CL360 Mystery Forks??

Oskimo

Active Member
Hey guys,

So i've finally began restoring these old rusty forks for my CL360 build, and the internals of the fork seem to differ from whats provided in my Clymer manual. It seems there is some kind of rebound rod within the spring that threads into the top bolt along with a lock washer. From my manual and what i've read online, I was under the impression that the spring would simply lift out once i removed the top bolt from the stanchion tube. Externally, they are exactly the same as my manual. Any of you guys know what model these might have come off of? Am I insane?

The only reason i ask is because I don't want to end up putting the wrong amount of fluid in (140cc)

Thanks
 

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Not sure exactly what those forks are from, but I can tell you that they're beyond repair. They're damaged in the travel area.
 
The travel area is underneath the masking tape and in surprisingly good condition. Sanded down a few small pits with balled up aluminium foil and some polishing compound till they were smooth to the touch. I was just gonna paint over the tops of the tube that were exposed and rusted, slap some gaiters on there, replace the seals and call it good. I'd hate to replace if I can get by with these. i dunno, perhaps new forks are in order?
 
there are at least 2 fork types for the CB/CL 350's, a Piston valve type and a Free valve type. The Piston type has 2 springs in it, so this is definitely not that one. However, he free valve type has a small rebound spring too, and I don't see that either. Also, the early models had external springs on the front too.

I looked at a CL350 K4 Microfiche, and it shows your fork, so that makes at least 3 different style forks...
 

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That's my fork, alright!. Thanks, mydlyfkryzis

So, it seems some genius from the past slapped on some CL350 forks at one point in time. I kinda dig this design anyway. Keeps the spring from propelling the top bolt at my face.

Turns out it takes 125-150cc dry assembly, so i'd have be fine with 140. I dunno if its up here already but I'll post the info.
 

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If you think Clymer screwed up the fork section...wait til you look into the carb section. Clymer manuals are a waste of resources.
 
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