CL360 Cafe Carb Stumble

Still got the pods, I know that they cause the mid range stumble it is just much worse when the bike is cold then warm, just wanting to make sure that that is normal and not signs of something worse.
 
Usually it's the opposite. Mid range issues would get worse when warm because of things being overly rich. Might want to double-check the valve adjustment. If the tappets are too tight, they'll hold the valves open just a bit after warming up. That drop your compression numbers and make the bike feel sluggish.
 
Ok, I know the valves are good, if anything they are a little loose. Usually when I first start the bike it is 7:30am and with no mufflers I try not to rev it to much when I am riding through my neighborhood. When it is warm after work I am on main roads and usually keep it above 5000 rpm. Might just be the way I ride in the morning vs the late afternoon. I will look at the valves again just to make sure.
 
Yeah the pipes I can't do anything about. Just found out yesterday that the school I work for is closing in June so any money for the bike is now locked up in savings. The stock air boxes I am going to try to put on, but I don't have an air compressor to blow out the dirt in the stock filters so is there any other way to clean them? I have 110 secondaries. I know I need bigger ones for the top end but I rarely get above 7000 rpm anyways and I don't want to be fouling plugs since I do spend most of my time in the 4000-7000rpm range. And since when the bike is warm is runs pretty good, I haven't been to worried about it. When I get the money the carbs are going to CrazyPJ for his black magic tricks.
 
The secondary mains don't work quite that way in these carbs; they will affect most of the range.

You'll probably want 118s or 120s without the airbox and mufflers.
 
Ok I will get those sizes and give it a try. My local Honda dealer actually has jets for my bike so it works out.
 
Ok so new problem. I have noticed that when I park the bike (I always park it on the center stand) it leaks a few drops of oil from the back of the engine. Since it was only 1 or 2 drops I didn't work to much and it only leaks after the bike has ran. If it sits over night no new drops appear other then the first 1-2 that showed up. Now that has increased to 5-6 drops. When I got the bike it was over full of oil, so I drained it and put in about 1.5 quarts so the oil level is right between the two lines on the dip stick.

Since it is coming out of the cover of the front sprocket (from what I can tell) I am not sure if it is just chain lube flying off and collecting or if it is oil leaking out from somewhere else and traveling to that location where it can get out. I checked all the screws and everything is tight. And the oil that is coming out of the cover is darker then the oil in the engine case so I am at a lose. Any help would be great.
 

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I am running Yamalube 10w40 since it was the least expensive at my local shop. According to the website Yamalube is a:
Performance blended engine oil using high quality mineral base stocks
• Provides stable clutch performance and film strength to protect from the wear and tear
 
Well shit, I was looking at the bike today during a break at work and saw that the oil wasn't just seeping from the sprocket cover but from the entire seam all the way up to the starter on the left crank case cover. I wiped the oil off with a red napkin (because that is what I had) and noticed little shiny pieces of metal in the oil I was wiping off. Now, the engine runs great (other then the before mentioned jetting problems) but the electric starter does not turn the engine over anymore (it used to when I first got the bike but not real well), it just makes a horrible grinding sound. Now where the electric starter goes into the left crank case cover that seam (if that makes any sense) is the one that is leaking. I am thinking maybe my electric start has bound up or got installed wrong by the guy who owned it before me and now the gears a grinding together. I am going to get some gaskets and pull the left crank case cover and the left crank case rear cover and remove the electric start and see if that helps, any suggestions? Thanks.
 
Yeah that is what I figured I would have to do. I was just seeing if anybody had any specific things to look for, like messed up starter gears, or clutch plates that are destroyed. I will do it this weekend and post some pics. I guess this should probably be moved to some sort of quasi build thread now. :)
 
Just keep it here for now. I dont want to have to go hunt you. Ive got this bookmarked already.
 
Alright so I tore the two side covers off. Under the sprocket cover I found all kinds of dirt and crap under it. I will post pics tomorrow. So I cleaned it up real good. The problem is something that looks like a super thick washer femout when I pulled the cover off and the factory manual I have doesn't really show where it goes. Under the crank case cover it was clean and I could the the starter chain by hand in a clockwise direction no problem but not the other way. The function of a one way bearing I suppose. I did notice that the rubber grommet that the wires run through from the stator out of the crank case is missing a tab so it isn't sealing very tight. Also the previous owner disk t clean off the old gasket material very well when he installed the new gasket or at least that is what it looks like. So I am going to clean it off real well and them reinstall a new gasket and maybe squirt some liquid gasket around the wire grommet to help seal it off. That is my best guess for now. And Trek97 thanks for the posts I got the factory manual from your site when I first got the bike and for now I am going to leave the starter alone but eventually I want to take it off. Thanks.
 
If it has three bumps in it, it's part of the clutch actuator. Don't lose that part or the ball bearing that fits inside it.
 
Sorry I should have said spacer. I almost lost the plate with three bumps but found it and reinstalled it. The inner diameter of the spacer is just big enough to fit over the shaft that goes to the clutch so I just out it on there for now. I didn't tighten anything since I am still waiting on the gaskets so I can just move it if it is in the wrong place.
 
There shouldn't be a spacer there. Possible the previous owner was trying to keep oil leaking from that seal?

Unless you're talking about #11 in this pic?
honda-cj360t-1977-usa-left-crankcase-cover_bighu0045e8010_a7db.gif
 
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