Out of sync carbs will make the bike vibrate like hell, too. Like a cheap motel massage bed. Just want to add that in there with all that love from papa.
CB360 Running rough
- Thread starter nnichols211
- Start date
Trevor May
Been Around the Block
If your machine won't even start can you reliably set the carb balance on the bench?
Trevor May
Been Around the Block
Swan, who appears to have the pulse of restoration, recommends 30% wintergreen oil and 70% xylene as a home made rubber renew. Warm and soak in sealed mason jar for 12 hrs. Put rubber intakes and manifolds. I'm going to try this myself. Won't fix cracks.
nnichols211
New Member
Haha thanks for the tough love trek97...I need it after today. I really appreciate the help. I compared what you were saying to your diagram and I was agjusting the correct screws, I apologize if I was calling them different things. I sprayed starter fluid around the intake boots and the carb itself but it didn't change the rpms at all. The butterfly valves snap back when the throttle is released, there is play in the throttle cable, and when I take the carbs off and play with the throttle, the butteryfly valves aren't getting hung up on anything. The slides move freely up and down and the diaphragms have a good seal.
I am setting the idle speed using trek97's process writeup, with a hot engine setting the idle speed screw to 1200 rpm and then adjusting the A/F mixture screws slightly (the A/F mixture screws don't seem to affect the rpms at all when I am adjusting the mixture). Right now I have them set to 1.5 turns out from lightly seated. It will idle nicely at 1200 but as soon as i ride it and come to a stop, the idle will like to hang around 2000-2500 (varies each time between 2000 and 2500.)
I PM'd crazypj for some adapters so I can sync the carbs. One thing I noticed today when tinkering around is that after I took off the fuel lines, I checked the fuel flow out of the petcock and when I switch the the knob to "on", the two outlets have very different flows out of each. One outlet drips fuel out of it significantly faster than the other. Not sure if this could also cause the erratic idle, but it doesn't seem to make a difference when I'm riding it. The bike accelerates smoothly through all the gears, no popping out of the exhaust, no hesitations, and no motel bed vibrations lol so I don't think that the carbs are too far out of sync.
I am setting the idle speed using trek97's process writeup, with a hot engine setting the idle speed screw to 1200 rpm and then adjusting the A/F mixture screws slightly (the A/F mixture screws don't seem to affect the rpms at all when I am adjusting the mixture). Right now I have them set to 1.5 turns out from lightly seated. It will idle nicely at 1200 but as soon as i ride it and come to a stop, the idle will like to hang around 2000-2500 (varies each time between 2000 and 2500.)
I PM'd crazypj for some adapters so I can sync the carbs. One thing I noticed today when tinkering around is that after I took off the fuel lines, I checked the fuel flow out of the petcock and when I switch the the knob to "on", the two outlets have very different flows out of each. One outlet drips fuel out of it significantly faster than the other. Not sure if this could also cause the erratic idle, but it doesn't seem to make a difference when I'm riding it. The bike accelerates smoothly through all the gears, no popping out of the exhaust, no hesitations, and no motel bed vibrations lol so I don't think that the carbs are too far out of sync.
That's normal operation of the petcock. When your carb float bowls fill, you don't want it trying to fill, so they're made to stop flowing. You can blow air into one side or the other while it's off the bike to get it to switch back and forth.
nnichols211
New Member
I can double check compression tomorrow but I compression tested a few days ago and it read 160 psi in both. I haven't checked valves yet
nnichols211
New Member
Just wanted to post an update. Compression is 160 in both cylinders, timing advancer is lubricated, and no air leaks around the carb. After some tinkering I realized that it was only idling on the left cylinder, so I took the pilot jet out of the right carb and made sure it was clean and clear. That didn't have any effect on the idling. But I did get my vacuum adapters from crazypj today and I was able to sync the carbs. I synched the carbs to each other, and it ran smoother, idled on both cylinders, and sounded much better. However, once I turned the bike off after I did the sync to put the gas tank on, I started it up to take it for a ride and it would now only idle on the right cylinder. I had to turn the idle speed up to prevent it from dying out (idling on the right cylinder at this point) When I take it for a spin now, the left cylinder will kick in as soon as I give it more throttle, and it seems every time i stop it will idle at 3000 (I'm assuming cause both cylinders are idling and right before this happened I set the idle to 1400 with just the right cylinder idling.) With both cylinders idling at 3000, I try to adjust the idle speed to set it at 1200 and as soon as i slightly turn the screw, the left cylinder will cut out again. I think I have now identified the problem and will just have to do some more fine tuning tomorrow.
