CL350 carb jets and more

fluke12

fluke12

Been Around the Block
Part 1, 1972 cl350 with new pods. When I run it with the choke on, I get fairly good response but is a little sluggish between 3 and 5 and won't go past 5500 rpms. running it open, once I cross 3000 rpms it takes off to 5 and stays there until I choke it out. I've read other people having this problem with leaky gaskets but mine seem to be fine. Does this sound like a jetting/carb cleaning issue?

Part 2, I noticed white smoke coming out of my breather tube. I don't know if it's a lot or not. I've read a few things about this, wasn't sure if any of its related. Also haven't changed the oil in a while, mainly because I haven't been running the bike.

Any thoughts?
Thanks for the help
 
I am having similar problems. First time to the forum and have a 72 CL350.

I put cone filters on and my bike won't go over 40mph. Rolling on over 5,000 rpms and the engine grumbles; no more power.

Any help out there?
IMG_0425
 
What brand of pods are you using?

Have you synchronized your carbs?

Was everything working before you did something?
 
Rich,

Cheap pods. Not really sure of the brand. But I got KEYSTER CARB KIT's on their way right now. They're the big set with what seems to be just about everything you could possibly change.

I also got some 115 jets. Someone told me that i didn't need to go up in size in the other other jets? i don't know if i buy that, but we'll see. Anyone have any ideas on that?

I THINK the white smoke may be coming from me grabbing the wrong gas can, the one that had some seafoam already mixed in. That's what i get for not labeling my gas cans.
 
Those Emgo pods are going to block some of the air jets in the inlets of your carbs and it will never run correctly.
Get some K&N's

Trust me, been there done that.
 
SONICJK said:
Those Emgo pods are going to block some of the air jets in the inlets of your carbs and it will never run correctly.
Get some K&N's

Trust me, been there done that.
Click to expand...

Yep, there's a flange on the inside of those pods that blocks the main air inlet on your carb body. Bam.
 
So, then can i run the previous jets in there if i get rid of that flange? I saw somewhere on here, someone cut it off? or am i still needing to rejet? And... is that whole only changing the one set of jets weird or normal?
 
Your engine will always be choked for power if you run it with CV carbs and EMGO pods. The K&N pods SONIC recommended above have an internal velocity stack to smooth airflow on its way in to your carburetor.

As for the jetting, the only way to find out what you need is to run it and start doing plug chops.
 
I just ordered some of the uni filters. Specifically the NU-4001 (the longer ones) After a lot of research these appear to have more surface area and create a close to stock airflow; normally not requiring re-jetting. I plan to do like some other guys have done and hide them behind the side covers. Obviously not as appealing as the K&N cosmetically, but I'm going for reliability. They go for around $35 shipped.
 
There is a link http://www.ebay.com/itm/321000069424?item=321000069424&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr Supposedly you can use the plastic pipes that come with it to hold our brass rod that goes through the side cover too.
 
Thanks for the link. I actually still have the air boxes but no side covers. My goal is to get pods working and sorta hanging out there for the world to see them so I'm gonna see what this rebuild kit does, then figure out if I gotta drop the cash for some quality. I'll post again once it's all back together and let you guys know the deal.
 
So carbs rebuilt with virtually all new pieces. I kept the old float needle in because I'm pretty sure the float height is right and I didn't want to mess with it. The new needle seemed to be shorter. Also put #115 jets in which really cleared up some acceleration issues but it still wants to idle above 3000 once it's warmed up. I can't find an air leak but I think I have it narrowed down to one side running lean while the other side is running fine.
Any suggestions on that? Everyone else seems to have a sticky throttle on that. Mine is running free and smooth.
 
Once your bike is warmed up, are both idle screws touching the carb? If you adjust the idle back down equally on both carbs, does it not run when cold with choke on the next time you start it?

Seems like you are making progress! Always good. I've heard of using a propane torch (obviously just running gas not lit) to detect leaks too. Sometimes other chemicals won't change the idle when searching. It doesn't sound like an air leak though. Sounds more like the idle is set wrong. Also make sure your choke is opening and closing properly.
 
Yeah i was using starter fluid spray. I figured if anything was going to change the RPMS, starter fluid should do it.

As far as the idle screws, they both seem to be touching the carbs but I can double check when I get home.

It starts with the choke on pretty easily and really only climbs like that once its warm, so maybe after a mile or so.

Maybe I just crank up the idle screw on that side and see what happens? Any other suggestions?
 
Just for the record, CL350 CV carbs do not respond well to pods of any sort and cheap ones are typically a huge step backwards. Keyster jets are also not up to spec and may well be worse that the original worn parts.
 
Ahh Jeez Teazer. That coulda saved me like 100 bucks. I noticed some of the holes were quite a bit smaller in the other tubes, but the main ones were same diameter. Really, it's been the closet to running right since i took off the air boxes. the 115 jets i put in were from a local store, and seem to be working well. I'm probably gonna bite the bullet and pick up some k&n's sometime soon and test them out. I was just hoping to get both cylinders idling somewhat close to right before that.

I'm still holding onto hope that i'm missing something painfully obvious.

thanks guys
 
So I finally got around to trying some things, I got the bike warm and idling at a consistent rate but it was still sticking when revved past 5k. I decided to pull the plugs and check again and clean them off and swap sides, once I got them back in, it wouldn't catch so I swapped them back. Once I did that, it backfired off the same cylinder that was running lean before.

So, new plugs needed right? That still doesn't explain the high rpms though, seems like if anything, that sides plug chop should have read rich right?
 
It's been a while since I posted on this thread. Spark plug issue resolved but still running lean on one cylinder and perfect on the other. I even changed the intake and gasket to a new one just to be sure. When I hold my hand behind the pipes, it feels like the lean cylinder is hitting harder than the correct one. Also, adjusting the lean carb's air/fuel screw seems to do nothing when adjusting the correct carbs screw dramatically affects it.

Any ideas?
 
That suggests a blockage in the idle circuit on the left pipe. What I do with carbs is to strip and clean them and then I take a spray can of carb/break cleaner and spray it through one hole in one carb and repeat on the other carb for comparison. Then repeat on one hole after the other. That way you can see if one is very different to the other.
 
Teazer, let me see if I follow, you're saying that the lean carb has a blockage in the idle circuit or the carb that seems fine?

Then, do you spray one, run the bike spray the other carb then run the bike again? Or do you spray both carbs at the same time?

Any more details or photos if you got em would be awesome

Thanks
 
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