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What jets should I run with pods and a different exhaust? The pods are the K&N type from DCC and the exhaust is the shorty reverse cone mufflers from DCC.
I just want a starting point so I will be close when I get her running.
107.5 to 110 secondary mains
Pilots and primary are OK to 4,500pmunless you run short open pipes
It will be rich mid-range and loose power.
You need new air correctors in carb top.
Depending on exact carb type, I may be able to make some air correctors.
Heres a basic guide to carby tuning that should help you understand a bit more about the modifications you're going to do, and also some very basic jetting advice. Mostly its theory-oriented, but that does help. PJ's advice is worth it weight in gold, BTW.
107.5 to 110 secondary mains
Pilots and primary are OK to 4,500pmunless you run short open pipes
It will be rich mid-range and loose power.
You need new air correctors in carb top.
Depending on exact carb type, I may be able to make some air correctors.
107.5 to 110 secondary mains
Pilots and primary are OK to 4,500pmunless you run short open pipes
It will be rich mid-range and loose power.
You need new air correctors in carb top.
Depending on exact carb type, I may be able to make some air correctors.
I went with the 110's and no complaints, it loves to rev from 5000- to about 8500rpms, below that it's ok from 3000- 5000, below 3000 it's kinda iffy... any suggestions? It idles and starts great, smooth through acceleration, it's just when you chug along around 3k.
It's probably a bit rich on main jet and way rich everywhere else.
What colour are spark plugs?
They should be light grey to very light brown (beige?)
darker than that is rich (you don't/shouldn't get light chocolate brown with modern fuels)
It's probably a bit rich on main jet and way rich everywhere else.
What colour are spark plugs?
They should be light grey to very light brown (beige?)
darker than that is rich (you don't/shouldn't get light chocolate brown with modern fuels)
I took them out this morning and they were both a light grey color. Last night I drove it a total of about 90 miles, the temps when we started were about 65 F and on the way home were about 50 F.
If you can post up a pic that'd be awesome. Heres a quick reference:
Its not the 'bible' of spark plugs, but see that tan kinda colour on the 'normal' ones insulator? Thats what you're after. White would indicate a too lean mixture, but grey is usually acceptable.
Definately follow the above recommendations about reading the plugs, anyone can give you a basic jet size starting point and even the same models of engines can vary dependant up air flow and many other variables but your cylinders do not tell stories and your plugs are waiting to give you all of the answers you desire, definately do not run it lean, if the plugs are snow white go to larger jets immediately! A lot of engines like to scream on the lean side but you will quickly destroy the engine.
You have run 90 miles on those plugs? One thing is for sure your cylinders must be in great condition as I see no trace of oil at all, definately a good sign. Kind of hard to tell from photos but they look a little whiter than I normally like but then again there is a little soot around the base so you may be ok, I really like a nice light tan color.
Actually there is closer to 120 miles on them now. I am still thinking about going up a size or two, maybe 112's or ? for the secondaries, do you think I should bump up the mains as well?
If you did a plug chop I'd say they were OK. The tips are clean like they should be and the unleaded is leaving a sooty deposit on the shell. From that small picture we see no signs of cement boil or blistering and no signs of overheating on the electrodes.
But you need to look deep inside the plug to tell what the mixture is doing and for that you need a clean plug chop, magnifying glass and source of light to see into the plug where the insulator meets the steel shell. Anyone that tells you they can read your main jet settings form a bike that wasn't running on the main jet when it stopped is obviously not giving you an accurate answer.
What teazer means is that you need to take a backpack with some tools in it, and strap in so you can find a straight bit of empty road.
Got that straight in your sights? No-one around? Sweet... gun it. No kidding, hold the throttle wide open in as high a gear as you dare and run max revs in that gear - say 500 before redline or even on it.
Flat out down that straight? Good stuff champ, you bust the ton? Almost, not quite? Well... time to chop anyway. Simultaneously pull in the clutch and hit the kill switch. Coast to a stop and pull the sparkplugs. Their colour will be an accurate indication of how the bike is running on the mainjet.
And thats how you do a plugchop for mainjet diagnosis.
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