CB360T Build/Rebuild
- Thread starter cholland_
- Start date
First of all, I figured out my clutch issue... I'd rather not say what it was because it was my fauilt 
The throttle's still sticking when on the clubman bars. I'm thinkin' I need to sand down the bar underneath the throttle to lessen the resistance, but I'm not so sure. Plus, I think I'd let to get a new set of cables, but not sure where I can find them.
Also figured out the tank needs some clearancing on the inside to clear the coils...
Thanks! I've got the front signals all apart, but even if there was no stem at all, I think they'd hit bolted into their stock location. Right now I'm trying to figure out a way to attach them directly to the headlight bucket (with a shortened stem, probably).
Both tires are Bridgestone Spitfire S11's.
The throttle's still sticking when on the clubman bars. I'm thinkin' I need to sand down the bar underneath the throttle to lessen the resistance, but I'm not so sure. Plus, I think I'd let to get a new set of cables, but not sure where I can find them.Also figured out the tank needs some clearancing on the inside to clear the coils...
saucer said:
Thanks! I've got the front signals all apart, but even if there was no stem at all, I think they'd hit bolted into their stock location. Right now I'm trying to figure out a way to attach them directly to the headlight bucket (with a shortened stem, probably).
mysta2 said:
Both tires are Bridgestone Spitfire S11's.
IMOALE said:This is how mine are on my cb350 with shortened stems
That's what I'm looking for... how are they mounted? It's hard to tell from the picture.
Anyways, here's some pictures of it today. I threw the original tank on for appearances while the new tank doesn't fit.
Light work! The electrical system should be all set up.
Another picture of the exhaust. And yes, I do plan on trimming down the hose clamps.
The gauges are still pretty grungy and need some cleaning up:
jason teamshralp
Been Around the Block
are your grip flanges rubbing on your controls? That is why my throttle sticks some times. If it is cut the flange off or cut the other end off and slide the grip down a little bit, or but a washer that will fit over the throttle and buffer between the controls and grip flange... make sense?
I used the front stems in place of the front bucket bolts. I'm not sure if it the same on the 360 but I think it shoulb be. I shortened the stems in half. Will charge camera/ have head light off right now for wiring / will snap pics for ya. What sizes exactly tires? Gonna buy the same tires.
IMOALE said:
Front tire is 100/90-18 and rear is 110/90-18.
Well, the front turn stems are larger than the front bucket bolts, but I'll figure something out :-\
Didn't get much accomplished this weekend (on the bike, but I did get lots of drinking accomplished), but did find some time to make up a little bracket for hanging the muffler. I wasn't really impressed by the way it fit with the original hanger.
Thank I just orderd a set for my ride. snap some shots of your stems and the holes on ur bucket maybe set of cb350 stems will work. I think I have some extra I have to look. do u have a caliper my you can measure the bolt hole in ur bucket to mak sure, or you can just drill some new holes in your headlight ears.
cholland_ said:Front tire is 100/90-18 and rear is 110/90-18.
Well, the front turn stems are larger than the front bucket bolts, but I'll figure something out :-\
Didn't get much accomplished this weekend (on the bike, but I did get lots of drinking accomplished), but did find some time to make up a little bracket for hanging the muffler. I wasn't really impressed by the way it fit with the original hanger.
Ya, wasn't great, but worked for the couple weeks i had it on my bike... till i got my hooker ;D
So I have gotten my throttle to work perfectly... except only with the 'pull' cable. As soon as I attached the push cable it stops working.
So my question is... is there any real reason to need a push cable? It works perfectly without it and it seems redundant to me on account of the spring on the carb linkage.
So my question is... is there any real reason to need a push cable? It works perfectly without it and it seems redundant to me on account of the spring on the carb linkage.
tweakedlogic
Been Around the Block
Try turning your cables around at the bars. That bend in there might be binding. Turn around the cables and see if that helps.
Well, after a very long delay... today was a lot of working to get this bike running.
New (older) gas tank resprayed and fitted. Of course, the knee pads and Honda wings still have to be attached, after it gets it's final polish.
As for how it runs... well it doesn't. From the beginning of today to the end, we got it to start, and stay running (very very poorly) at about 1000rpm (with a 500rpm wave in there) if you hold the throttle open all the way. Assuming the timing, points and carbs are all out of whack. But getting them set up as per the book is proving to be very frustrating to me and I'm starting to think about taking it somewhere to get the thing running well again. : It's been frustrating, I'll give it that.
New (older) gas tank resprayed and fitted. Of course, the knee pads and Honda wings still have to be attached, after it gets it's final polish.
As for how it runs... well it doesn't. From the beginning of today to the end, we got it to start, and stay running (very very poorly) at about 1000rpm (with a 500rpm wave in there) if you hold the throttle open all the way. Assuming the timing, points and carbs are all out of whack. But getting them set up as per the book is proving to be very frustrating to me and I'm starting to think about taking it somewhere to get the thing running well again. :
It's been frustrating, I'll give it that.
saucer said:
The tank was POR-15ed, then rattlecanned with real auto-body paint, and then cleared (with a spray gun). It still needs it's final polish (which is why the knee pads and Honda wings aren't on yet).
The carb's were rebuilt and the points are new. So the timing and carb settings are completely destroyed. I had it running a little bit better yesterday, but it's still got a long way to go, and I might need some help from an expert with these engines. I'm going to pull the motor out quickly this week to fix an oil leak between the cylinders and engine block, then we'll get to setting up the engine properly. :
looks like this won't be useful anymore, but just in case..
to get the cylinders off, tap them with a rubber mallet around the corners of the cylinders, avoiding the fins. basically you want to tap near the cylinder studs, that's probably where the cylinders are getting stuck.
also, that "tapping" can be somewhat forceful.
to get the cylinders off, tap them with a rubber mallet around the corners of the cylinders, avoiding the fins. basically you want to tap near the cylinder studs, that's probably where the cylinders are getting stuck.
also, that "tapping" can be somewhat forceful.
Took the motor out and apart yesterday, then put it back together today. I couldn't find any reason for the oil leak, so I just put a light layer of gasket sealer on, and am leaving it to re-torque the cylinder head nuts in a few days.
As for it running so poorly, I *think* I figured out why. Short answer- I need to pay more attention.
As for it running so poorly, I *think* I figured out why. Short answer- I need to pay more attention.
