Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
splitting the cases is not that big of a deal. Shit in the engine is a big deal and there is no effective way to just flush it out. Check your connecting rod bearings, too. They could be trashed.
Too bad you tore it down to change the cylinder. It was really doing OK, but did you listen to me? Nooooo!
Thanks for the heads up on the connecting rods and bearings. Looks like I'm going in... First time. I hope she's gentle.
I hope I am not becoming the guy everyone complains about for not listening to advice. I did what I thought was right after looking at the oil spitting out the exhaust only on one side and seeing a cloud of smoke only emitting from one side. If I am that guy please forgive because I need the help to win the war over this engine.
Also check the inside of the engine where the cam chain travels. Make sure it hasn't eaten away at the aluminum and made the walls too thin. you can check the metal particles with a magnet. if they are steel they will be picked up, not if aluminum.
All good advice. I am a little concerned because it seems like more metal than what would have come from just the tensioner. I will crack it open today. Out of town for the weekend but I want to order any parts to get it back before barbers if possible.
Can't get oil filter out! I obviously removed the ring that holds it in. I have used a 6mm screw and am pulling but it is stuck. Thinking about buying a slide hammer today but money is tight and I don't want to break anything with a hammer. Any suggestions?
Got the case open and started the detective work. The catch that holds the front tensioner had been warped xfrom chain rub.
Its hard to see but I promise its there. It wouldn't allow the tensioner to fit in the little pocket which caused it to slide forward and down somehow. The "t" arms at the top of the tensioner were broken. The "u" section that cups under the cam chain had been making contact with the chain and that is where the majority of metal came from.
All metal shards removed from all parts. New tensioner set up and a new cam chain. The only place I cannot get into is the oil filter. Stuck
Does that channel changer start your compressor or do you really have a tv in your shop? I should put a TV in my shop, good god man, youre a genius. Nice build by the way.
Does that channel changer start your compressor or do you really have a tv in your shop? I should put a TV in my shop, good god man, youre a genius. Nice build by the way.
I currently have the brackets that come on it tucked under the tank and have the back zip tied down. I drill two holes in the fiberglass to allow a zip tie to loop into seat and around the bar. I will come up with something better but wanted to get it rideable by barbers vintage festival.
I've put about 100 miles on them and have enjoyed them. You don't feel the bumps at all. If you are going to do some serious cornering then I would not recommend. My wife rides behind and says they throw rocks. I know some would mock me but I like the way they look. I have other bikes for performance. If i had a better filtering set up and fenders I would love to tear up a dirt track with them.
Finally got an afternoon to dial the carbs in. Vroom vroom. Went with a 45 pilot jet. And one under stock for main jet. Can't remember number... Bike runs great, now it's ready for a smaller sprocket. Anybody recommend a front sprocket size. I am currently 34 tooth in back.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.