Clutch advice.

[reelinfeele]

So, do i need a barnett clutch for a 40hp kz400? Stock will do, right? Found barnett set with plates steels and springs for 127.00
Just sounds like a lot of money.
What are you guys using?

 

[Sonreir]

You should be fine. If it slips a bit, stiffer springs will sort it out. No need for an all new clutch.

 

[frogman]

Yeah if anything I would hunt down new springs, unless your current clutch is smoked.

 

[reelinfeele]

I thinks its about to be toast. Very clunky going into first at anything over idle. I have not measured plates yet. They look ok, steels are a little discolored. Just wondering if the barnett plates are worth the extra cost. I have seen some Vesrah plates out there. I have no experience with aftermarket clutches. Havent had to replace one that wasnt on a dirt bike.

 

[crazypj]

If it's clunking into gear either it isn't adjusted right or you have the wrong oil (or both)
When clutch is 'going out' it will slip and/or grab pretty bad when pulling away from stop (also caused by rusty badly routed cables and bad adjustment)
I would see if heavy duty springs are available.
If not NEW stock springs will probably be 'stronger' than old overheated ones
Check steel plates for distortion and friction plates for thickness.

 

[reelinfeele]

Crazypj, you have experienced my clutch. I met you at stardust that morning you guys went to cocoa. I had the engine noise In the kz that kept me from going all the way. I made to alafaya and turned around. Now that i have the motor in pieces, im glad i didnt go. Rod bearing, SHOT. Crank and rod good. How much "burn" on the steels is ok? I think i should jst do frictions and springs.

 

[crazypj]

I think I said it sounded serious?
Some people will tell you any bluing of steel plates mean hey have to be replaced.
You need to check they are flat, not dished or bowed, colour doesn't really matter, first time you take off from a red light they will go back to 'steel' colour
You need a reasonably accurate flat surface to check them, probably allowed around 0.004"?
If the friction plates are still brown they should be OK, if they small burned or are black, they have been overheated and could break as they get brittle.
Without seeing them I couldn't really tell you
BTW, I managed to 'break' 360 coming back from Cocoa, left cylinder smoking real bad, couldn't find any obvious damage though
I bored cylinder 2mm over anyway to make it 378cc

 

[dgallagher]

I have a 74 cb 450 k7 what oil are you using. I put in amsoil synthetic 20w50 motorcycle oil which said it was good for wet clutch however I had problems i.e. clunking in 1st I would like to run some brand of dyno oil that works well with wet clutch. any ideas????

 

[dgallagher]

Also could anyone give me the down and dirty version on how to correctly adjust a cb 450 clutch, there are three locations, at the lever at the clutch end of the cable and at the clutch i.e. big screw. any help would be appriciated.

 

[Morgan]

I have a 74 cb 450 k7 what oil are you using. I put in amsoil synthetic 20w50 motorcycle oil which said it was good for wet clutch however I had problems i.e. clunking in 1st I would like to run some brand of dyno oil that works well with wet clutch. any ideas????

I've been running the Canadian Tire house brand of 15-40 or 20-50 Diesel grade for years in my CM450 with no issues. None of those energy star friction modifiers that kill wet clutches in it and has a few more detergents then the regular auto oil.

 

[reelinfeele]

Im using 20/50 valvoline. I never use synth or any additives. Book calls for 10/40. Think i'll just replace the plates and springs anyway while i have it apart. Stock should do. Plates are nice and flat, no grooves.
Hopefully i can get her together for the next first saturday. I finally dont have any commitments on the first saturday. Plus engine noise should/better be gone and i wont feel like i have to take it easy.
Clutch adjustment, go by the book. Start in the middle of the cable, then at motor, then lever.