pkoster
Proud member of the blue CB360 club
Well I had another post about the cam chain adjustment (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=60881.0) Got great help.
Since I'm not doing a break down I'll keep this thread active with pics to log my maintenance/tuning/etc. on the CB360. If there is a better location please let me know and I'll move it.
Main issue now is getting rid of the missfire/stutter at around 4K-5K when cruising. Accelerating through this works great and at higher RPM it is great.
Things I have done so far:
1) Cam chain tension: Checked the cam movement and it looked great, no slack or lag when turning the crankshaft.
result - no change in stutter. But I think it was quieter, hard to tell.
2) Valve adjust: checked intake at 0.002" and exhaust at 0.003". No adjustment, both sides seemed the same. It is hard to tell with so little room and very small gaps. My worry was they were too tight and preventing the valves from closing fully. But I could definitely feel a little play when the valves were closed.
3) Points & static timing: First checked the timing, it was a little late (1-2 deg.) on both left and right. So I decided to pull the points plate to check the advancer too..
Points plate before removal (points-pre.jpg): looks good to me.. this is the first I've seen though in person...
Advancer (advancer.jpg): Also looks fairly clean, springs intact. There is a little play when springs are loose. Is this normal?
Inspection of left and right point (point-left.jpg & point-right.jpg): There seemed to be a little marking in one area on both points, didn't notice any pitting. So I cleaned up the points with some 400-grit black emery paper, then used clean plain paper to pull through until clean. I've read to never use sand paper, use a point file and also that emery paper is ok. I tried a small metal nail file, but was not working well, to big. I didn't remove the points from the plate. I re-installed, adjusted gaps, did the timing and got very close to bang on.
I also added some Seafoam to the gas and oil.
Result: I think it is better. Certainly feels like less stutter. It idles and fine (same as before, maybe smoother), and pulls great when opened up (same as before). When cruising around the 4K-5K range it is still stuttering a little. I took it out for a couple hours and I think the stuttering slowly got worse, not sure. I think it still feels better than before.
My goal is to get rid of the misfires/stutter so the bike fires on both cylinders through the whole range consistently.
My next maintenance & plan to resolve this:
1) Change the oil... after the Seafoam in the oil they suggest this. And I did notice it was darker after the ride, so maybe something is being cleaned up.
2) Remove the points completely and clean them really, really well, and use paper with Acetone to get rid of any oil & residue. Any advice on point cleaning? (I will be ordering new ones too).
3) Find out source of spark plug fouling (sparkplug.jpg), Both look like this, I think this indicates way to lean - how to fix this?
4) Improve compression - seeing about 130&140 when warmed up. Is the spoonful of oil in the cylinder trick a good test to see if the rings are OK?
5) remove and check & clean carbs, replace boots (after the season)
Lots of fun & things to do. I usually do thing one at a time and measure the impact.
Cheers
Since I'm not doing a break down I'll keep this thread active with pics to log my maintenance/tuning/etc. on the CB360. If there is a better location please let me know and I'll move it.
Main issue now is getting rid of the missfire/stutter at around 4K-5K when cruising. Accelerating through this works great and at higher RPM it is great.
Things I have done so far:
1) Cam chain tension: Checked the cam movement and it looked great, no slack or lag when turning the crankshaft.
result - no change in stutter. But I think it was quieter, hard to tell.
2) Valve adjust: checked intake at 0.002" and exhaust at 0.003". No adjustment, both sides seemed the same. It is hard to tell with so little room and very small gaps. My worry was they were too tight and preventing the valves from closing fully. But I could definitely feel a little play when the valves were closed.
3) Points & static timing: First checked the timing, it was a little late (1-2 deg.) on both left and right. So I decided to pull the points plate to check the advancer too..
Points plate before removal (points-pre.jpg): looks good to me.. this is the first I've seen though in person...
Advancer (advancer.jpg): Also looks fairly clean, springs intact. There is a little play when springs are loose. Is this normal?
Inspection of left and right point (point-left.jpg & point-right.jpg): There seemed to be a little marking in one area on both points, didn't notice any pitting. So I cleaned up the points with some 400-grit black emery paper, then used clean plain paper to pull through until clean. I've read to never use sand paper, use a point file and also that emery paper is ok. I tried a small metal nail file, but was not working well, to big. I didn't remove the points from the plate. I re-installed, adjusted gaps, did the timing and got very close to bang on.
I also added some Seafoam to the gas and oil.
Result: I think it is better. Certainly feels like less stutter. It idles and fine (same as before, maybe smoother), and pulls great when opened up (same as before). When cruising around the 4K-5K range it is still stuttering a little. I took it out for a couple hours and I think the stuttering slowly got worse, not sure. I think it still feels better than before.
My goal is to get rid of the misfires/stutter so the bike fires on both cylinders through the whole range consistently.
My next maintenance & plan to resolve this:
1) Change the oil... after the Seafoam in the oil they suggest this. And I did notice it was darker after the ride, so maybe something is being cleaned up.
2) Remove the points completely and clean them really, really well, and use paper with Acetone to get rid of any oil & residue. Any advice on point cleaning? (I will be ordering new ones too).
3) Find out source of spark plug fouling (sparkplug.jpg), Both look like this, I think this indicates way to lean - how to fix this?
4) Improve compression - seeing about 130&140 when warmed up. Is the spoonful of oil in the cylinder trick a good test to see if the rings are OK?
5) remove and check & clean carbs, replace boots (after the season)
Lots of fun & things to do. I usually do thing one at a time and measure the impact.
Cheers