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So recently made a new harness for my 76 cj360 very minimum and I also have new Oregon reg/rec combo and am running a 12 7.5amp/hr battery I have a 35w hid and LEDS in tail and cluster lights I'm curious if my system will work and is dependable for long rides. I've ready riding time will be limited asking for first had experience not I thinks or I read. Thanks again to all
Ton down
i figured it would be ok but just got the bike finally running after PJ built my carbs and now my charging problems are back. this is whats going on now
i recently just purchased a reg/rec combo from you for my 76 honda cj360. i got the VRRPM2-HCB from oregon motorcycle parts i wired it in per instructions this is how i have it wired.
yellow and white jumped together going into 1 yellow on reg/rec
pink going to other yellow.
red going to battery
green going to ground.
the issue im having is the bike isnt charging. with the reg/rec unplugged completely when i test A/C V. from my pink to yellow/white i am getting about 30VAC at idle and around 50VAC at 5000RPM and as i understand that is normal when i plug everything back together except the red (output voltage) and i run bike i seem to only be getting no more than 2V DC out of reg/rec. im 99.9% positive my wiring is good on the bike because i just re-did the whole harness and i made it a very simple harness. any and all help would be great.
sry not trying to bug but i am suppose to be going on a ride in less than a week and am determined to get this figured out. to me it seems the new reg/rec combo isnt producing the output voltage correctly but its brand new and have checked all my wiring . 100 times and it seems to be perfect. ahhhhhhh please help this is driving me crazy.
Josh, before you drive yourself insane like an old B/W movie, connect the wiring and check battery voltage :
- Bike ON, but not running
- At idle
- at say 3000 revs
- and say 5000
You would expect to see say 12.5 on but not running, maybe 13.2 at idle, 14 at 3k and the same or say 14.2 at 5k Something like that. If that's what you see, you're fine.
well i made some progress from my last post about my reg/rec not putting out proper voltage. well i got another reg/rec from oregon cycles and i wired everything up and got it running. everything was charging normal then when i reved it up to about 5k the bike would just shut off. so i hooked up a harley battery i had laying around and it reved up fine didnt cut out at all. so i got the battery warrantied at my local battiers plus store where i bought it. while getting new battery i was talking to guy and i found out i over charged it and fried the battery. i then hooked in new battery and got the bike running double checked all my wiring and everything was charging and reving up normal. about 13V at idle and around 5k rpm i was getting about 14.5V. so i went off for a ride i was ripping on the bike pretty hard everything was fine and i got about 3 miles then the bike died while accelerating hard. i pulled over kicked it over and it started up normal so i took off and right about when i would hit 5k rpm the bike would die and cut out so i took it easy back home then by the time i got home it wouldnt even idle or rev up without dying. i then checked my battery it was completely dead. hooked up harley battery and checked my charging it was only charging about 8V i then unhooked reg/ rec and checkedmy charging input and it was getting around 30VAC and climbed while reving. so i know my battery is fried and so is my second brand new reg/rec from oregon cycles. i dont know what to even look into. if this is forst time reading my post. i will sum it up.
completely re-wired entire bike double and triple checked it all
have brand new reg/rec combo from oregon cycles.
has brand new battery 12V 8.0Amp hour battery.
only running guage light tail and headlamp (which wasnt even on at time)
my only guess to whats going on is that the battery cant handle charge and is shorting out and taking out reg/rec? is this possible? could it be my stator? like i said before it was running fine and after about 10 min of riding it started to die out.
I'm no electrical expert, but it sounds like the alternator rotor and stator are fine and doing what they are supposed to do. IIRC, your system is a permanent magnet, so the regulator is most likely dumping excess electrical power as heat.
That suggests either it's overheating and not getting enough airflow or perhaps needs to be mounted on a larger slab of metal.
It's also possible that the batteries are failing and causing the r/r to fail. Is the battery mounted on a foam or rubber base or is it touching solid metal somewhere? Vibration can cause battery failure.
I'd be tempted to hook up that HD battery and strap it on somewhere and add a voltage meter and take the bike out for a ride to see what happens to the voltage as you ride it - just don't stare at the meter and miss a corner in the road.
i will try to attach pics later but i made battery tray that sits under seat and it is rubber mounted like the stock tray which holds battery. and the reg/rec is mounted under that which is in wide open and can get plenty of airflow. i need to get new reg/rec and try another type of battery but i wanna make sure whats the cause sense im frying 100$ reg/rec i will be on #2 now, dont want to push it to 4 ya know.
Try a volt meter across the battery and run it around the block and see what it gets to and then repeat with the HD battery duct taped somewhere safe and see if it's any different. Don't run it for miles if the voltage rises too far.
Alright I will try that but as of now the bike dosnt run the reg isn't charging no more then 8V's so I will need to get a new one first. Then hook up Harley battery. It seems that once I'm really riding it hard and hitting high rpm I'm having issues frying batteries and reg/rec.
There is something wrong with your wiring, either you have a bad or missing ground or something is connected 'backwards'
Draw out diagram of what you've done.
It should be real simple, 3 output wires from alternator to 3 inputs on rectifier, output from reg/rect to battery, input to reg from switched live when ignition is on for control voltage, ground lead.
Fit an extra ground lead from engine to frame and one from frame to forks/headlight, make sure there isn't any paint under grounds
The light green/red is for neutral switch, make sure you don't have it connected to anything else as it's a grounding switch
There isn't a control voltage wire in sketch, you need something to 'tell' regulator what batter voltage is at.
Pretty sure it has to be a separate wire into reg/rect
I just checked and ripped while harness apart and I checked everything there is no shorts or anything anything bad in harness as far as a voltage signal I have no idea the Oregon motorcycle parts reg/rec combo has 4 wires
1 green-ground
2 yellow-charge wire to stator pink
3 yellow-charge wire to stator white
/yellow wire
4 red-output to battery.
That's how they said to wire it. It only makes sense this way but I could be wrong
That sounds like just a rectifier, in fact, it is.
360 has separate units, if you got 360 replacement, you don't have a regulator at present
Fit the stock CB360 regulator, make sure the CASE IS NOT GROUNDED and use only the black volt wire and a good ground for green wire
Run black after ignition switch,it must not be permanent live
i dont have the factory regulator and rectifier. i have an after market unit that is a combo unit for both i pick it up from oregonmotorcyclepart.com but on another note my charge wire from my reg/rec should be on the switch side of circuit not the battery side? whats the meaning for it this way? just curious
Wiring is different to stock, but makes sense. Stock has black (switched 12V from main switch) to Regulator and Red/White from rectifier to battery. Single combine R&R unit does sway with the black lead and uses and internal connection between rectifier and regulator.
At 90 bucks a pop, you certainly don't want to kill any more. That's why I suggested you try with a larger capacity battery and check the voltage right out of the gate and don't wait until it fries. You may be able to just rev it in the shop with a volt meter across the battery. If voltage goes much above 14.5 volts, the regulator isn't doing its job.
if that test (with new R&R) shows OK with a big battery, repeat with a smaller one. If that spikes at higher voltage it says that the battery is too small. I know that logic seems to suggest that it should be the same with both, but try it to see what happens - don't keep the motor running at high voltage levels.
If it's too high on both tests, I'd think it was a bad ground on the R/R maybe exacerbated by poor ground on lights or the main motor ground which also is essential. Try a lead from a clean part of the frame to a clean part of the motor and see if that fixes things.
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