CJ360 intermittent stalling

adventurco said:
Normal for there to be a bit of copper exposed at the end right before the connection, thats why you have to be careful they don't ground out.

Yeah. its supposed to have a gasket. Put some grease or oil on the surface of the cover and press it onto a sheet of gasket material or a manilla folder and cut one out.

Bike didn't have one when I got it, I'll see if I still have anything left from my gasket kit. That's a good tip though, oil and pressing.


Thanks,~T


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Keeping it over 3K will keep battery charging.
Have you fitted higher wattage headlight or any extra stuff that can load electrical system?
Have you checked charge rate?
If it runs fine for 15 mins, it isn't usually the points wire (but an extra thick gasket is a real good idea)
 
Hey guys,
It bugs me when someone gets advice and doesn't report back. So a quick update. Haven't had time to test ride the bike but have done cam chain tensioner, valves, dynamic timing and carb sync. Just waiting on some free time to ride.

Reason for my lack of free time ? Put my Bmw r100 down last weekend and busy getting it back in fighting shape.

Thanks,
~T
 
Double checking everything. Having a hell of a time finding the sweet spot for the cam chain adjustment. At tdc plus 90 degrees I have all the valves closed but the right cylinder intake, and if I keep going, by the time it closes another valve opens.
Arg,
~T


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As long as the front run of chain is tight the tensioner should take up the slack on the back run.
Problem is, often the tensioner hasn't been adjusted for so long it can damage the pivot inside crankcase.
You cvould also have a broken tensioner so it isn't possible to adjust.
There isn't an easy way to check without removing rocker cover although that is a simple job on 360 but you will need Hondabond or similar to re-assemble it. (don't use silicon gasket, it tends to break off and block oil pick up
 
I just rotate crank until motor tries to turn backwards from valve spring pressure. -
You then know front run of chain is tight. Block wrench against footrest and adjust chain.
trying to get it adjusted in a specific position is too time consuming and an exercise in frustration
 
So...
Think I know the answer to this question *gulp* Do I back the cam chain tensioner off, then tighten it until it spins freely ?

~T
 
The cam chain tensioner adjuster is spring loaded. The bolt is just a stop that keeps the plunger from moving once you have it in adjustment. The process is to get the engine in the correct position, loosen the stop bolt at which point the spring loaded plunger will be released, allowing the tensioner to take up the slack in the cam chain. Then tightening the bolt back up assures that there will be no movement.
 
Adventurco, the tensioner adjust bolt threads in so far and then just spins. Is it stripped ? I did this on a cb400f last week and there was quite a bite in the threads.


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360 tensioner is very similar to 400f.
If bolt spins it cant lock onto the flat on the push bar so tensioner will flap around.
It's rare for 360 to be stripped but quite common on 400f
This is waht hapens on 360 when tensioner doesn't work and chain decides to 'eat' it
Camchaintensioner3.jpg


Camchaintensioner1.jpg


Camchaintensioner5.jpg


The spring loaded plunger pushes on the flat section just below pivot
 
Ok, sounds like I have a problem them. This thing is going down so far then spins. can't tell from any parts diagram where there the front more slender part of the adj bolt threads into, guess the case itself ? Could I jb weld the locking nut to the case and thread into that until winter I wonder ?

This was a little easier on the cb400f, just loosen and retighten while the bike is running. I did manage to hit my thumb on the muffler and teach my 4 year old a few new words...

Thanks a lot guys,
~T


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