CB360 Rear Hub Painting

oathamm

Active Member
Hi
Maybe a dumb question but I'm planning on having my 74 CB360 rear hub painted, should I mask the inside where the shoes sit or go ahead and spray the inners? What have other people done.
Thanks
 
Cheers Chronic, I was more worried about brake effectiveness and paint flaking off etc if I were to paint inside. Thanks.
 
you don't want to paint inside the hub as

a) its not going to help heat dissipation (painting outside won't help that either) even polishing hubs will retard heat dissipation as the original (slightly) rough castings have more surface area to lose heat through.
same goes for chroming hubs/cases, the heat gets held in by the coating and will eventually bubble and peel away

b) the paint will come off the swept areas within the first couple of applications of the brakes and leave a whole load of flake/dust crap that will either try and get out or clag up the bearings inside the hub
 
dont paint the inside of the hub, if its dirty let it soak in vinegar for a long time, it made mine perfect and clean.
If you paint it there is no benifit, only a risk of having the paint flake off and stick to or mess up your brakes.
 
I do all sorts of fun stuff with hubs, turned all the (pointless) fins off 360 front
360-newwheel1.jpg

Rear got polished and painted
to match
RearTyre2.jpg

Put some holes in rear brake plate to fit brass vents
Brakeplate-fitted-2.jpg

'Standard' black 360 rear that got the above brake plate on the second re-build. Went from WM3 steel rim to WM3 MX alloy rim and new spokes
RearWheel_zps002f1e61.jpg

Highly modified rear hub, painted inside because blue is visible through vents
DSCN3684.jpg

Front and rear
Wheels-finished.jpg

Close up of modified rear hub (CB360)
Rearhub2.jpg
 
You can do the cleaning and painting with a wire wheel in 'Black & Decker', round file and bunch of elbow grease.
I'm from South Wales so know how to do 'something with 'nothing'. ;)
The polishing you do with 'wetordry' and soapy water, 120, 240, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200 'Solvol Autosol'
Takes a while and wears your fingers out but it can be done ;D
 
No shit crazypj can't believe you are in Wales (I'm often in Wales at the Mick Extance schools in LLangynog, beautiful part of the country). I assumed you were in the US because of the time you usually reply, don't you sleep?

So are you wheeliewales on eBay? I need one of you starter removal plugs!

I've had some decent results with wet and dry and Auto Solve on my cases, although in one I've got a nasty scratch, do you recommend filing it out then hitting with wet and dry?

Expect to be bugged! I'm on my first CB360 build, fun but slow progress. I'm at the point now where I need to start spending cash on parts and labour for things like welding and wheel building, the rest I'm hoping I can take care of myself.
 
I'm from Wales, living in Florida. I don't sleep much though since back got messed up a few years ago (see avatar :( )
Pretty sure Wheeliwales is a friend of mine I sent a couple of starter plugs to last year, will have to check.
I can send one direct but you'll end up paying some import duties.
Not sure if he has any left?
If you have any real deep scratches file them out using plenty of WD40 or alloy will 'pick up' on file and cause even more damage. Probably need 80 grit after filing then work through all the grades again

Oh, if you see any modified CJ250 parts or bikes about, mine was stolen from Aberkenfig a few months ago (scroll to almost bottom of page)
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=21309.msg723288#msg723288
 
Funny you mention your back, I'm lying in a hospital bed as I type waiting for a back op, nothing as serious as yours though. Hope you are ok.

I'll ping wheeliewales when I have some cash and see if he has any left, if not I'll get one from you.

Thanks for the filing advice I'll give that a go, gonna have the lump soda blasted at the weekend to hopefully clean up the barrels, not expecting miracles but curious all the same, I'll take some before and after shots.

I decided to wet spray the hubs rather than powder coating simply because I can't be bothered to remove the cush drive bushings and replace, the coater said he could bake with the bushings in situ but rather not take the chance. What's the general rule for replacing cush drive bushings? How many miles are they good for? Removal and fitting seems like a ball ache I'd rather skip.

Cheers guys
 
Cush drive bushings are either good or broken, there isn't any 'slightly worn with them unlike the larger Honda's and most other manufacturers
They are a royal PITA to replace as the steel shell almost always refuses to move. (they have inner steel bush, rubber 'bearing', outer steel shell)
They will not stand up to 400 deg f powder coat temps
 
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