cb360 timing issue. Have tried for too long to not ask for help

[beerob81]

So I've gone through threads and videos, and I'm a bit stumped. I'm sure its there but the answer may be buried deep in the comments (per usual) and my eyes are missing it.

It was running fine before, I had set the points and the bike ran fine for a few months and inevitably it started to idle lower and cut off on me, then I messed with the points and blah.

So I went to just start over. Followed the steps on the multiple videos available on youtube (most of which have way too much in between chatter than basic 1.2.3. steps). It seemed that the timing was a bit off, so I messed with rotating the points plate, my test light was going off a bit early, even when rotated all the way to the left as far as it would go it was going off just a hair early, and I figure this is one of those things where close enough isn't good enough.

So what do I do to fix this? Is there a guide out there to basically start from A and get to B in basic mechanical terms? I got very frustrated at some of the tutorials on youtube because they were done at night with poor lighting or very out of focus and most annoyingly of all just contained a bunch of chatter and errors.

Thanks for any help in advance, if there is a good thread I can be linked to or whatever I'll remove this if it's cluttering the feed. again thanks.

 

[HerrDeacon]

How to time a Honda Twin

• When you set the gap on the left points, you should do it when the points are at their widest opening (the "follower" is on the highest "bump" on the breaker cam of the advance unit)
• Lock the left point screws down to keep it at the .014 gap on the plate
• Then, with crankshaft now rotated and held on the LF index during the left compression stroke, rotate the entire plate to get the left points to just open (light the light) and lock down the plate
• The plate MUST remain where it now is, no further adjustments are made to the plate
• Rotate engine to the F index of the right compression stroke
• Set right points to just break
• Lock the right points down
• Now you check the right points gap by rotating the engine until its follower is on the biggest bump
• If it is anywhere within the spec range, you are done
• Don't adjust the right gap (or anything else) further
• Gaps do NOT have to be any certain amount or even, just within the spec range
  

 

[beerob81]

Thanks Herr. It's raining now (has been for weeks) I'm hoping to catch another break in the morning and I hope this works (should) Thanks again!

 

[beerob81]

Thanks Herr. It's raining now (has been for weeks) I'm hoping to catch another break in the morning and I hope this works (should) Thanks again!

sun was out today, waited till it cooled off a bit though. Followed your directions and got it going on the first go. thank you for the very direct and simple to follow instructions.

 

[HerrDeacon]

That's excellent. I can't take credit for the instructions though. They are from the Steve over on HondaTwins.net, he is a guru with these bikes. He posted that a while ago and I saved it so I could use it myself. Glad it helped you out as well.

 

[beerob81]

That's excellent. I can't take credit for the instructions though. They are from the Steve over on HondaTwins.net, he is a guru with these bikes. He posted that a while ago and I saved it so I could use it myself. Glad it helped you out as well.

was it on a sticky or anything? Like I said before, i probably passed right over it...sifting gets so time consuming sometimes and it really just feels defeating, plus bad weather...hopefully gonna take her out for a spin in the morning, then I gotta jet the carbs...tuning it after that I'm sure is gonna be a bitch.

 

[HerrDeacon]

No, but I just created it over there and made it a sticky. His instructions are much better and clearer than the manuals.

Tuning the carbs can be overwhelming but just take it one step at a time and you'll be fine. One change at a time as well.