CB550K - Should I re-jet the carbs after removing air box??
- Thread starter Derwood
- Start date
ApriliaBill
Yeah...I'm old school.
Ok... This can get really sticky, as much as we all would love for there to be a set formula, every bike runs different. I feel most important is to sync the carbs first. It isn't that hard and gives you a baseline to start. I've had bikes that I threw cheap pods on and ran fine with little adjustment, then I've had bikes so touchy, it became a nightmare. I have a Seca 900, and it won't fire with the air filter out. This makes it a little difficult when you're doing some services and tuning.
Pull the air filter out and see if it will run, pull the box and see if it will run, add you pods and see if it will run, if all this works so far, you need to ride it and see where performance drops off.... Idle? Top end? Mid range? Once you have that process defined, then people will have suggestions. You also have to realize changing the exhaust will also have an effect. The best way to do it, is balance. You have to remember an engine is nothing but a big airbox, you have to try to balance the amount of air you take in, to the exhaust you put out, to keep from lean or rich issues. Take it slow, note changes and if it goes awry, put it back where you started. For a guy with little experience, it's best to keep the bike running so you don't lose track of what you did. On a lot of older bikes, people make the adjustments needed just to keep it running. I like to get the carbs synced to bring out the issues that need to be addressed, like maybe the shaft seals or needle jets. Once the carbs are solid, it'll be much easier to get them dialed in. Rejetting a bike with worn shaft seals will be hours of frustration.... Don't be afraid, I don't know the science behind carbs, but rebuilding and adjusting isn't anywhere near as hard as it sounds... Also make sure the intakes are solid and not sucking air.
Pull the air filter out and see if it will run, pull the box and see if it will run, add you pods and see if it will run, if all this works so far, you need to ride it and see where performance drops off.... Idle? Top end? Mid range? Once you have that process defined, then people will have suggestions. You also have to realize changing the exhaust will also have an effect. The best way to do it, is balance. You have to remember an engine is nothing but a big airbox, you have to try to balance the amount of air you take in, to the exhaust you put out, to keep from lean or rich issues. Take it slow, note changes and if it goes awry, put it back where you started. For a guy with little experience, it's best to keep the bike running so you don't lose track of what you did. On a lot of older bikes, people make the adjustments needed just to keep it running. I like to get the carbs synced to bring out the issues that need to be addressed, like maybe the shaft seals or needle jets. Once the carbs are solid, it'll be much easier to get them dialed in. Rejetting a bike with worn shaft seals will be hours of frustration.... Don't be afraid, I don't know the science behind carbs, but rebuilding and adjusting isn't anywhere near as hard as it sounds... Also make sure the intakes are solid and not sucking air.
ApriliaBill
Yeah...I'm old school.
kopcicle said:
These sites are to help people. If you're not here to help.... Move on....
Bert Jan
Holy Modification Batman
It's like asking a bookie wich horse to bet on. He won't tell - even if he does know the answer.
General rule of thumb is 10/15% up @ main jet. If you run 100's now, you should try 110/115.
Don't take my word for it, my ported 550 with 650 cam runs awesome with stock carbs, short muffler and cheap pods.
General rule of thumb is 10/15% up @ main jet. If you run 100's now, you should try 110/115.
Don't take my word for it, my ported 550 with 650 cam runs awesome with stock carbs, short muffler and cheap pods.
kopcicle
antidisestablishmentarian
emgo , no-name , see through , able to keep small boulders , shrubs and children out of your carbs
vs
K&N if you just have to have the "look" and Uni (flammable) foam filters .
[opinion] largest available filter for the inlet diameter . Well designed inlet from th filter to the carb throat .
Sufficient filtering capability to keep debris out . Durability , longevity , ease of maintenance , wet weather performance . Emgo meets none of these requirements [/opinion]
~kop
vs
K&N if you just have to have the "look" and Uni (flammable) foam filters .
[opinion] largest available filter for the inlet diameter . Well designed inlet from th filter to the carb throat .
Sufficient filtering capability to keep debris out . Durability , longevity , ease of maintenance , wet weather performance . Emgo meets none of these requirements [/opinion]
~kop
ApriliaBill
Yeah...I'm old school.
kopcicle said:
mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
kopcicle said:
FWIW, the emgo pods burn pretty well too. Took me a week to get the fire extinguisher powder out of all the crevices. the Emgo's don't melt though.
I have Uni's on now, but as soon as I get a mounting tab repaired, I am going back to the stock airbox, with some UNI foam replacing the old paper element.
