Cleaning up head surface

SierraCB

SierraCB

New Member
So I'm doing the head gaskets on my cx500 and I want to clean up all the carbon etc that's left on the head and cylinder.

What's the best way to go about this? I was thinking a brass wire wheel on a drill or something. any good solvents? Just don't want to mess up the aluminum.

Also what's the best product to apply the gasket with?

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Apply the gasket?

First you need to get that old gasket off of there.
Very careful work with a razor blade is usually the ticket.
Then use some brake cleaner or similar and get it very very clean.
Then you'll just lay the new gasket on and bolt it back together.


And to clean the head and valves etc, a brass wire wheel is fine, brake cleaner is a good solvent here as well.
Just dont use the wire wheel on any gasket sealing surfaces and you'll be fine.
 
SONIC. said:
Apply the gasket?

First you need to get that old gasket off of there.
Very careful work with a razor blade is usually the ticket.
Then use some brake cleaner or similar and get it very very clean.
Then you'll just lay the new gasket on and bolt it back together.


And to clean the head and valves etc, a brass wire wheel is fine, brake cleaner is a good solvent here as well.
Just dont use the wire wheel on any gasket sealing surfaces and you'll be fine.
Click to expand...

Sweet, works for me. Wait I don't just put the new gasket on without taking the old one off?! :p

I asked about using a applicant because I've been told to use a gasket sealer when applying head gaskets. Something like permatex copper.
 
Thats debatable, you will get a different opinion from everyone on whether to use a sealer or not.
Personally I do use permatex copper sealer, but its in a spray can, so no applicator needed.
In theory you don't need any sealer, there wasn't any from the factory and they usually seal up just fine without. I just like a little extra insurance and really don't have a clue if it does anything, but my last 4 engines haven't leaked.
 
It often depends on the bike. On the XS650, there are narrow sections of gasket around the cam chain channel and oil pathways. In these areas it is recommended by many to use a sealant - very thin application. On my last XS650 build I used a copper gasket and if memory serves, I had to use a complete layer of sealant on the entire gasket.

A little bit will be fine - too much is bad. You don't want any globs breaking off inside the engine which will just block oil pathways and BOOM no more engine. Use a small paint brush to apply a thin uniform layer in the areas you decide need it, or use the spray application. I use the red gasket spray on my paper gaskets - makes them easier to remove if I recall - no more bits of gasket left on the engine cases.
 
Brake cleaner will help soften the old ones up.
I have found that a green scotch brite pad used sparingly will help get the remnants of the old off without risking a gouge from a blade on the mating surface.
Don't get aggressive with it and it works great.
And fwiw, I usually go dry unless there is visible damage/corrosion to a mating surface.
 
Bozz said:
Brake cleaner will help soften the old ones up.
I have found that a green scotch brite pad used sparingly will help get the remnants of the old off without risking a gouge from a blade on the mating surface.
Don't get aggressive with it and it works great.
And fwiw, I usually go dry unless there is visible damage/corrosion to a mating surface.
Click to expand...

Perfect.

Thanks a lot guys.

As far as getting the carbon off the valves and the combustion area... What do I use for that?
 
Definitely use Permatex copper, in fact, the Honda Factory Service manual specifies to use a sealant on the head gasket. Permatex copper is in a spray can, so you can apply a nice even, not-to-thick coat on each side. Actually, I apply a second coat after the first dries.

A wallpaper scraper with a very sharp blade is very good for removing gaskets. Don't hesitate to change the blade frequently, as a nicked blade will make gouges in the aluminum.

I bead blast the carbon out of a combustion chamber, but you can just use any solvent or Simple Green and a small wire brush.
 
AlphaDogChoppers said:
Definitely use Permatex copper, in fact, the Honda Factory Service manual specifies to use a sealant on the head gasket. Permatex copper is in a spray can, so you can apply a nice even, not-to-thick coat on each side. Actually, I apply a second coat after the first dries.

A wallpaper scraper with a very sharp blade is very good for removing gaskets. Don't hesitate to change the blade frequently, as a nicked blade will make gouges in the aluminum.

I bead blast the carbon out of a combustion chamber, but you can just use any solvent or Simple Green and a small wire brush.
Click to expand...

Carbon isn't really coming off without chipping it off which is worrying me.

As for the gasket I basically got it all off but there are parts that I can't get with a razor and the stripper isn't working either. Ideas?

Also there is a ton of oil in the head bolt holes, how do I get it out before reinstalling? I know there can't be any liquid in there. Also how to flush out the water jacket? There could be debris in there
 
Clean really well with Simple Green, some tube brushes, and flush it all out with a garden hose. Take it to a local machine shop or indy shop or metal finisher, and have them bead blast your combustion chamber for you. Clean REALLY, REALLY well, several times afterward.
 
AlphaDogChoppers said:
Clean really well with Simple Green, some tube brushes, and flush it all out with a garden hose. Take it to a local machine shop or indy shop or metal finisher, and have them bead blast your combustion chamber for you. Clean REALLY, REALLY well, several times afterward.
Click to expand...

Simple green seems like it wouldn't do much good if stripper isn't getting it off...

As for the garden hose flush, I guess it make sense but wouldn't I get water all inside of the motor? Where the head bolts go there is literally oil to the top, dripping out sometimes.
 
I'm just talking about your heads.
Simple Green is to remove the oil from your heads. That keeps the glass bead from getting contaminated with oil.

You would not be bead blasting a partially assembled engine, just pieces that you would be removing. Use a little common sense, dude.
 
I don't want to hijack the thread but if there is a possibility of uneven surfaces isn't there a sanding process to go about or do you recommend taking it to a machine shop Alpha?
 
Drey6 said:
I don't want to hijack the thread but if there is a possibility of uneven surfaces isn't there a sanding process to go about or do you recommend taking it to a machine shop Alpha?
Click to expand...
What uneven surfaces?
I wouldn't sand any gasketed surfaces at home, you'll never keep it flat. And chances are you don't have anything at home that's flat enough to measure it against to check
 
AlphaDogChoppers said:
I'm just talking about your heads.
Simple Green is to remove the oil from your heads. That keeps the glass bead from getting contaminated with oil.

You would not be bead blasting a partially assembled engine, just pieces that you would be removing. Use a little common sense, dude.
Click to expand...

I think I might need to step back on what i'm asking now.

1. The head and motor surface are now basically clean, but there are slight films on both that carb cleaner and paint stripper and cutting through, I've used a tooth brush, lightly with a brass brush, etc. No avail.

2. The head bolt holes, seen in the picture of the motor, the large 4 holes, are filled with oil. I know these holes need to be dry so that the bolts grab and don't loosen themselves out. How can I get these holes clean? Same goes for the water jacket. Through surface cleaning i'm sure things dropped in there, how can the jacket be cleaned?
 
large syringe or turkey baster for the holes then swab them dry,wet/dry shop vacum works as well for the coolant passages
 
SONIC. said:
What uneven surfaces?
I wouldn't sand any gasketed surfaces at home, you'll never keep it flat. And chances are you don't have anything at home that's flat enough to measure it against to check
Click to expand...

I guess like the beginning of a warp or to remove old gasket. I've heard people on hondatwins use a piece glass and 400 grit and sand in a figure 8 motion to ensure it is done evenly and free of any old gasket or gunk. Since theoretically glass is perfectly flat. The dude that mentioned it is named Longdistancerider.
 
SONIC. said:
What uneven surfaces?
I wouldn't sand any gasketed surfaces at home, you'll never keep it flat. And chances are you don't have anything at home that's flat enough to measure it against to check
Click to expand...

I resurface heads and other gasket surfaces in the shop all the time. Just glue down a sheet of sandpaper to a plate of glass or a hunk of granite or marble countertop. Lay the head on it and rotate while moving it around in little circles. You can also use a large, flat sharpening stone to touch up a head or cylinder surface. I have also done it with valve grinding compound on a sheet of glass. On heads that have a circular head gasket, like a lot of two-strokes, you can use valve grinding compound to lap the head to the cylinder.
 
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