I would personally run AT LEAST 25 p.s.i.irk miller said:Speaking of fork legs, I dropped the pressure to 15psi.
But that's just me
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I would personally run AT LEAST 25 p.s.i.irk miller said:Speaking of fork legs, I dropped the pressure to 15psi.
Yes, I already know. And I'm not yet finished. As I stated "I’m working on building up the patina." I've been doing this kind of stuff for 25 years. Thanks for the rant, anyway.trek97 said:What the hell is that? Is it rust? Im sure you've already done all your homework on this "browning" process. FWIW...
If it is REAL rust. It will be very fragile at first. If it turns a copper color you will need to add more humidity.
The "copper" colored coating will prevent the acid from doing its "rusting" job. And will have to be sanded back to bright and re-done.
You can buff the new rust using soft old denim. BTW - buffing rust is called "carding". Or even steel wool.
Carding, between acid coats, will give the rust a mice smooth, darker, semi-gloss type finish. (probably what you want) If you dont buff it will get rougher as you build it up.
Carding all that by hand will be a big job. Maybe wrap a drill buffing wheel w denim. working at a slower speed.
But you will need to remove a lot of stuff from the frame to get it all nice and even.
You can stop the browning process w water and baking soda mix once you reach your desired goal.
Which you're probably there now.
irk miller said:Yes, I already know. And I'm not yet finished. As I stated "I’m working on building up the patina." I've been doing this kind of stuff for 25 years. Thanks for the rant, anyway.
It's pretty clearly a rant. It's always a rant. I'll be happy to mail you a copy of my resume, if it helps. My portfolio is available online. There are many ways to do this this and several processes. The front half of the frame is already rusted naturally, so (as I stated before) I'm just making the back section match. I don't want it "even".trek97 said:haha no rant. simply info.
I was just surprised to see it. thats all.
I totally agree. Same as I much prefer wood stocks ( I assume you do, too) to the plastics they're using nowadays.trek97 said:I prefer the browning of rifle barrels as opposed to more modern blueing. An art thats fading fast.
irk miller said:I totally agree. Same as I much prefer wood stocks ( I assume you do, too) to the plastics they're using nowadays.
On similar note, I'm also trying to patina the seat. Partly because I dripped brake fluid on it (yes, I'm an idiot), and partly because the color tone was too consistent and light and didn't seem to match the ride.
Bleach or acetone will remove the dye in leather. You then can add color back in with wood stains, or shoe polish. I cut the shoe polish/stains with saddle soap or leather conditioner and rub it in. Coffee grounds make a great dye for leather and if you want more of an oxblood tone then boil red onions or beets. If you can soak the leather, then rusting some steel wool in a solution of vinegar (search: vinegaroon dye) to make a great black dye. By trying, it's not a question of knowing. It's a process of effort.trek97 said:I don’t care for the color of the oiled hide I bought. Used it on the stool I made. Let me do some experiments on it. I got stripper and also gonna try some alcohol.
To strip current tan finish off and re-dye dark brown. I’ll send pics tonight.
I would be terribly disappointed if you didn't.canyoncarver said:I might have peed on it. Maybe.