Cj360 charging issue

[Jturs]

Finally got my cj running an road it about 20 miles today and noticed when I got home lights were flickering and wouldn't idle. Obviously battery is dead wondering what kind of test I can do to check charging system

 

[eram]

This was a good resource I used to diagnose the R/R on one of my newer bikes:

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

Just realize that it's talking about an R/R and not separate regulator and rectifier units as the CJ360 has (so put the probes in the appropriate spot)

 

[Jturs]

Anyone else?

 

[crazypj]

Check the wires going to rectifier, they can break off, particularly red/white.
Stator is rarely a problem although the wires coming through case can get damaged.
How old is the battery?

 

[Jturs]

Battery is brand new I got a sealed slim battery from a battery store its 12v 7.5 amp hours ( kick start only) and I'm only running a 35w bulb which wasn't even on while I was riding only other lights that were on are gauge lights and tail lamp

 

[crazypj]

Check ground leads, particularly the one on coil mount to main wiring harness.
run extra ground direct from battery to frame and engine.
how have you mounted regulator?
I've heard it has to be isolated from frame, if body grounds it doesn't work
I mounted mine on a piece of plastic and was getting consistent 17volts (battery was pretty low when I started ;D )
I switched to a new style combined solid state reg/rect when I rewired though and now get 14.25v.

 

[Jturs]

well i am going to start tearing into the bike today and figure out whats going on. i was doing some thinking and i forgot to mention that i did remove all oem handle bar switches and was wondering if i broke a circuit by doing so. i jumped my kill switch circuit so i dont have one and wired my headlamp to a on/off switch\. so this is what i was thinking if you look at wiring diagram for this bike it appears the alternator circuit runs through the headlamp switch im just not sure if i need to jump those 2 wires together or if they are grounded or what. the diagram dosnt really show what goin on in the switch. gotta love these old wiring schematics ahaha anyone have any experience with this would be awesome thanks guys! oh and i will try to post schematic


the wires im talking about are the yellow and the black outlined white wire off alternator

 

[crazypj]

Yep, that's the problem.
One alternator output is only switched into circuit when the lights are turned on with stock switch
Took my painkillers/meds about 40 mins ago, will be a couple of hours before I can think straight (sucks but at least I have 8 hrs of being OK before next dose )

 

[Jturs]

So do I need to jump those 2 wires together then?

 

[Jturs]

anyone have any experience removing that switch and what wires to hook back together?

 

[crazypj]

I completely re-wired when I changed switches so can't help.
You should be able to just connect yellow and white wires together

 

[Jturs]

i pulled headlamp apart and those 2 wires are already jumped together. i read volts across battery and im only getting about 5v at idle at 7 at 2500rpm i checked AC voltage off my alternator and its only reading about 9VAC at idle from what i have been reading it should be around 30VAC at idle. this mean my alternator is bad

 

[crazypj]

Did you do AC loaded or unloaded?
Loaded means you had the block connector running into main harness. 5~7 v is about normal if battery is charging and regulator is working
Unloaded test, you disconnect the block connector and check pairs of wires (W-P, W-Y, P-Y)
You will have 2 high readings and one lower (because there are less windings on Y

 

[Jturs]

my reading was with it connected so i guess that is normal. if i unplug it i dont think bike will run seeing battery is just about dead. how do i go about checking regulator and rectifier?

 

[Jturs]

newest update i unplugged rectifier and checked it per what i found on google not sure what reading should be but this is what i had.
G to P 16ish ohm
P to G open
G to Y 16ish ohms
Y to G open
Y to R/W 16ish ohms
R/W to Y open
P to R/W 16ish ohms
R/W to P open


well i just re checked with my meter on auto range and say .5 between diodes and nothing when reversed

 

[crazypj]

maybe OK
You check with + lead on one set of tests and - on second set
red lead on meter (+) to R/W, check all the other leads on rectifier with black meter lead (-)
The reverse, (-) to R/W, etc
You need fully charged battery to do no load test

 

[Jturs]

Black lead on G wire and red lead to all others i have nothing(open)
let me rewrite this
red on G, black on P .5 phmsblack on P to red on G open
red on G to black on Y .5 ohms
black on Y to red on G open
red on Y to black on R/W .5 ohms
black on R/W to red on Y open
red on P to black on R/W .5 ohms

black on R/W to red on P open

now red on G and black on R/W i have 4.6 ohms and nothing reveresed


with red lead on R/W wire and black on all others i have no continunity

 

[Jturs]

also do i need to do a unloaded test? whats proper way to test voltage regulator

 

[crazypj]

Rectifier sounds OK
You need the unloaded test to check stator is making required voltage (particularly when hot)
Checking regulator is difficult without some special equipment, usually you substitute a known good one

 

[Jturs]

Are alternators known for going out, guess I will swap voltage regulator