cb360 wiring harness bare bones

blueandy

Been Around the Block
so i got the wiring harness down to the bare. at leat i thought i did until i tried to hook up the keys to the rest and there was constant power to the system. i then ran a toggle to see if there was a difference and i can shut the power off but still have no fire to the coils. which i didnt have wether the key was tied in to the harness or the toggle was. so i pulled the harness out so maybe one of you electrical guys could possibly help me. basically what i have so far is

1: Rectifier. the pink off the rectifier ties with the pink into the stator. The red wire is going as the main power to the harness, or toggle switch, which then goes to battery. The green off the recitifier ties in with the green off the stator, the green off the regulator, and the green off the stator. The yellow ties in with the yellows off stator and regulator

2: Regulator. I have the green off the regulator tying in with the grounds off the stator plug and recitifier, which has a lead to ground to battery. The yellow ties in with the stator and rectifier. The black i have sitting to the side at the moment.

3: Stator. Again the yellow, and green tied in with rec and regulator. the teal green/red wire is sitting to the side , (seems as if thats the neutral wire) and i have a long white wire coming from the stator. Unsure of where that goes although i assume towards the kill switch on the right side of the handle bars. i will have pics uploaded shortly. cleaning out the vacay pics first. And any help appreciated. the stocker was chewed on by the dog, and i couldnt help myself with the cold weather.
 
[quote author=blueandy]1: Rectifier. the pink off the rectifier ties with the pink into the stator. The red wire is going as the main power to the harness, or toggle switch, which then goes to battery. The green off the recitifier ties in with the green off the stator, the green off the regulator, and the green off the stator. The yellow ties in with the yellows off stator and regulator[/quote]

Green from stator is the neutral light indicator. Leave this disconnected. Green from rectifier goes to the frame. Red wire goes from rectifier to battery without a switch. Switch comes after both the battery and the rectifier. Red wires should now be black at this point. Yellow to yellow on stator/rectifier is correct.

[quote author=blueandy]2: Regulator. I have the green off the regulator tying in with the grounds off the stator plug and recitifier, which has a lead to ground to battery. The yellow ties in with the stator and rectifier. The black i have sitting to the side at the moment. [/quote]

Black gets hooked in with black after the switch from the red in the previous section. Yellow-to-yellow is correct and green to frame is also correct.

[quote author=blueandy]3: Stator. Again the yellow, and green tied in with rec and regulator. the teal green/red wire is sitting to the side , (seems as if thats the neutral wire) and i have a long white wire coming from the stator. Unsure of where that goes although i assume towards the kill switch on the right side of the handle bars. i will have pics uploaded shortly. cleaning out the vacay pics first. And any help appreciated. the stocker was chewed on by the dog, and i couldnt help myself with the cold weather.[/quote]

White wire should be spliced into the yellow wire prior to the regulator and rectifier.
 
Where do the coils make their entrance in this? Im am electronically illiterate. at the moment im drwaing the diagram in microsoft paint so i get it right. its the whole switch coming on after the battery and rec, and going to black. basically the switch.
 
im am electronically illiterate? maybe just totally illiterate. lol. anyway thanks for the help sonreir. and im running your gauge faces btw, just not currently. wanted to make sure i get fire to key and coil before i step into the process of wiring tacho and neutral light.
 
Black wire (switched hot) goes into the kill switch. From there, black/white wires feed the coils.

If you're looking to lose the kill switch, black wires can go directly from the main battery switch to the coils.
 
Red wire goes from rectifier to battery without a switch. Switch comes after both the battery and the rectifier. Red wires should now be black at this point.

this is the spot i dont quite get. ive run red to rec, but then im stuck. run another red off battery to switch. ill up load a photo when i get home, and thanks again for the help. youve done more than anyone elso i know so far.
 
so heres the picture. the White box in the right side is what im using as a battery. Sothe red off the rectifier goes into battery. so how do i wire the key switch into this? Then ive got the yellows in the right side. The stator plug is at the bottom(its a 6 pin trailor hitch harness where im only using what i need) . So i would splice the white off the stator into the yellow on the stator before the yellow gets to rectifier and regulator, right?
mirrorswiring013.jpg


mirrorswiring010.jpg
 
[quote author=blueandy]so heres the picture. the White box in the right side is what im using as a battery. Sothe red off the rectifier goes into battery. so how do i wire the key switch into this?[/quote]

You don't. The rectifier runs to the battery all of the time (no switch). The switch comes from the battery to the rest of the wiring.

You want something like this:
 

Attachments

  • wiring.png
    wiring.png
    9 KB · Views: 1,744
You'll want to run at least one fuse (5A should be OK) right before your ignition switch, too.
 
The white is actually 1/3 of a charging circuit. The yellow is the other 2/3 and the pink is a full circuit. So your stator has two full charging circuits, one of which is divided.

In stock form, the white (1/3 circuit) only gets used when the high beams are on. It's a common modification to splice the white and yellow together, effectively giving you two pinks...

Hope that made sense...

-Matt
 
im assuming after hook up , i would run the hot on test light to the black wire after key switch, and the ground off test light to frame? because if thats the case, the test light comes on when i turn the key to the on position, and off when i turn it to the off position.
 
god i made this harder than it was. Sonreir, if i win the powerball, what bike do you want? Now the black lead off of coils goes to black keyswitch i guess?
 
Yup. Anything you wants on all the time can be wired directly to black. Other stuff, like brake lights, need another switch between the black and whatever needs power.

I'll take a VFR1200F. ;D
 
just rode a 87 vfr700 (the white shark) over thankgiving. father in' laws. for a 87' that thing has got some power.
 
for anyone that can, i highly recommend this setup. i fits in my battery box with no issue whatsoever. A big thank you to sonreir. Pic without grounds hooked up, or battery. ive tucked the headllight wires to side of frame as well as rear and front brake switch. Man so much easier to hide wires. now for new coil hook ups and hopefully back down the road.
wiringhraness004.jpg
 
No problem, man.

Also, don't forget to cap off those spare wires. If they touch the frame you'll blow a fuse.
 
getting no power to coils . running the mikes xs coils. checked every connection, the black off coils goes to black on ignition, not to the yellow off reg, / rectifer right?
 
Back
Top Bottom