike is geared for about 137mph so it should be faster in 5th rather than 6th gear (6th is 'overdrive' with stock motor)
Mine handles pretty good for a stock frame, stock rims but I have done a few mods
I also have a couple more with more extensive modifications ;)
I've posted this pic a couple of times, but, I like it ;D
Saturday4thJune2011-1.jpg
 
The front tire is 100/90/18 versus 90/90/18, but I don't think it should have too much an effect other than a slightly slower speed reading.
tire-rack has a great tire comparison, which will show you speedo error, and revolutions per mile and such.

I didn't check the tire pressure.

The wheel balance is fine, the bearings are new, the shocks and forks are stock.

don't know about the swingarm bearing, but it feels fine when it's up in the air and I'm rattling stuff around.

I'd like to push the forks up a bit though, that may help.

I'll take a picture of the tire when I get home.

it handles so well and feels just right otherwise.

I traded a 1983 cb550SC for it, that I had just completed, with cafe seat, , copper plating, powdercoated and painted frame and tank, all the good stuff.
I'll post a pic when I get home of that too.
 
I did a search on amazon for 7 inch bluedot headlight....
http://www.amazon.com/Adjure-T70403-Tri-Bar-Motorcycle-Headlight/dp/B006XG5FG4/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335984891&sr=8-1-spell

autocare depot.

then I went to DCC and got this.
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-lighting-parts-chrome-7-inch-headlight-bucket-66-65040.html

but to mount it, I had a 1980 KZ650 headlight bracket, and it fit PERFECTLY, zero modification.....

the stock headlight mount didn't work, and the cool ones that clamp to the bars didn't look like they would work, so I guess I got lucky.

The beam pattern is a nicely placed rectangle on the road in front of you.

hope this helps.
 
popssss said:
I'd like to push the forks up a bit though, that may help.

You're talking about lowering the front end? That could worsen your wobble, all other things being equal.
 
I'd need to see what that does to the trail...but I'm thinking it would take out any propensity to wiggle because the shorter the forks are-then they're stiffer.

Good point though, cause I just don't know what it could do...
 
When you say "push the forks up", I assume you mean sliding them up through the triple clamps. If that's the case, it won't make them stiffer. If you cut the springs, it will increase the spring rate, making them stiffer. That, and increasing the preload on the springs is the only way to get stiffer forks. But I wouldn't recommend too much of that just yet. Lowering the front end in any way will make it steer quicker, and accentuate your wobble, especially if it's coming from the front. Common causes of wobble come from bad steering head bearings, bad swing arm bushings, bad wheel bearings, rims out of true, wheels out of alignment, wacky geometry, tweaked frame, and so on. Check everything that has to do with your suspension.
 
Front tyre is too big on stock rim and will affect handling (you only have a 1.60 rim)
Pressure isn't going to make a lot off difference.
To get same contact patch as 90/90 you will have to run tyres too soft to be safe (lower pressure, probably 18~20psi)
Dropping forks through yokes will make steering 'quicker because your reducing trail AND increasing steering head angle
 
OK so my front tire is actually a 100/90/18....shouldn't it be 90/90/18?

Pic of tire size and pattern.....

I figured that dropping the forks would make it quicker for the reason you mentioned too.

So I'm thinking I should be looking into a 18 tooth front sprocket first, then later a bigger rear sprocket...
 

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Tread pattern shouldn't cause a problem but the size may be an issue over 80?
You need to check and adjust tyre pressure, get a decent tyre pressure gauge, some of the cheap ones were a lot more accurate than the electronic ones, you can probably find Consumer Report test with Google?
I run my tyres at 28~32psi front and 32~36 rear, but that's 90/90 and 110/90 on stock rims.
 
On Pjs and Sonriers advisement I got an 18 front sprocket and am still waiting on my 34 rear tooth to come in, if you decide to get the 18t front youll have to grind the flanges flush for it to fit correctly, my rear should be in tom so ill be able to ride and post up results
 
Thanks Crazy, I'll look at that. I've purchased a few tire pressure gauges and you're right, most are junk, and the cheap ones with the pop-out indicators are usually the more accurate of the bunch.

LT....I look forward to your results.....hell, I may just have to build a 350 engine and drop that in. I think it would be the best of what the 360 has (being a slightly stronger frame, and the 350 a slightly stronger motor.
 
350 isn't a stronger motor, but, due to race restrictions, more is available for them.
They have the exact same cam bearing problem if operated at high rpm, the plunger pump isn't as eficient as trochoidal rotor which is why they last longer.
Problem isn't low oil pressure, pressure is too high on 360
 
wow I hadn't realized that...so what's the max horsepower folks are getting from there 360s?
 
I posted dyno run print out in my 360 build/blog.
It was running crazy rich so wasn't getting close to max power.
It's running 'nice' now but with a completely different exhaust tuned for more torque.
Probably still making around 38bhp though?
 
Did a small test run the other day on I4 with mine, capped out at about 92-94 as my brother was pacing me for speed on his R1. revs didn't wanna climb past 8k. in 6th though... didn't think about leaving it in 5th? i'm sure I'm still Lean as heck. need to get my hands on a vac gauge and a jet kit to tune them out. then try again. after that i'll look into gearing, but i trust PJ when he says they are good stock till 137 so i'm hoping its the Air/Fuel.
 
I got to just over 90 the other day, but by luck I think.


I just took off the air box, and using the stock air filters got a lot more sound too...I'm sure I leaned it out a touch...just how much I couldn't say.


maybe I'll replace my plugs with cooler ones too.


Ideas anyone?
 
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