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This is a new problem. Went for a ride and bike was going very well at normal city speeds 50-70 km/h. Got onto a stretch of freeway and up to 120 km/h/7000 rpm. After this the bike started stalling and didn't stay running even when I tried to give her some gas. She started second kick again and revved up well, but had very little torque and stalled at a stop light soon after. After the second stalling, she only started with a choke on and left cylinder quit firing.
I checked the spark and while the left plug was black and wet, there is a spark. Need to get new plugs I suppose. Next I'll check the carbs just in case. She does start but only right cylinder is firing.
Any tips what may be the issue here or what to check next?
Checked the carbs, valve tappets, ignition all to be good and put it back together. Didn't make any changes, but somehow she decided to start running better. Started with my test ride loop and kept going since she was running well. Ended up doing a 55 km loop and took her up to 120 km/h to push a bit. Only thing was that the idle seemed bit off.
My bike is like an old grumpy guy. One day everything seems fine and the next it's pissing vinegar and hacking out a lung only to be all awesome the day after, all with no obvious reason. The bike is older than me so what can you do...
Last year...I found if I took her up around 8000+ my timing would be off. spitting, sputtering, mis fire, no power. I would re-set timing. then later hit 8000+ and again timing off.
I reset my cam chain tensioner adj bolt. after that everything was fine. timing issues disappeared. I think the loose chain would pop in and out of the grooves worn in old tensioners...that was enough to change timing a bit so that she would still start and run...only crappy.
The timing issue was something I was thinking about. I have checked the ignition, but it has always been OK. I don't think that she has enough miles to be to worn down and I did adjust the tensioner, but she's approaching her 40's so who knows. We're getting that nasty white stuff right now so I may not be able to test her at higher RPM's before next spring.
Many replacement seals are too wide and cover the tiny (1-2mm) hole on the lower surface of the filler cap. It's usually out toward teh outside edge and OEM gaskets didn't go out that far.
Pull the gasket off and look for a tiny hole. It's drilled through the lower part and allows air in as fuel is used. It's not obvious but the cap is made from and upper (chromed) cover and a lower steel part and there's a gap between them that acts as the air passage.
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