cooling down a CL 360

[mysta2]

That bike is hot. Being as it's wet sump and the filter is internal is there any little tricky way to cool it down? I've started work on the fairing for SixtyNine and it looks hot (not in the way Paris Hilton say it) To compound the issue I plan on slinging the exhaust under the bike... you know, right under where all the oil spends most of its time. I forsee problems, but one way or another it'll look cool... right up until it bursts into flames, melts or explodes.

 

[DrJ]

Are you running lean? Too much air and not enough fuel in the mixture? If you are using less restrictive air filters this might cause it. If that's the case then bigger jets could help.

 

[mysta2]

Well no, that's not the issue, it's just that in the interest of streamlining I'm building a big box around an air cooled motor, and then mounting a hot box right under it. Normally this would call for some kind of trick oil cooler, but there are no oil lines to cool. There's no present problem and maybe there never will be I mean hell... the motor's MIA somewhere in Georgia right now. I'm just wondering if it will be a problem and if it is how do I solve it without just swiss cheeseing my fairing.

It'll be something like this:

Airflow restrictions abound

 

[buzz286]

Front of your fairing has to open for cooling,or just ride it 5 mins at a time ;D....nice concept picture!

 

[chrisf]

I'd cross that bridge when you get there. There are ways to install an oil cooler if push comes to shove. I'd personally ride with high quality oil like RedLine and just keep an eye on things.

I use Rotella T full synthetic in my Black car it has seen temps in the 215 range and still worked fine.

--Chris

 

[zedd]

All things are possible with enough time and money
http://www.vf750fd.com/vf750f/vintagerace.html

The log on the front of the engine below, increases the capacity and does the cooling - you need the pump end plate and cam bearings as well. Lots of other 350 trick race parts there as well.

This is a bypass cooler. Only does the oil going to the cam bearings. Oil for the top goes through a passage at the back of the barrels, through a small drill hole (so only a small amount goes up, rest goes to the gearbox), up the corner barrel bolts (2 bolts - back corners) to the cam bearings. Basically a low pressure flood into the cam journals and then back down the cam chain tunnel to th bottom.

You can do the same sort of thing by blocking off the feed to the barrel bolts, tapping into the oil galley at the back near the altenator, putting in an adjustable restrictor and external oil lines to the cam bearings. If you have a spare engine in pieces, you will be able to see where the oil goes and how to redirect it to the top. Machining an alloy log cooler (replaces the starter motor using its mounts) that could hold maybe another liter of oil is not a difficult task. I would have the entry and exit lines on top and add a drain and filler to empty / fill the cooler otherwise the topend would starve after an oil change.

Now - if you really wanted to do some trick bypass work - intercept the oil BEFORE it gets to the oil galley at the back of the barrels, put your cooler in there and the cooled exit goes to the galley (to the cams and gearbox) as normal. You would want to be sure the oil didn't drain back out of the cooler otherwise the cooler has to refill before the cams and gearbox get any oil. Mount the cooler down low to avoid drain-back.

This is a dry clutch 360 that intercepts between the pump and the galley - bit more that what you are doing but you get the idea.

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Random though travel faster in a vacuum - looks good on paper (computer screen anyway)

 

[mysta2]

The front of the fairing will of course be open, but it might be pretty tight on the sides (tight enough that I'm also worried about the carbon burning, wilting or discoloring)

Cross that bridge when I come to it is my usual atitude towards pretty much everything, but it will be a lot of work to redo. I'd prefer not to just drill a bunch of holes in my nice smooth fairing.

I lack both time and money, but that 350 motor is sweet. I want some of those collars! I'll definiately run it as is as soon as it's together, but it's nice to know that there are solutions out there if I need them.

 

[TheJones]

This may be overkill, or completely inapplicable, but you can insulate the fairing with Aerogel. Maybe add granulated aerogel to the fiberglass or something. It's easily purchased http://www.unitednuclear.com/aerogel.htm, or not as easily made http://www.hackaday.com/2008/03/23/make-your-own-aerogel/. But this would only help keep the fairing cool, not the engine.

 

[Tim]

Considering the number of full-fairing air-cooled race bikes from back in the day, I'd think you'll be fine. I'd imagine 99% of the air cooling the engine would be hitting it head on, which is of course where your fairing is open. I'd skip the cooling ducts, although they would serve to stiffen up the fairing.